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If you are talking about the CPR7EAIX-9 plug, the stock plug is CPR7EA-9, the only difference is the IX which stands for Iridium Tip. Plug is correct as shipped. Gap is shipped set to factory specs. If you feel they may have been dropped, Check gap for .035. Take the old one out and put the new one in, that simple.
Add to that you need to follow the install directions on the box, i.e. tighten 1/2 turn after the washer makes contact with the cylinder head.
 
Deal on CPR7EAIX-9's

Found CPR7EAIX-9 for $7.44 here. Amazon sells these for $9.49 After shipping and taxes you'll save about $4. Fiscal Cliff eh?..

Ordered two from the wholesale website. Will be putting them in next week, along with the oil change (going with Amsoil synthetic). Hopefully I'll end up with what will feel like brand new bike!
 
Found CPR7EAIX-9 for $7.44 here. Amazon sells these for $9.49 After shipping and taxes you'll save about $4. Fiscal Cliff eh?..

Ordered two from the wholesale website. Will be putting them in next week, along with the oil change (going with Amsoil synthetic). Hopefully I'll end up with what will feel like brand new bike!
Can't wait to hear the feedback on your impressions -- does it feel any different? (Honestly...)

I can tell you that when I switched from dino to synthetic, I could clearly feel it. It was noticeably smoother and somewhat quieter. I would have never said that you can feel the difference that much ("Oil is oil, right?" - not really...)

But I wonder if the "different" spark will be noticed.

Anyways, let us know.
 
Can't wait to hear the feedback on your impressions -- does it feel any different? (Honestly...)

But I wonder if the "different" spark will be noticed.

Anyways, let us know.
Most likely if the old plugs were not causing a misfire you will not feel any difference with the new plugs regardless the design. Indexing the plug so the electrode is not facing the intake valve has more benefit.
 
I am 100% ok if there's no difference in "feel" but I am all about the best for the machine. It seems that everyone is saying good things about this sp, so my hope is that upgrading to these will prolong the life of the engine.

They should be coming in early this week. Will keep you posted.

BM
 
.....my hope is that upgrading to these will prolong the life of the engine.

They should be coming in early this week. Will keep you posted.

BM
I'd love to know how that would/could be determined.:confused:
 
no way really i suppose, but one can always hope :)
I switched to these plugs from the standard plugs that had low miles on them, and I can tell you for a fact that there is no difference whatsoever, except for the fact that your pocket is now lighter. If you have really old, worn, or mis-firing plugs, then either these, or new stock plugs will improve things by the same amount. IR plugs are mostly hype. Sorry.
 
I'm coming up on 7500 miles so i have to replace spark plugs anyway according to owners manual. I'm not really sorry to be out twenty bucks in this situation.

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no way really i suppose, but one can always hope :)
I would say (and many will likely agree) that the "quality" of the spark ranks pretty low on the list of factors determining the longevity of the engine. I myself doubt that the spark quality is even on that list altogether in the first place...
 
well I'm finally getting around to write a post after replacing the spark plugs and dino oil with Amsoil synthetic. the difference is practically negligible, but I did notice that the low threshold for all gears got... well lower. meaning that the engine does not try to rattle to a stall when the speed is getting too low for any particular gear. I'd say it's a three - four Miles an hour difference with the "before." i don't feel any difference in power, but the engine does sound smoother. not sure if spark plugs or synthetic oil or both have to do with that.

I would also say that yes old plugs
were finished, so my original point stands - it was time for a tuneup.

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All stealerships will deny anyone makes a part that they don't sell, here in Dallas i was told KN does not make an oil filter for the 900, KN 303 works great have one on the bike now, and has a unique way to get the thing off, yes all KN products are pricey, was also told ROYAL PURPLE MAX CYCLE OIL will RUIN your clutch, YEA RIGHT, they don't sell it.

Don't believe anything the stealership tells you. They are not your friend, they just want your money.

Dawnrider: thanks for the info. What was the equivalence you found.
We are in your home town almost every year around May, spend way to much time at the "BLACK CAT":rolleyes: I will keep an eye peeled for you, that sweet scoot should not be hard to spot. ;)
Alot of times misinformation spreads from poor detective work on the shops part.

Guy comes in with a bike with a shot clutch. Couple thousand miles ago he switched to XYZ brand of oil (or to synthetic, etc.; but something still motorcycle specific). Conclusion from the shop guy? Oil did it. Shop guy knows non-motorcycle specific oil does that, but he hasn't taken the time to learn why, so he assumes any prematurely failed clutch is due to oil, and blames whatever in the crankcase.

It's usually better to do varied research. Most of your dealership shop techs are knowledgeable only about specific maintenance and repairs as they've come down from the manufacturers. Always ask why. If they say "I don't know it just does" or gives you an answer that sounds like bull, then look it up!
 
:confused:Dawnrider you posted that you use NGK Iridium # CPR7EAIX_9 plugs, Toymaker said he found NGK Iridium # CR7EIX plugs will work, are these the same plug? I have tried to find both these #s on the NGK web site and both say dose not exist. Where can I buy the correct NGK Iridium plug for my 2008 Vulcan 900 classic? Thanks for the info.:cool:
Stock CPR7EA-9 (stock no 3901)...
C=10mm thread, 5/8 (16mm) hex
P= projecting insulator type (spark is more in the center of combustion chamber)
R= resistor type. It won't mess up your radio.
7= heat range. NGK heat range is from 2 on the hot side to 11 on the cool.
E= Thread reach. 3/4 inch (19mm)
A= special design
-9= spark gap. .036" (0.9mm)

And looking at the 2012 NGK non-automotive catalog, it translates to a CPR7EAIX-9 (stock number 9198). Breaking this down...

C= 10mm thread, 5/8" (16mm) hex
P= Projecting insulator
R= Resistor type
7= heat range
E= 3/4" (19mm) thread reach
A= Special Design
IX= High performance Iridium
-9= .08mm/.032" gap
 
I bought a pair of these exactly one year ago for my 2012 vulcan classic 900. Now that I am getting a valve inspection I figured I'd have the shop put them in at the same time. And sure enough can't find out where they are anymore. The last thing I remember after seeing them with my motorcycle stuff for a year was I had better put them in a safe place IE: in the saddlebags or trunk so I don't loose them now. And, you guessed it, I lost them. So going back on Amazon I put in the # for the plugs and they give me a error message that it does not fit my model bike. I have had that before and Amazon was wrong then too. So before I order them I thought I'd throw that error message out to you guys to see your commenss. I have no rush on ordering them as I just went thru bladder cancer surgery and can't drive for around 5 weeks anyways
 
Good evening, sorry ....I'm new here! I have a question and a confusion, I have a Vulcan VN900 from 2016, and the book indicates two types of spark plugs: Spark plug 1: NGK CPR7EA-9 Spark plug 2: NGK CPR7EAIX-9 Can someone explain to me why they are different?
 
Good evening, sorry ....I'm new here! I have a question and a confusion, I have a Vulcan VN900 from 2016, and the book indicates two types of spark plugs: Spark plug 1: NGK CPR7EA-9 Spark plug 2: NGK CPR7EAIX-9 Can someone explain to me why they are different?
Welcome aboard!!
This post is from 2017 at the last response, you would do better getting responses if you just start a new post. That said,

Ones nickel, ones iridium.
Dan
 
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