[VulcanDrifter]

Then started to work on the top end sound some good some bad and some...well I need a donor engine....lol
Front KACR sping...kinda:
.

Not clear from your pix, is that the front KACR? And it's in good shape?

 

[Timbox]

@Bandit101 Thanks for the input, that will really help making the selection.

As for the front KACR I will get in there and take some better pics. If it is suposed to be tight and held together and then thrown out with force as the motor spin ups? Neither of them are. They are very lose as the springs are either gone or worn out.

 

[Bandit101]

They are supposed to be very loose, sloppy, but snug on the cam shaft. The light springs pull them in when the engine is not running to hold the exhaust valve open. When engine starts centrifugal force overrides the spring and the end that holds the exhaust Valve open is slung away from the valve.
Major difference between mean streak & others is the transmission gearing.

 

[Timbox]

I think it was mentioned above that the mean streak might have larger valves and a more aggressive cam as well? That and the transmission is different.

Looking on ebay there are a lot to chose from for sure. Freight shipping and most guarantee their motors. Not really looking forward at dropping the $1.5k for a new used motor but I don't really have much of a choice if I want to bike to be on the rd. I could always just part it out myself...but what is the fun in that.

I bought this bike to replace my 2002 HD Softail. I grind the pegs so bad on that bike I might as well not even ride it. lol

 

[Timbox]

The engine is fully seized now that I flushed it. The rear to end of cylinder was starting to show signs of wear and would fail soon as well.


All the springs on the KACR were either gone (in the screen on early thread pics) or broken and hanging on and getting thrashed. No spring at all on the rear and that is why I didn't put the pic here. Both cams show signs of wear but not like the journals, could use them in the future on another bike. Or even put them in my Nomad...hmm



So now to start to look for a good replacement motor. From the advice I have received so far the only real difference between the mean and the others is the head valves and cam is a little more aggressive. Still trying to stay within blue book for this bike, so will have to keep looking for a good deal.

 

[Bandit101]

The KACR in your picture above looks to be in good shape. They only have the one small spring.

 

[Timbox]

Yes they both are in good shape, the one I posed is the front. If you look close the small spring is busted, there is no end to the spring so now working as designed. The rear one came off easy and then the little pin that holds it to the cam shaft came and and does not want to go back in. There seems to be a little damage to the hole that pin came out of. Maybe on the verge of letting go?

The rear cylinder spring was gone and what was found in the left drain oil screen in the pictures above.

The scoring is not good on the journals though and not too sure how long the head had left even with a oil change. The rest of the engine is on hold as it is totally locked up now, can't move it either way with plugs out and using the bolt on the crank.

 

[Timbox]

More reading up on the swap and getting very worried about used engines. Many people saying the used engines for sale are just engines ready for the junk yard even is they are guaranteed. If the bike was not in a accident then engine might be the reason the bike is being sold for parts.

With that being said, I will hold onto my money and do a lot more research and hope that one comes up locally.

Good info out there on the different throttle bodes between the MS and the Nomad engine. Also single and double rotors for the charging system. Single MS and double Nomads.

The drive shaft from the MS might not fit the gear output of the Nomad engine?

So there as some differnet builds on another forum I am looking at and it seems many have done the swap over, staying with the same engine from the same yr seems to be the best plug and play option. But then you have to worry about the engine being good and having a good maintenance record.

 

[Bandit101]

Last year for the 15 & 1600 engines was '08, so at best you could get an engine that is 14 years old. When buying a used engine from a wrecked bike, make sure to check the mounting holes in the case as quite often they are broken. Dual stators is not a problem, just plug in one and you have a spare.

 

[Bill Koenig]

Picked up my winter project yesterday. I saw it on FB market and well it was in my home town and in my price range. I had to go for it.

Took it home put in on the operating table and started to go through the bike. No issues with fuses and a little penetrating spray on the ignition key hole and even that started to work well.

The story is the PO was riding by my town and the bike left them stranded on the HWY. They found a different mode of trans as they were on a time line and could not wait for the bike to be fixed.


Removed the plugs and they were very full of carbon. This bike seems to be stock besdies the aftermarket air filter that looks to be nothing but a bug deflector. I am sure it really does not do much for true air filter and I will be changing it out for either a OEM or supercharger type.

Found a little something in the rear brake.


To the issue. I know that these bike engine can be loud but the rear cylinder is not right. Sound like there is some ticking of louder that should not be happening. I am going to go ahead and do the cam chain mod right away as this engine has 34K miles on it.

The oil was very dirty, so I don't know I might have to flush the engine. I mean it is really bad.

I am willing to take the upper portion of he engine apart and have the cylinders honed and even new pistons and or re-ring it. I just need a little sanctity check on this engine as all bike and models are different.

The shame here is that the previous owners will be bad mouthing the brand or the model of the bike when the real culprit seems to sound like it was owner lack of service and proper maintenance that caused issues.

 

[Timbox]

Looking at picking up a engine from ebay today, waiting on the seller to provide me a little info and then will pull the trigger. Will be freight shipping from FL but that is okay.

Totally the PO fault of lack of routine oil changes. I am sure they were more worried about how the bike looked then doing any oil changes or flushing brake fluids. I guess to each their own. I like to take good care of my rides so I can ride them for yrs and then if and when I sell them, I know they will not brake down.

 

[dewjr12156]

Picked up my winter project yesterday. I saw it on FB market and well it was in my home town and in my price range. I had to go for it.

Took it home put in on the operating table and started to go through the bike. No issues with fuses and a little penetrating spray on the ignition key hole and even that started to work well.

The story is the PO was riding by my town and the bike left them stranded on the HWY. They found a different mode of trans as they were on a time line and could not wait for the bike to be fixed.


Removed the plugs and they were very full of carbon. This bike seems to be stock besdies the aftermarket air filter that looks to be nothing but a bug deflector. I am sure it really does not do much for true air filter and I will be changing it out for either a OEM or supercharger type.

Found a little something in the rear brake.


To the issue. I know that these bike engine can be loud but the rear cylinder is not right. Sound like there is some ticking of louder that should not be happening. I am going to go ahead and do the cam chain mod right away as this engine has 34K miles on it.

The oil was very dirty, so I don't know I might have to flush the engine. I mean it is really bad.

I am willing to take the upper portion of he engine apart and have the cylinders honed and even new pistons and or re-ring it. I just need a little sanctity check on this engine as all bike and models are different.

The bike looks great and it sounds like you're getting some sound advice as well!!! I really love this forum!!! And good move on your deciding to get rid of that air filter... I hear they're not very good for a bike, and that's by different companies. Anyways...awesome bike and good luck to you with it!!!

 

[Timbox]

With a Fuel Injected bike (FI) the filter only really does filter out the air. With a carb bike it does more as the continuous velocity (CV) carbs have to have some back pressure from the air filter for the fuel to work right.

This forward pointed filter is okay I guess but will really not filter the air like I would like it too. I do not have the OEM cover as that did not come with the bike. I was looking at a hyper charger ect, but not too sure I want that big old thing sticking out of the side of the bike making me move my knee and maybe the footrest out.

Getting the bike back together with the donor engine and making sure it all works with the OEM tuner will be the base test. I will go from there....

Have to more reading on Cobra exhaust, Cobra FI system or the Power Commander 6 system. Air filter, modified OEM all these fun things.

 

[CRU]

With a Fuel Injected bike (FI) the filter only really does filter out the air. With a carb bike it does more as the continuous velocity (CV) carbs have to have some back pressure from the air filter for the fuel to work right.

This forward pointed filter is okay I guess but will really not filter the air like I would like it too. I do not have the OEM cover as that did not come with the bike. I was looking at a hyper charger ect, but not too sure I want that big old thing sticking out of the side of the bike making me move my knee and maybe the footrest out.

You wouldn't be able to reinstall the OEM filter setup so easily. Odds are the PO cut out the old one which includes the crossover tube. I'd hate to try an reinstall that beast. Not sure if they still make them but check out Baron's BAK. Doesn't stick out as much as a hyper charger.

 

[ChopChuiey]

I'm pretty sure that bike has hydraulic valve lash adjusters. If it's been sitting a while, it might just need fresh oil and a few minutes to warm up and refill the adjusters. My 1700 gets a loud tick every spring for about five minutes the first time I fire it up in the spring.

Good looking bike. Good luck and keep us posted!

Valve tick is the timing chain is loose and hitting the inside tube cover of the spark plugs. Just get a timing chain adjustment kit with longer plunger than factory adjusters, find them on eBay

 

[Timbox]

@CRU, I think my Nomad has something very similar to that and I like that setup. I know the cover on my Nomad air filter almost out weighs my batter.....JK.

@ChopChuiey, I do have the round extenders and plan on putting them on the donor engine before I put it in the bike. Have a Barnett clutch spring also ready to go.

On my old engine, as I have stated before, once I did the flush she more or less said "I am done" and will no longer move forward or backward. Not worth it for me to brake it all the way down and split the case.

People I bought the donor/replacement engine from said it will ship today or tomorrow.

 

[ChopChuiey]

@CRU, I think my Nomad has something very similar to that and I like that setup. I know the cover on my Nomad air filter almost out weighs my batter.....JK.

@ChopChuiey, I do have the round extenders and plan on putting them on the donor engine before I put it in the bike. Have a Barnett clutch spring also ready to go.

On my old engine, as I have stated before, once I did the flush she more or less said "I am done" and will no longer move forward or backward. Not worth it for me to brake it all the way down and split the case.

People I bought the donor/replacement engine from said it will ship today or tomorrow.

great winter project splitting case and a fresh ring job/ you should post some pictures before you put the engine back button up

 

[Timbox]

@ChopChuiey , Oh no, I will not be splitting the case. I top end is one thing and have done plenty of them. But having to get down and dirty to splitting the case, removing and replacing the crank....no way. That is why I am getting a replacement motor.

More pics will come. I might tear down the old motor but I do not plan on rebuilding it.

 

[ChopChuiey]

@ChopChuiey , Oh no, I will not be splitting the case. I top end is one thing and have done plenty of them. But having to get down and dirty to splitting the case, removing and replacing the crank....no way. That is why I am getting a replacement motor.

More pics will come. I might tear down the old motor but I do not plan on rebuilding it.

haha, buy the case splitter tool to marvel at Japanese engineering... these engines are bullet proof if the lubrication are kept up...

 

[Timbox]

Even though the replacement engine is on the way I had to take a look. Engine looks good, not too much carbon, jugs, pistons and valves all look good.



But then there is a slight issue I found. Seem like to two connecting rods are rubbing together and making a mess.

And then I see lots of this in the engine...don't thank that is good...lol

So this will be a big job needing two connecting rods, new crank and all the good stuff that goes with it.