Glad to hear that. Got a little troubleshooting time in also which never hurts.

 

You are going to need a test light at the least, a volt/olm meter would be better.A service manual or access to one. A few jumper wires.
I would test the starter switch, starter relay,kickstand switch,clutch switch,kill switch.
Hopefully SFAIR will be along shortly to help.
Good Luck

 

I've got a volt/ohm meter I'm borrowing, should have it by this weekend. Figures this would happen the week it warms up the mid/high 60s.

 

I guess it doesn't start in neutral either... that eliminates the kickstand and clutch(starter lockout) switches.

Does the FI light do anything? if there's a error in the system it blinks in a certain way..

Does the fuel pump arm/start when you turn the ignition key on?

here are a few possible connection issues:
-engine stop switch
-main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
-vehicle-down sensor

*sent you a personal message

 

Haven't noticed the fi light acting screwy, I'll take a closer look tomorrow. Fuel pump starts, but it sounds like it's lagging after a split second... Could be my imagination looking for something but it kind of sounds like it cuts off for a split second then starts back with a lag. Hard to describe.i checked the ignition fuse, didn't check the main. I'll take a look at that tomorrow as well.


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Check to see if you might have a blown fuse.

Is it possible that when you removed the handlebars you inadvertently pulled a wire loose from the switch housing, or even broke a wire? That could be easy to do, as those aren't necessarily heavy wires.

 

That was my first thought as well. I took the switch housing apart and didn't notice anything, but was in a hurry and just gave it a quick once over. Hoping to get in there and look things over in more detail today or tomorrow.


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If you have no success with the hunt, post back and we will break out the troubleshooting tools.

 

Planning on picking up a multimeter this afternoon and diving in this weekend if I don't get a chance to sooner. I'll update as soon as can actually get into and check some things out.

 

If you post back with make and model # of your meter, we can help you chase down that problem.

 

Hoping to have time to check it out this weekend, between work and Christmas coming up I keep getting delayed. How do I go about testing the ignition switch to see if it's the culprit? Considering what I stated having a temporary issue where I got nothing upon hitting the button, but the bike firing right up after a couple tries, I'm leaning towards a connection being loose somewhere initially and me finishing it off when I removed the handle bars.

I'm also not entirely sure the fuel pump is cycling completely but that could be my ears playing tricks look for issues. I do hear a stutter after a second then it shuts off. I don't remember it sounding like that but then again i never listened all THAT closely and I may just be looking for problems.


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The ignition switch is unlikely problem.
Is the engine starting now?

 

The ignition switch is unlikely problem.

Is the engine starting now?

It isn't. Doesn't turn over, no clicking, nothing at all.


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Could you do the following:

1. Take a voltage reading across the battery.
2. Key on, take another reading.
3. Leave key on for a full five minutes and then take another reading.
4. Leave key off for 5 minutes and then take another reading.

Post back with 4 readings.

 

Could you do the following:



1. Take a voltage reading across the battery.

2. Key on, take another reading.

3. Leave key on for a full five minutes and then take another reading.

4. Leave key off for 5 minutes and then take another reading.



Post back with 4 readings.

Will do, I should be able to get to it tomorrow


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Voltage drop test.
Sounds like it might be a positive or negative battery cable issue.
Simply place one end of the voltmeter on the neg battery post the other at the starter housing, or fastener bolt. Hit the starter switch. The reading should be less than a volt. Do the same between the positive battery post and the positive cable end at the starter, should read less than a volt. If you read more than a volt either pos or neg side check all battery cable connections especially of the neg cable. Loose or corroded connections of the neg "ground" cable will allow some low drawing consumers to work fine but somthing like a starter will not. Even if this is not the problem the voltage drop test is an easy and usefull test that can be use on any electronic component.

 

This test will not work if the starter solenoid is not pulling.

 

I'm pretty positive the fuel pump isn't engaging fully. It runs for a split second, makes something of a stuttering sound, and stops. I seem to remember the fuel pump doing that with the kill switch engage but it could just be me looking for a problem.


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OK,

1. Locate starter solenoid. It is at the far end of the positive battery cable.
2. On the plug, you will see a yellow/red wire.
3. Push red meter lead down beside wire to contact pin in connector.
4. Black meter lead to battery ground.
5. Key on, push start button and take voltage reading.

Post back with reading and/or any questions.

 

OK,



1. Locate starter solenoid. It is at the far end of the positive battery cable.

2. On the plug, you will see a yellow/red wire.

3. Push red meter lead down beside wire to contact pin in connector.

4. Black meter lead to battery ground.

5. Key on, push start button and take voltage reading.



Post back with reading and/or any questions.

Looking for it and found this which I've never noticed. Should the yellow wire be connected to something?


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Also, I inadvertently bridged the two wires on the solenoid while fiddling around and it did turn over.


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OK,

1. Locate relay box. It is beside starter solenoid which contains main fuse. Has three plugs.
2. Find red with green stripe wire. Push red meter lead down beside wire to contact pin.
3. Black meter lead to battery ground.
4. Key on, push start switch and take reading.

Post back with reading.

 

OK,



1. Locate relay box. It is beside starter solenoid which contains main fuse. Has three plugs.

2. Find red with green stripe wire. Push red meter lead down beside wire to contact pin.

3. Black meter lead to battery ground.

4. Key on, push start switch and take reading.



Post back with reading.

With plug connected correct? I don't see enough space around the wire to push the lead in


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Plug connected.

Push a stick pin beside wire and then touch meter probe to pin if there is not enough room for probe.

 

The loose yellow wire is for accessing ECU diagnostics.
Not connected to anything.

 

Not good.

1. Follow the wires that come from the start switch to where they come to a connector. Possibly inside the headlight bucket.
2. At that connector, push red meter lead beside green/white wire to contact pin.
3. Black meter lead to battery ground.
4. Key on, push start switch and take reading.

Post back with reading.

 

Not good.



1. Follow the wires that come from the start switch to where they come to a connector. Possibly inside the headlight bucket.

2. At that connector, push red meter lead beside green/white wire to contact pin.

3. Black meter lead to battery ground.

4. Key on, push start switch and take reading.



Post back with reading.

Got her going. Somehow that connector had managed to come unplugged. Thanks for all your help!


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