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I used M6-1.0 x 6mm long set screws because I had some.
These would probably be better though. http://coburnmyers.thomasnet.com/it...-stainless-button-head-socket-cap-screws-iso-7380-/-6c8kbc-a2-70-31631?&seo=110
The button head has a low enough profile that they will not catch and tear out, and you can torque them. The only thing holding my set screws in place is the friction of the threads. I do not see them backing out any time soon though. I used a pneumatic grease gun with a flex hose because I do not have a motorcycle jack to lift the bike high enough to use anything else.
 
I crawled under mine today and sure enough the middle one is gone. I did notice while checking the grease fittings, I had a white residue coming from a hole under the motor. I dont know if this is an overflow hole or what. It maybe antifreeze, not sure but for sure something has ran through this hole. Does anyone else have this and what is it?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
After some deliberating, I changed my original plan. I went with SS hex head bolts with lock washers. The bolts were M6-1.0 and they were 10mm long. This worked perfectly and does not seem to be long enough to interfere with the shaft going through the housing. I figured that you aren't going to kit them that often and when you do, it will just scrape the top of the hex head. You will still be able to get a wrench on it to remove it later.

Also, I decided not to change the front zerk out. It is pretty well hidden where it sits. I figure if I hit bottom hard enought to knock that one out, I have way more serious issues. Like the guard rail I am wrapped around.

Lastly, I have a basic hardware store grease gun with flex hose. I was able to hold the fitting end of the hose in place with one hand and squeeze the pump handle against the floor with the other hand.

Good luck to all you ZERK PIRATES!
 
Zerk Pirates...hahaha

Didn't find any at my local hardware store.....I'll hit "Canadian Tire" next and see if they have bolts that will fit
 
Alright, I haven't taken the grease fittings out yet to check if it is well greased or not (still looking for a bolt to replace it with), but is there a certain amount of grease that you should put through it if it appears dry?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Alright, I haven't taken the grease fittings out yet to check if it is well greased or not (still looking for a bolt to replace it with), but is there a certain amount of grease that you should put through it if it appears dry?
I don't know the actual amount, but most everyone seems to find the grease cavities to be almost empty when they start putting grease in. From greasing tractors and fittings on trucks back home, I am used to squeezing in 1-2 pumps of grease from a normal grease gun (not the baby sized ones). I bet I put 3-5 pumps in each fitting on my bike. That tells me it was empty. Grease can't compress. So if the pump handle is moving down and grease is not squirting out someplace else, then there must be empty space for the grease to fill inside the housing. I would just pump until you feel some back pressure on the pump handle. It is possible squeeze until you actually shoot grease out the sides of the housing where the shaft sticks out. I know there is an oil seal inside there so this may not be a great idea, but as long as it is greasy, it won't squeak. As I said in an earlier post, there is almost no rotation and absolutely no excessive heat at this fitting, so it is not critical to have it just perfect.
 
ok, found the bolts the same as Jeep pirate and washers all at Crappy Tire.

Bought a tube of white lithium grease, which I will squeeze into the holes after I have removed the zerks, as I don't have a grease gun.
Hope this will work
 
I found the bolts, but I couldn't find the button head ones that have a lower profile. Hex head will have to do. If they scrape, they should survive a little better than the grease fittings.
 
Did the fix this morning.
Noticed the bolts would not tighten really tight.
Maybe stripped the thread a little? metal of the rocker could be a bit soft.
Went for a 3 hour ride today to Barrie and around.
I'll have a look under the bike tomorrow and see how it's holding up.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Yeah, metal of the rocker is cast aluminum from what I can tell. The only thing softer would be lead! Take it easy when tightening the replacement screws. Especially if there was thread damage already from ripping out the zerk on a speed bump. The good thing is that if you do strip it out badly, aluminum is easy to drill and tap for a larger size. That is once you get the bike high enough off the ground to use a drill under it.
 
Found my 2007 LT bone dry. pumped in some grease and put in the 6mm X1 hex head bolts. I can't believe the factory doesn't grease these bikes.
 
Well, I greased it up and swapped my bottom two grease fittings out (not worrying about the other one since it is so much higher) with stainless steel hex head bolts and lock washers. They don't have a smaller profile but should at least hold up better if they do drag across a speed bump or something.
 
Yep, mine too! Middle one gone.......fun trip to the dealership......last time I go.
 
Checked my 07 with 5K and all was good. Didn't want to push my luck so I replaced the lower 2 fittings with hex head bolts................
 
Both my 07 Custom and my brothers were delivered dry. I would think the dealer would add grease as part of the prep but not so.
 
Two outa three were gone on mine. Kind of wierd, but the threads were still good, almost like they just fell out. Just like everyone else the joints were in bad need of grease. Bone dry. Greased them up and put in cap screws.
 
One of these grease fitting strings should become a sticky.
 
I broke off my middle one about 4 months ago. I got lucky in that the remaining threaded part came out on its own over time. I'm going to get the screws today with a grease gunwith a flex hose on it. I've already got some basic high temp generic grease.
 
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