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Discussion Starter #1
First, does anyone know the name of the idiot engineer who made the lowest point on the bike a grease fitting into cast aluminum? If I can find him, he is due an ass whooping!:mad:

Second, after someone has gone over a speed bump and thereby ripped this silly fitting out of its casting, what do you do? I assume I could spend an astronomical amount of money at a repair shop having the whole rocker arm replaced. But honestly, I don't really want another rocker with the same stupid design flaw. I am thinking of trying to re-tap the hole and just put in a worm screw plug. Any advise would be great. Maybe some of you guys with newer models can tell me if they fixed this on your bike. Mine is an '07. I know they fixed the phillips head screw on the air filter on the newer bikes by making it an allen head.
 

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I know there's two of them down there and I believe the front one on mine is gone as well (and I'd be willing to bet that more people have lost it than have it). Hmmmmm... time for a google search on this matter...
 

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I'm with you guys. The first time i noticed the fittings down there i thought "Now that's stupid. Any big bump or curb and those are history."

I guess if you can't back them out, you'd have to drill and tap. Bummer.
 

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Usually, the zerk is just knocked out and not broken off - very common (unfortunately). Go to the local parts store and pick up some metric replacement zerks - then flush out the fitting till fresh grease oozes out everywhere!. Then, remove the zerk and replace with a allen head replacement screw that fits flush in the hole. These are available at many hardware stores - Ace included. Problem solved! When you need to add grease - wash, rinse, repeat!
 

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Usually the nipple just broke off. Remove the threaded portion with an EZ Out. I pulled all my grease fittings and replaced with a metric set screw ( I think that they are 4mm). The set screw should sit flush with the casting. When you need to grease the bearings, jut replace the screw with a zerk, grease the bearing, then replace the set screw.
 

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Now that is some good advice! Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the advise guys. But I do still have one issue. My front and rear fittings are okay and I can do the set screw swap easily enough. However, my middle fitting is the one that has been ripped out. From what I can tell, the threads in the aluminum casting broke completely out of the hole because the zerk is steel and therefore it's threads didn't break first. The old fitting will just slide in and out of the old hole now. I am wondering if there is enough depth to the hole to run a tap set into so that I can go up a size of zerk fitting?
 

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JP, Me Too!

I lost mine on a speed bump. At my last service, the tech said that when the Zerk broke, it toke metal with it. It would have to be drilled and tapped, and new zerk, and fill in the difference with JB Weld. His price, $75 per hour. And this will never gaurantee that it will not happen again. This is the down fall of buying bikes from a place that big guys weigh 150.

You could look at one of the lowering kits, if you want a little lowerer stance, plus they have sealed joints, I think.

As soon as I get an EZ Out set, I am going to try one of the above fixes.
 

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type of grease

First, does anyone know the name of the idiot engineer who made the lowest point on the bike a grease fitting into cast aluminum? If I can find him, he is due an ass whooping!:mad:

Second, after someone has gone over a speed bump and thereby ripped this silly fitting out of its casting, what do you do? I assume I could spend an astronomical amount of money at a repair shop having the whole rocker arm replaced. But honestly, I don't really want another rocker with the same stupid design flaw. I am thinking of trying to re-tap the hole and just put in a worm screw plug. Any advise would be great. Maybe some of you guys with newer models can tell me if they fixed this on your bike. Mine is an '07. I know they fixed the phillips head screw on the air filter on the newer bikes by making it an allen head.
Hi, I'm trying to check the grease on this fittings and I have a can of "hevron High load carrying capacity Ultra Duty grease EP NLGI 2 ". I'm almost sure that it 'll OK, but just want to make sure.
If anybody knows for sure please let know. \

Thanks.
Likin'the forum. Kind of new still ...
 

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Hi, I'm trying to check the grease on this fittings and I have a can of "hevron High load carrying capacity Ultra Duty grease EP NLGI 2 ". I'm almost sure that it 'll OK, but just want to make sure.
If anybody knows for sure please let know. \

Thanks.
Likin'the forum. Kind of new still ...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am not sure what Chevron EPNLG "whatever" grease is supposed to be. But any basic axle grease should be fine. There is practically no rotation on these axles and there is also no heat. Just so long as it is slick and sticky, you should be fine.

Now for those of you trying to replace your zerks with worm screws. The fitting is an M6-1.0 pitch thread. I would use a 5 or 6 mm long screw. If you can find them, I would also use stainless steel. Fastenal.com has them for about 50 cents each. But you may have to buy a minimum since this is an industrial website. If anyone knows someone who hasn't broke their fittings yet or is buying a new VN900, I recommend doing the swap now before you crack the cast aluminum housing like I did. I think I will post a new thread as a warning to anyone reading.
 

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HEY, HOW YOU GUYS DOIN" ???
Just wanna thnxs for the quick response. Found out two of those fitting were dry.
Also tryng to get my hands on the maintenance/ service manual. If somebody knows where to get it online/
Thanks.
Ride safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
HEY, HOW YOU GUYS DOIN" ???
Just wanna thnxs for the quick response. Found out two of those fitting were dry.
Also tryng to get my hands on the maintenance/ service manual. If somebody knows where to get it online/
Thanks.
Ride safe.
Depending on they type person you are as to where you can get the service manual online. You can search Amazon or even one of the aftermarket parts sites to find the official version for your speicific year model, etc. Those usually run about $20+. The other option is to search a site like bit trader that has a version of a 2006 VN900B service manual for about $3. I didn't ask where it came from of if it was all legal like, but the book seems pretty complete to me. In the end, if it wasn't everything I wanted, I figured I could go to my grave in peace over wasting 3 bucks. Good luck.
 

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Hey, I'm the kind that will go for the $ 3 bucks.....But, it's the same for the 2008 model???. If not how many differences can I find. ?? I guess for $ 3 bucks , I'll give it a try anyways.

Thnxs.

Safe ride!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey, I'm the kind that will go for the $ 3 bucks.....But, it's the same for the 2008 model???. If not how many differences can I find. ?? I guess for $ 3 bucks , I'll give it a try anyways.

Thnxs.

Safe ride!!
I have an '07, but from reading the forum, I get the feel that Kawasaki didn't make any real changes until '09. I suggest putting up a new thread to see what owners of newer versions say.
Good luck!
 

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So, I read this thread on Monday. I'm just shy of the 2000 mile mark on my LT, so I'm thinking I'll hurry and remove the zerks before a speed bump does. I picked up three set screws grabbed my grease gun and climbed under the bike to take care of business. I'll be darned if the middle one isn't already AWOL. Fortunately there was enough good threads left to grease her her up and install the set screw. I haven't done any curb hopping, or hit any speed bumps, so I have no idea where or when the zerk went missing. There was also very little grease as some of you have stated. Best all climb under your bikes before it's too late. Great thread guys!
 

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Can someone post a link to the exact bolt that you are replacing the zerks with? When I do a search there are numerous ones that come up that all are slightly different. I appreciate the assistance.

Additionally, this is my first bike and will be the first time that I have crawled under it to do the maintenance on it. I have performed maintenance on trucks before (i.e. swap out a radiator, etc.) but have never changed the oil or greased anything before. Which grease gun do you recommend for the bike? I know that a grease gun is a grease gun, but some have a flexible hose or other various features.
 

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I used one with the flexible hose on it. And asked about the kind of grease, but regular grease is what I had, so there you go..Looking forward to find out the size of the bolts, I guess alem heads will be best.
 
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