Hey forum people, for anyone interested, I have an update on this cooling issue, I do not think you will believe the bad luck I am having with this.

So I ordered a brand new radiator from a dealer, installed it, everything worked very well. Then about 2 weeks after that, I noticed the brand new radiator is leaking, it's leaking from the coils I can see it spurt out when the bike is running.

I call the dealer, already extremely disappointed that my season is now over, and they tell me since I put a kawasaki part on a suzuki bike (even though it is CLEARLY the same bike and the suzuki part is discontinued) they cannot make a claim and get me a new one. My only way out would be to use someone else's kawasaki VIN number, which I obviously don't have.

Like I said, I honestly cannot believe it, I'm throwing my money at these dealers and companies and they won't budge to give me any kind of help.

 

I would find a way to recheck the compression with a different tester. Perhaps a friend would have one or if necessary go to a friendly repair garage and pay to have the test run.

 

Ok great info as usual thanks guys. I did warm up the bike but then let it cool for about 10 minutes, which is supposed was normal, nobody wants to remove burning hot spark plugs haha.

I looked into the KACR system, maybe it does not function as it should, but to really verify them requires opening up the engine, and I just want to try to enjoy the couple weeks of the season for now (hopefully I get the new radiator and install it before next weekend). So for now I will not worry about the high compression, from my understanding the compression release is to help the engine start, but mine starts just fine lately no need to hold the starter longer than it should, it cranks well.

 

Did you warm the bike up good before doing the compression test? You could get high results (not that high, but high) if you did it cold. A cheap gauge could give somewhat erroneous results, but again, not that much, I wouldn't think.

There is a troubleshooting guide after the compression tests in the manual and at the end of the manual. Carbon buildup or the KACR system (compression release for low rpms) might not be working. For many bikes, 120 psi would not be all that high, but these bikes use low compression. I'm not sure if it would be a concern.

 

Hey guys, it's the OP here back with an update!

So I decided to get the radiator fixed at a shop where the welded the aluminum at the bottom, the guy told me it passed his pressure test after. I considered replacing multiple components such as the cap and hoses, but I have very little riding season left, so I decided to pop the radiator back on and fill the system and test it, after all I did run the bike with a dry radiator so I didn't feel too bad testing a bit with a full one.

It fixed my previous issues, the bike would restart great even when hot, and I also saw the radiator fan turn on for the first time which was nice and kind of points towards the coolant thermostat still functioning properly. So all seemed well, until I found another micro leak somewhere else around the weld, I think the guy at the shop screwed me and didn't test the pressure now to be honest.

However the fact that it ran well convinced me I'll order a new radiator even if the price is very high.
For about the 10-15km I rode it, I did not notice any change in the oil level, and I opened back the radiator cap tonight and it's still full so I don't believe my engine is eating up the coolant/mixing it up with the oil.

The QUESTION I have now (yes another one), is that my compression test gave me surprising results. I got exactly 120psi on both cylinders. It is nice to get the same reading on both, but the manual states the results should be 50-85psi so it's surprisingly high. It is a cheap tester I just bought though so maybe that's a reason for the sketchy reading.

Before I replace the radiator, cap, etc. does anyone think those compression test results are anything to worry about?

THANKS AGAIN

 

I would suspect the compression release.
None the less the readings being the same for both cylinders is great...as deteriorating health usually varies across cylinders..this shows a healthy system more than likely even if the guage isn't accurate...as health seldom deteriorates equally across cylinders..

 

Very relieved! I did a drain of the coolant and to my relied, prob 2 quarts of coolant drained out. I followed the service manual and loaded it up in addition to the side resevoir which was empty. Started up and let her run for awhile until the fan came on and ensured the reserve tank is at the F line. Think im good in the coolant department now

 

OK, this thread has gotten confused. I thought you were the OP and had determined that there was zero coolant in the system. I see now that you joined discussing your own problem. That coolant looks pretty clean, so I guessing it has been changed in the last year or so. If that's the case, you need to find out why it got low. Change the cap, look for leaks, etc. and watch the levels for a while. A new cap might fix it.

 

Its like a car - you trust that the system is working right.
And you do maintenance and do checks to make sure it IS working.
Unlike a car, you cant let the system go until it does fails, because of a rad cap under the gas tank, ect...
But a bad cooling system doesnt happen with a newer engine, it takes years and miles to go bad.

If you can put your hand on the hose long enough, because its hot, you might be able to tell the coolant is flowing. I say might be able to.
Try it on your car/truck first and you'll see how hard that is.
The amount of flow isnt what is necessary to know. Its knowing that the system is working!
It might take awhile to check everything and make sure its all fine!

 

To add to this: you can get a cheap infrared thermometer and monitor the heat in various areas with that, especially radiator, but also the area around the filler neck, hoses, etc.. After running 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the ambient temp, the thermostat should open and hot coolant should migrate to the radiator. If it doesn't, then you know you probably either have a faulty thermostat or a bad water pump.

 

Ok great explanations everyone thank you it does all make sense to me now.
I will report back with my later fixes.

I have an idea, I thought it would be nice to replace one of the main coolant hoses to the radiator with a see-through hose, however it does not really seem to be available on the market (I would tube vinyl tubing obviously). My thinking here is that I could at least see that there is always a good amount of coolant, and could confirm that it does flow-through with the engine running.

Otherwise, if there is a leak, it seems the only way to check your coolant level is to remove the tank and check under the radiator cap, since I now learned I can't rely on the level of the overflow tank. This is quite inconvenient obviously, and you would need to bleed the system before closing it again.

Are there other easy ways to check that a good amount of coolant flows through, for example if you touch the hose while it's running would you feel coolant movement, or would you feel that the hose is very hot?

All my previous bikes were air-cooled.

 

The water pumps on these are very low in the system is the reason you were able to run very low.
Sucking out of the recovery tank requires a good cap...I have seen new caps that did not work proper or cars as the rivet didn't seal proper.
There is a little valve on the cap that hangs down a little...while the engine is warming up it will let out a small amount of air pressure if its low before that valve is pushed against the rubber...when the engine cools it develops a vacuum...as the engine had let off some pressure earlier...the gasket on the radiator cap that seals the lip cant leak as you cant pull out of the tank .if you have a the rivet through the top of the cap it has to be airtight ...then you are able to pull coolant from the recovery tank..the really only work on small leaks ...as the vacuum is just as willing to pull air through a hole in the radiator for example.
If your leak is up high...then when you shut it off you have air or steam leaving the system and may never develop a vacuum
A down flow radiator closes the valve on the cap sooner that a cross flow radiator while warming up...most cars have cross flow radiators...the cap on a cross flow is on the water pump inlet side of the radiator...a down flow is on the water pump outlet side.
Downflows tend to perform better under low coolant conditions as the coolant goes through more of the tubes in the radiator..dribbling across several tubes.
A cross flow will start utilizing only the bottom ones due to gravity.


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The pressure caused by a hot engine / hot coolant forces the coolant out of the engine and into the overflow tank.
Then as the engine cools the system takes the coolant out of the overflow and back into the engine.
The system works as designed when the coolant level is full up to the radiator cap.

If you have a leak, say the radiator cap, the coolant will still be forced out but only up to a point of how much expansion there is,
but the reverse would be to suck air back in and not coolant from the tank.
Then you would find when you open the radiator cap, a coolant level below the top, and a overflow tank at or over full.

 

Thanks, i picked up coolant yesterday and plan to do a drain and empty of the water pump and then fill following the service manual instructions.. hoping that coolant does in fact drain out and was perhaps just low and not actually empty, will report back.

 

Oh boy.. just checked mine and wth no coolant in the overflow.. i did put my finger in the radiator opening and felt slight residue from coolant, so hoping im ok.. plan to add green coolant (silica free) to the radiator and fill the overflow to the cold position.
I did ride her close to 100 miles till this point in 90+ degree days and no overheating issue, hoping i dont have to add that to my fix list.. (sorry to hijack a bit)

 

Don't go by color. While some mfg do sort of stick to a color scheme, there is no standard for coolant type by color. Make sure the coolant is OAT or Dex Cool (50/50 premix or mix your own from concentrate and distilled water).

You may be lucky and just be low, but have enough in the system to cool enough to prevent overheating. If it were me, at a minimum, I'd do a flush with an alkaline auto coolant flush at this point and then add the new coolant. Doing a complete system check would be better. You lost coolant. You could have a leak or some other problem.

 

You can not rely on the radiator drawing in coolant from the tank.
When the engine is in the process of heating up it builds up pressure...when it cools down..you may have zero pressure or a vacuum..the vacuum is just as happy to pull in air from a hole in the coolant system vs suck coolant from the tank.
If the little valve on the radiator cap doesn't drop after the engine cools ..you won't end up with a vacuum anyway.
Onto that engine...if it runs fine then you probably didn't hurt it...you may have scuffed up the sides of the pistons though as they expanded and pressed up against the bores..if power felt decent and she did indeed idle..should be ok as long as you didn't crack the head.
Anyway...cobble up that radiator to perform a leak test..you can also bypass the radiator by using hose...pipe-hose combinations when the cap isn't on the radiator itself...rent a pressure tester from an auto parts store..pump her up to 15 pounds or so...if she leaks you can hear where its coming from.
As said if she runs fine..then its probably ok..miracles can and do happen on occasion.....take the blessing and roll with it.

 

Thank you guys, great advice. I already have the manual, I never buy a bike without it!
I just did an oil change, there was nothing abnormal with the old oil, hopefully that is a good sign. I will do a compression test soon.

So if I understand correctly from Sabre-t's comment, the radiator cap did not do it's job correctly, and the valves should have drawn in more coolant if there was no pressure inside the radiator? Or is it normal for a dry radiator to not have any suction pulling in coolant from the reserve coolant tank?

 

So if I understand correctly from Sabre-t's comment, the radiator cap did not do it's job correctly, and the valves should have drawn in more coolant if there was no pressure inside the radiator? Or is it normal for a dry radiator to not have any suction pulling in coolant from the reserve coolant tank?

Not exactly. I'm saying replace the cap even if it was not the problem. It's a cheap consumable. If the system was dry, there could be all sorts of problems, the original problem(s) (leaks, pressure loss, etc.) and those caused by low to dry coolant and heat (worn water pump, crap in the system, etc.).
The cap could have been the problem, but somehow I doubt it since you found that putty on the radiator. I suspect that "fix" didn't and was at least part of the issue with coolant loss.

 

Replace the radiator cap. They are considered to be consumables and should be replaced for the very reason you asked.

As Tourer said, DO NOT USE STOP LEAK product in your cooling system. It doesn't matter if it is a car, truck, motorcycle, or whatever. The only time it might be acceptable to use these products is if the vehicle is on it's last legs and you need to keep it going for a short time before hauling it to the junkyard.

Tourer's other advice is good, too. If you choose to repair rather than replace the radiator, make sure the shop has the equipment to do the job right. A hot vat for cleaning and a water tank for leak testing. Considering how much repair would cost, I think replacement would be a better option.

My suggestion is to do the compression and leak down first. They don't require a running engine. If you are satisfied with those results, then address the cooling system. Use the manual for your bike linked in Tourer's post. I would check everything. Water pump and impellor, thermostat, look for leaks, pressure test the system, etc. If everything is working to your satisfaction, then fill with water and do a system flush with a good, alkaline auto cooling system flush (not vinegar) following the product directions. Then replace the radiator, cap, and thermostat at a minimum. And, of course, coolant. Personally, I would replace all of the cooling system hoses and o-rings, too. If you are going to do it, do it right.

Testing and flushing and replacing the cap and thermostat before buying and putting in a new radiator is going to be more cost effective than putting a new radiator on first, should there be other, significant and unresolvable or very costly issues.

 

Unhappy to hear you are experiencing this issue with your new ride.
There isn’t any definitive way to determine if the engine substained damage unless it is started or taken apart but can do some testing. Would recommend a compression check or cylinder leak down test for starters. Cylinder leak down tool is inexpensive from Harbor Freight. If it is good, have the radiator repaired, replace the thermostat, temperature sensor, and coolant. You didn’t mention your mileage? Did you check the oil for cross contamination from the coolant? It will be brown and possibly foamy. If that has happened, could be bad news.
If the radiator cannot be repaired, look for a used one at the motorcycle salvage yards in your area or eBay. Below is a search for yards in your area. The radiator part number was 39060-0002 and was superseded to 39060-0019. Have listed all the years and models this radiator was used to help in your search for a used unit.
Also below is a link to download the factory repair manual.
Do NOT add any additives or sealers to the cooling system or the engine oil. The cooling and oil passageways in motorcycles are much narrower that automobiles. Sealers might block these. Get the system working properly and it shouldn’t need any additives.
Post back if anything is unclear or if you have additional concerns. The members here will be happy to help.

ASSEMBLIES WHERE 39060-0002 IS USED

• 2003 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600-A1) - Radiator
• 2004 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600-A2) - Radiator
• 2004 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600-B1) - Radiator
• 2005 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600-A3) - Radiator
• 2005 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600-B2) - Radiator
• 2005 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600-D1) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600E6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600F6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600G6F) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A7F) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A7FA) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B7F) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B7FA) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D7F) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D7FA) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A8F) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A8FA) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B8F) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B8FA) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D8F) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D8FA) - Radiator

ASSEMBLIES WHERE 39060-0019 IS USED

• 2005 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600-D1) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600E6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600F6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D6F) - Radiator
• 2006 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600G6F) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A7F) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A7FA) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B7F) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B7FA) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D7F) - Radiator
• 2007 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D7FA) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A8F) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC (VN1600A8FA) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B8F) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 MEAN STREAK (VN1600B8FA) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D8F) - Radiator
• 2008 VULCAN 1600 NOMAD (VN1600D8FA) - Radiator

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KAWASAKI VN1600 MEAN STREAK SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Kawasaki VN1600 MEAN STREAK service manual online. VN1600 MEAN STREAK motorcycle pdf manual download. Also for: Vulcan 1600 mean streak, Vulcan 1600, Vn1600.

www.manualslib.com

 

I'm sorry to hear of your troubles. I am in a similar boat with a newly purchased 03 Meanstreak only my issues are a severely rusted cruddy tank which im working on cleaning now. I know they sell coolant repair stop-leak treatments in a bottle and wondering if perhaps that may be a good first step in your case... remove the fuel tank, pour in a bottle of stop-leak and then top off with new coolant and see if that does the trick for you with the assumption that the repair in the radiator has a small hole that the coolant leaked out of.