So... looks like some digging I may have answered my own question... it seems by this thread below that once the relay is installed it turns all the accessory connectors 'live'...

In particular it says:

"once you add the relay, you should trigger all the accessory connectors on the bike, I believe there are a couple around the bike behind the headlights and under the seat/Tank"

That leads me to understand now I find the appropriate crimp connector end for that aux light's ACC yellow wire and connect it to the bikes ACC lead wire, shrink wrap them together and then connect the other red/black leads to the battery terminals directly... and Voila? Im done?

Using the Accessory spare connectors under the seat

Hi Everyone, For my Vulcan S 2020, I added the factory relay and connected the OEM USB charger to the accessory connector behind the headlight. I know once you add the relay, you should trigger all the accessory connectors on the bike (I believe there are a couple around the bike behind the...

www.vulcanforums.com

 

Annnnd found this pic. So apparently there's two wires on all the Vulcan S' installed accessory leads.

But only one wire in the aux light product picture... (besides the red/black battery terminal connectors)

Suggestions? bc I'll have a unused wire coming from the Vulcan acc

 

The light's red wire goes to the battery positive. The black to the negative and acts as the ground for both sides of the light circuits. The bare ended wire is the trigger side and plugs into one of the accessory plugs in the bottom picture. I'm not sure how the 650 accessory wires are set up, but it is likely one is positive and one is the ground. You will need to determine which is which with a meter or by color using a wiring diagram. They both may be positive, but I'm not sure about how they are set up for the 650. Add a connector to the yellow wire (probably a bullet connector) and plug into the positive accessory wire.

The accessory circuit is key on powered on most models. The light kit you have apparently has a built in relay. The accessory circuit triggers that relay allowing power to the lights directly from the battery when the accessory circuit gets power.

 

Thanks. I understand the battery red/black connections.

So one of these 4mm bullet connectors is added to the yellow wire and that gets plugged into the green socket. But then what about that other gold tipped wire coming out from next to the green socket wire? That just gets taped over and left alone?

I should get a meter to make sure its the green socket that gets used...

https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-non-automotive/electrical-wire-connector/p/dorman-conduct-tite-16-14-gauge-male-bullet-terminal-20-piece/166010_0_0?spps.s=5437&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ELC:19486091402&&CATARGETID=120054150001289087&CADevice=m

 

Finally found it in the manual (they don't make it easy) ... so for the next poor sap that comes along lol

No info on the load max.

 

Finally found it in the manual (they don't make it easy) ... so for the next poor sap that comes along lol

No info on the load max.

View attachment 265768

It's right there at the bottom of the table: 2 A max on the accessory circuits. That's 2 A on all of the accessory plugs combined, not 2 A on each plug, btw. It probably has a 5 A fuse. No doubt, the charging system can handle more than this, but that is not published information. How much more? I can't tell you that.

 

Oops, doh! Yep. Right there in front of me.. I guess I was thinking it'd be separately listed PER acc connection.

But so the dang lights I got (60 Watts) have too much wattage Grrr...

So the MOST wattage I can run is 24W --which means 12.5 Watts each light?

And that means NO other accessories running?

 

It means Kawasaki says 25W max additional load. Doesn't matter if it's twenty five 1W loads or one 25W load. 25W is 25W.

 

If I got a bigger battery? And a better alternator? Could I run the 60 W?

 

The 2A/24W is the total for the accessory circuits. Using the accessory as a trigger only draws a few milliamps on the accessory circuit. The lights are actually not being powered by the accessory circuit with the setup you have.

The charging system should be able to handle a bit more than that, but I don't know how much more. Bike mfgs are very stingy with that information. I would guess that an additional 60W is probably borderline. At the least, you should be monitoring your battery voltage, if you use those lights, to make sure it's being charged properly. A handlebar mounted volt meter could help with that.

A bigger battery won't really help. It would only delay discharging below usable volts. It's the charging system you need to worry about. If the charging system can't keep up with the power usage, the battery will eventually be drained. It would just take a little longer with a bigger battery.

There are aftermarket stators that provide more Watts for some bikes than the OEM stators. You would have to contact an aftermarket maker of stators and ask them if their stators provide more power than the OEM for the KVS. I would not go that route, though. Don't go messing with the stator unless you have to.

 

Thanks... I guess where I started thinking I could get away with the 60W was reading this link ...

So how strong auxiliary lights can I connect?

followed by a reply to his post below -- so I switched my tungsten headlights to LED along with all the turn signals.

It's ok to try it anyways?... like I won't blow anything right?

Looking into "A handlebar mounted volt meter" you mentioned.

Vulcan S Accessory Power Calculations

Yeah, I know...but I'm an engineer [emoji849] Thanks to the admittedly small alternator there are only a 25W of accessories you can add to the Vulcan S (per the manual)...so I did the "power budget" you see below. Remember, exceeding the 25W limit means the alternator might not be able to...

www.vulcanforums.com

 

Welp... if nothing else I am determined to learn. 🤣 Looking up I see on ebay they call it ALL these things combined; OEM STATOR GENERATOR ALTERNATOR MAGNETO. then looking for a better one I found they go all the way up to 34, 38, 40 even 50amp..👀



Google said this:

Q: Is it OK to use a higher amp alternator?

A: As you add up your accessories' draw, keep in mind you can never have too much amperage. That's because amperage is basically the amount of electrical current your alternator can supply. High-output alternators will not harm your components or charging system, no matter how high you go with the amps.

 

Briefly looking over the thread you referenced, I'm not sure how that convinced you that you could run these lights.

If you feel confident that you can change the stator, go for it. It's not that hard, but there are things that can go wrong. Sometimes they come bad out of the box, but people think they have done something wrong and drive themselves crazy trying to figure it out. If you get a new stator, at least do the resistance checks before you install it. Could save you having to take it back out and have the bike sit until a replacement arrives. Once installed, make sure it passes all of the tests. Sometimes you get oil leaks if you don't seal around the wires correctly. You might want to get a beefier regulator/rectifier, too. Pulling more current will make the OEM run even hotter than it already does and could burn it out.

If you have already replaced the headlight with an LED headlight, that may or may not have freed up some electrical capacity. Not all LED headlights use less power than incandescent, so check to make sure the one you have or plan to get actually draws less power. Changing the brake lights to LED won't save you much unless they are brake+running lights. Same for turn signals. They are not typically on long enough to make much difference unless they also act as running lights or you sit for long times waiting for traffic lights.

 

Yeah, that thread was before knowing that there was a 2A max on any connector. Back then I thought "well if he's running a 60W so I should be able too if I switched out tungsten for LED."

I guess rather than continue wearing myself out with this mess, potentially screw things up with the bike -- just accept these lights won't work --return them and move on.

But I'll say again -- what a seriously crappy and frail electric system can't even handle a 60W aux light.

Thanks for the kindly help and generous info.!!

 

The KVS is unusual for a cruiser. Most have quite a bit of overhead for accessories. The KVS is basically a sport bike base redesigned to be a cruiser. Sport bikes generally don't have much overhead for accessories, and this was carried over when they designed the KVS. It's not crappy or frail, just not what you would normally find in a cruiser.

 

Oh well... Had I known... I would have opted for a different bike. I'm the type I revolt on restrictions.

Bike for sale in 3... 2... 1... hahah

Found these. highly rated for brightness

Amazon.com

But they require a harness and fuse I guess.

Just ordered this service manual... so that'll be some help... over long term. Maybe wear less people out here..

2017-2022 Kawasaki Vulcan S / ABS / Café Part# 99832-0008-04 service shop repair manual

DIY self service dealership OEM factory manufacturer save money fix troubleshoot quality money back genuine how to learn diagnose

www.service-shop-repair-manual.com

 

Oh well... Had I known... I would have opted for a different bike. I'm the type I revolt on restrictions.

Bike for sale in 3... 2... 1... hahah

Found these. highly rated for brightness

Amazon.com

View attachment 265776


But they require a harness and fuse I guess.

Just ordered this service manual... so that'll be some help... over long term. Maybe wear less people out here..

2017-2022 Kawasaki Vulcan S / ABS / Café Part# 99832-0008-04 service shop repair manual

DIY self service dealership OEM factory manufacturer save money fix troubleshoot quality money back genuine how to learn diagnose

www.service-shop-repair-manual.com

FYI: The info in their writeup is sort of contradictory, but the 25W/PC and 1.35A@12V is for one light, not the pair. Look more closely at the spec table further down the description. It specifically states 1.35A/PC; 2.7A /pair. So 25W/PC would also be for one, not the pair.

Edit: 50W is better than 60W, but it may still be more than the KVS can handle.

 

Thanks.. lol... I'm like a dog chasing his tail now.

Then there's this --specifically advertising for the Vulcan S BUT -- the math STILL does not work. How can these pp advertise this and not be accurate?!

 

Thanks.. lol... I'm like a dog chasing his tail now.

Then there's this --specifically advertising for the Vulcan S BUT -- the math STILL does not work. How can these pp advertise this sh*t and not be accurate?!

40W may be in the range that a KVS can handle. I don't know. That's the problem here. Bike mfgs don't provide that info. They provide limits on accessory circuits, but that's it. They never provide info on how many Watts or Amps are available when idling and at higher RPMs. You also have to be aware that as the bike ages, the stator and R/R outputs will drop, so that has to be taken into account. Maybe this company measured the R/R output under max load to determine that there was enough power available for their lights. They may just say they work with a KVS but don't really know. Who knows?

I would guess that 40W, with nothing else beyond stock equipment drawing power, would be OK. But that's just a guess. It might be OK if you're not in stop and go traffic a lot, but could be too much if you spend a lot of time sitting at red lights. At lower RPMs the stator output drops. At higher RPMs it increases.

 

Yea... I guess I'm willing to try this one... especially since I found the exact thing NIB on OfferUp for way cheaper. If it doesn't work out I resell it here and lose nothing. Then I'll break down and just bite the bullet and get the $450. OEM light bar.

I'm also hoping by ordering the actual mechanic service manual I'll get some more insight into it.

You should have a tip jar for all the help you give us clueless newbs

 

I've been working on my own bikes for a few years now, and I'm still learning stuff on this and other forums. We all have to start somewhere.

 

Thanks.

Also thinking about these -- 1200 lumens is the brightest I've found for 24W --but it means using a universal harness, with most that I've seen come with a 10A up to 30A fuse wired inline. At least this is within the 24w max load. They're kind of ugly.

Pardon Our Interruption...

Universal Harness

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

Thanks.

Also thinking about these -- 1200 lumens is the brightest I've found for 24W --but it means using a universal harness, with most that I've seen come with a 10A up to 30A fuse wired inline. At least this is within the 24w max load. They're kind of ugly.

Pardon Our Interruption...

Universal Harness

Pardon Our Interruption...

Looks like the only difference between this wiring harness and the first one (the 60W set) is that it has 2 grounds, instead of one. The power side connects to the battery and the relay trigger side could connect to the pos/ground of one of the accessory connector sets. Plus a button to turn it off even if the key is on. They are kind of fugly and will be a challenge to mount, but those should work for you.

 

Fugly fo sure... having sat with it now... I can't bring myself to do it. I'll shell out the $450. for the OEM light bar
(if the NIB ones don't work) before I kill the whole look of the bike with those square ones.

And thanks @whoaru99

G'night mates!

 

Here's what I used, switchable between white driving lights and yellow fog lights. They worked perfectly- even with my cell phone charging at the same time- And they are bright! Same lights JadeHawk is using I believe.

Amazon.com: CO LIGHT Motorcycle LED Fog Lights 60W 18000LM Dual Color Auxiliary Driving Lights with Wire Harness Kit, 3 Modes Amber White Light Universal Fit for Motorcycle Motorbike Dirt Bike ATV UTV, 2PCS : Automotive

Buy CO LIGHT Motorcycle LED Fog Lights 60W 18000LM Dual Color Auxiliary Driving Lights with Wire Harness Kit, 3 Modes Amber White Light Universal Fit for Motorcycle Motorbike Dirt Bike ATV UTV, 2PCS: Light Bars - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

It says 60 watts and as I said the bike had no trouble powering them.

 

Oy.. I was looking at those at one point. In fact I think I saw the link through another thread's post on here (by you? or @Jadehawk ? )

Which is what set me down the path of finding the ones in my first post of this very thread. If these are 60W and the ones I posted are 60W --ANNNND you find they run ok on your bike....

WHY o WHY can't the ones I posted here first (even bought them and then returned them) why won't they work just as fine. You are talking about them running fine on a Vulcan S 650 --correct?

I like these --but the ones I posted first are even better (to me) bc the yellow and white are on the same pod --each side.. not yellow one side and the white the other side. Plus the ones I posted first have a emerg. strobe feature.

 

After thinking on this, there's no way our bikes would only supply 25 watts of auxilliary power. That's a tiny amout- and I'm pretty sure the factory lightbar must be over 25 watts, led or ortherwise.

 

After chasing down the OEM light bar LIGHTS stats. Multiple phone calls and emails. Even to Kawasaki Warehouse DIRECT --they couldn't even tell me the wattage of the damn OEM lightbar.

From a thread buried in this forum --I read that supposedly the Kawasaki OEM lightbar employs the PIAA LP530 lights (Kawasaki must buy from them?) --I finally found what the wattage supposedly is by watching this video

Each light has two 3 watt LEDS pointed at the reflector x two lights, that means 12 watts total.

Call me skeptical. But it seems way brigther than that watching videos

 

A big factor is how long the extra lights are used.

It's not like the battery or bike will go dead right after you turn them on, rather what happens if you use the lights for 1/2 hour or 1 hour or 3 hours or...

A voltage monitor could answer that question. If the voltage always stays high enough to keep the battery charged then it should be fine. But, if the voltage decreases the longer the lights are on then the charging system isn't keeping up.

 

Ah that helps! @Sabre-t suggested one so I have it ordered.. I just didn't know what I was supposedly to be using it for when I got it attached. So it tells me a number of course... but what does the number mean? Like is it going to stay somewhere around 12V if not working right? And if not I'll see it gradually decrease? time to Google!

 

You're welcome! These little details can be tedious, but I know you'll be fine with the original 60 watt pair you bought, and with more power, they'll be brighter- Isn't that what we want anyway, LoL.

 

This is what I was going with... thinking I could multi-purpose using this DC charger with this Voltmeter.

 

Yep- but you're not going to have a problem. I took a 5 hr ride with my phone charging and all my lights on high, and never got a low-voltage idiot light on my 650 S.

 

Well... I guess we'll see when I test which wire is the positive on the Vulans spare ACC, crimp a bullet connector on the yellow and stick that into it.

God I hope I don't fry the heck out of things... LIKE. 😳😬 My motorcycle. But it does say in the pic to connect to the ACC. I just am wary.

I might just take it to an auto-electric guy but they're so expensive. The whole I idea of going this route was to get a brighter light than the OEM lightbar offers while and saving money.

 

Well... I guess we'll see when I test which wire is the positive on the Vulans spare ACC, crimp a bullet connector on the yellow and stick that into it.

God I hope I don't fry the heck out of things... LIKE. 😳😬 My dang motorcycle.

This is become an exercise in insanity. I might just take it to an auto-electric guy but they're so bloody expensive. The whole I idea of going this route was to get a brighter light than the OEM lightbar offers AND and saving money.

Amazon is just gonna love me if I have to return the same light -- twice

Could you hook up the red & yellow wires to pos battery and the black wire to ground? That would basically give you what I have- an always powered setup, that is only shut off by the switch. The yellow wire on yours says on the picture it is the accessory wire, which I have no idea why you would need! It's not like a car stereo, that needs the acc power to keep the clock running when the car is off, it's just lights!

 

You're asking me? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

I'm hoping here at some point @Jadehawk will see the bat light in the sky and swoop in to save the day.

 

I've been following this thread and am going to throw in my 2¢ worth... Looking at the wiring diagram in the service manual (available on the main page of this forum, pinned near the top), there's 2 accessory connection points (2 pairs of connectors located behind the headlight), one of which is labelled 'fog lights' and intended for the oem light bar. One of these connector wires is labelled bk/y (black/yellow) and goes to a joint connector, where a black wire exits and eventually goes to ground on the frame. The other connector wire is labelled w/bl (white/blue) and goes through the accessory relay and then onward to the 30A main fuse. I presume this wire therefore provides the power.
Personally, I would cut off the battery terminal connectors on the wires of the lights you want to connect (your first choice at the beginning of this thread). Then connect the black wire to the connector behind the headlight having the bk/y wire (for ground), and connect both the red and yellow wires from the light unit to the white/blue connector on the bike, to provide power to the lights (via the red wire) and to the switch for the light unit (via the yellow wire). My only caveat would be the size or guage of the wire... will it fit in the connectors? And is the bike wiring at that point sufficient to handle the load of the lights? I'm imagining yes, but don't know much officially about electrics, just what I've picked up from installing small LEDs on my KVS.

 

 

@WitsEnd

Since you've already installed the OEM accessory relay why would you not use the acc lead to feed the yellow wire?

The only reason is if you would for some reason want to turn on the lights with the key switch off. Sounds sorta useful, right? Until someone switches them on when you're not around and runs the battery dead. Or, in some way, you manage to leave them on by accident and run the battery dead.

Wire up the lights battery power & ground and acc yellow as intended and move on.

 

@amie-j appreciate all that took --but if it comes to cutting factory wires I'm in over my head and def more than I'd want to be (unless it was urgent and no other options) At that point I'd take it to a professional anyways just bc I know my limits, at least right now.

I did order the professional serv. manual so that'll help my KVS education.

I'll probably take pictures and post them here with marks ups like "this to this?" with arrows pointing, before I actually attach anything and send power through.

 

You're making a mountain out of a molehill.

Red to battery (+), black to battery (-), yellow to the acc lead.