Does anyone have a typical checklist that a person would progress through (the usual suspects) to figure out why there is no spark?

 

Do you have a meter and know how to use it?
No meter, we can help there too.

 

I do have a meter. I understand the simple basics. I appreciate any advice or wisdom.

 

You went from a carb engine to a FI engine. Did you convert the 1600 to use a carb?

 

Yes. I modified the FI engine to fit the carb from the 1500 on it.

 

When you converted to a single stator, did you also change the pickup coils that were original to the 1500 engine?

 

Originally people questioned why I didn't just put the dual stators and rotor in the 1600 but the gear behind the rotor didn't fit (the neck on the shaft had a shoulder on it).
I didn't get spark with the single stator and original pickups in the 1600 after I put it in the bike. But when I opened up the 1600 stator I saw there were metal shavings in there. So I figured that may be the problem. I switched over the entire stator, pickups and cover from my old bike. So long answer....Yes the original 1500 pickups next to the rotor are in the 1600 now.

 

I am a bit confused, when you got the 1600 engine, was it not complete with the stators and rotor. You are saying the "gear behind the rotor didn't fit", was this a different gear than the 1600 originally came with. What I am getting at is if the tab on the rotor is not perfectly aligned with the pickup coils, they will not function.

Another confusing item is if the 1600 was complete with both stators, you could either have added another regulator to your bike, or have just connected one stator.

Not trying to jump in where sfair has started, but I have a first test for you.

With your volt meter in DC position, connect negative lead to battery negative. At ignition coils, connect positive lead to red wire, either coil, they are parallel,
turn on ignition switch and read voltage. Not cranking, just switch on.

 

Sorry for the confusion. When I bought the 1600 engine to replace my 1500 it only had a single stator and rectifier. My 1500 classic had 2. I was told to make wiring easier I could take the complete dual setup out of my old 1500 and put the whole works into the 1600. It didn't fit....So I had to leave a single stator in the 1600.
But once I had the 1600 open I could see the stator was worn.....So I left the rotor but put my stator and pickups from the 1500 in it instead. So the 1600 still has a single.

 

Hopefully my explanation made sense.
I will check your test this evening when I get home.

 

I connected to the red lead into the coil and black to battery negative and I get nothing. 0.0000

 

Okay. I will try again tomorrow a second time and see if I get better results than last time.

 

You did this with the ignition switch in the on position, correct. If so go to the junction box and check the fuse marked ignition. It is a 10amp fuse.

 

Yes I just turned the key to the on position. I checked the fuse the other day and it is okay.

 

Are you sure the stop engine switch is in the run position?

Going back to post 12, did you connect the meter red wire to the ignition coil red wire to read the voltage?

 

Yes. If I switch it to off the starter won't run

 

Yes. Connected black to battery neg and red to coil red input tab.

 

When you first turn the ignition switch on can you hear the fuel pump run?

 

I believe I hear it run. Hard to hear over the starter. I do know that even with a full charge sometimes the starter cranks fine but once in a while it seems a bit anemic. That may be an unrelated problem. I checked the ground and it seems solid.

 

You should be able to hear it run for approx. 4sec, when you turn the switch on, not pressing the start button. I am concerned that there is no power to the coils as they are powered by the same supply wire as the fuel pump. I would remove the fuel tank and look for a plug that is disconnected. Follow the wire from the coil & red wire from the fuel pump to find the plug. If the fuel pump is running, there is a break in the wire going to the coils.

 

You should be able to hear it run for approx. 4sec, when you turn the switch on, not pressing the start .

Fuel pump only runs when start button pushed or engine running.

 

Would I be able to feel it run by touching it? Or is there a way to use the multimeter to see if the pump is running as well?

 

Same wire that supplies voltage to the coils is the same that supplies voltage to the fuel pump, so most likely if you have no voltage at coils, there will be none to fuel pump. At this point, I would disconnect wire that goes to starter, (large wire at terminal on starter), turn start switch on, press start button, and you will hear and or be able to feel if pump is running.

 

I disconnected the starter. The fuel pump is getting power.

 

I checked for continuity between the ignitor black/green and black to both coils. They are fine. Checked the red between both coils and the fuel pump and they have continuity.

So what else....Bad coils? Bad ignitor? Could the position of the rotor and pickups be off in some way and keeping it from sparking?

 

Once again, take your meter, make sure it is on DC Volts, connect negative to battery, and positive to red lead on coils, ignition switch on, and check for voltage.
If you do not have voltage at coils, bike will not run.

 

I haven't had time to do the same test again (and hope for different results). But if I get no power at the coils when I check again tonight/tomorrow ....what is the next thing I should look at? What else would cause no voltage at the coils?

bad cdi/igniter, or would the position of the rotor matter? I know there were 2 marks that you line up and I think it is correct when I assembled it but it could be wrong. I am trying to eliminate all possibilities.