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Tire Pressure

37K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  Lunatic  
#1 ·
2011 Vulcan Vaquero 1700.

I'm a few feathers shy of 200 pounds, and I've been running my tire pressure at 30 pounds/ 40 pounds.

I seem to get better gas mileage when I run with higher tire pressure. Would this be sacrificing safety for gas mileage, though?

What pressure do you run at, and why?
 
#2 ·
All other variables the same, more pressure equals less tire contact with the ground, less flex in the sidewall and a stiffer ride. You get better mileage because there is less rolling resistance due to less contact with the ground. Only you can find that "happy place" of pressure where you are satisfied with the firmness and handling. Those are the numbers that I am running and I've been happy with it.
 
#3 ·
I run 40psi in the front and 41psi in the rear. Any thing in the 38psi (front) and down makes the front end wobble, and cups the front tire like crazy. I also don't like the way the bike handles overall with the frame stated tire pressures. I've never had a problem with the traction of the front or rear. I'm not a floor board dragger but I don't drive it like a car either. On the tires I run; front Dunlop Elite 3 and a Dunlop American Elite rear, the maximum tire pressure as stated on the sidewall is 41psi front and 42psi rear. I've always ran close to the maximum amount and have gone well over 1/2 million miles without a problem. You will find though that this topic is a little like oil, dark side, politics and religion. Lots of people have lots of different opinions. This is just my opinion for what it's worth.
 
#4 ·
I've been running the tire pressures as printed on the sidewall for years, now, and have never experienced any traction issues due to a "smaller" tire footprint. The size of that contact patch isn't significantly reduced in size by adding a few pounds of air pressure to the tires.

These pressures were recommended by reps from both Metzeler and Dunlop a few years back. Reasons given were handling and safety, mostly safety as a tire with less air pressure will have more sidewall flex resulting in not only poorer handling, but greater heat buildup due to the inner belts flexing and rubbing as the forces act on the tire. The trade off is a slightly harsher ride, although the ride difference between, say, 32 psi and 40 psi would hardly be noticed unless you have a truly crappy suspension. The other plus is longer tire tread life and less cupping. As expensive as tires are these days, I'd want mine to last as long as possible, but without overstepping the bounds of safety.
 
#6 ·
I have been running stock tires or the excedra Bridgestones which are supposed to have a different compound in them for "extended" life. I've read through so many tire threads and for me it comes down to, how does the bike ride and handle. There are many tire pioneers out there that have reported less than favorable ride reviews with other brands particularly with the front tire. I'll trade some tread life for ride quality all day, otherwise I'd just mount up two (you know whats)

As far as pressure I go just a little firmer than the book says. 28 in the front and 38-40 in the rear (depending on if I'm carrying someone) I've had decent results and ride quality with that.
 
#7 · (Edited)
When I still was running the stock Bridgestone tires on my 2011 Vaquero, the dealer service manager said that the factory recommended tire pressure for the front tire was WAY OFF, as he put it. He suggested that I run at least 36psi in the front tire and 42psi and the rear tire.

I did that and it improved the handling of the bike considerably, but they still wore out way to quick for me. After 15,000 miles and going through two rear stock tires and one front, I have switched to Command IIs and am running 36 & 42 in them too. They handle well for me, no vibrations, run well on all types of road surfaces and conditions to hot and dry to wet and cold and after 10,000 miles on them, they still look only half worn.
 
#8 ·
Good comments from everyone. For what it's worth, running at 30/40 I've never experienced any vibrations - and I've got a medical condition called "Heavius Throttilus".

I guess after reading everything here I'd consider 30/40 to be the minimum, and adding a few pounds common practice.
 
#9 ·
An tire rep told me to check my presure cold. After riding a few miless check the pressure again. If it rose more than 4 PSI then the tire may have been flexing too much and creating a lot of damaging heat. Increase the cold temp (Do not excede max temp)and recheck the hot temp. I found 39 front and 41 rear is the point where my two temps are not too far apart. It seemed strange the hot temp would be 45 whether I started at 36 or 41. rides well and tires wear much better.
 
#11 ·
Incidentally, I think the stock tires on the Vulcans are junk--rim protectors. I had to replace the tires on my wife's 900LT at 5400 miles. The rear was nearly bald and no longer round, and the front tire wasn't far behind. Both run at the pressures shown on the sidewall. The same was for my 1700 Nomad. I sold the Nomad, but she still has her 900 with the Metzelers I put on it. 5000 miles later and they look nearly brand new. Running 40 front/41 rear.
 
#13 ·
That's because you were running the wrong tire pressures for the weight of the bikes. There are guys who have reported getting over 10,000 miles out of the OEM tires. I changed mine on the Voyager at 7000 miles, but that was because I had a cross country trip and didn't want to risk having to change them away from home. Sent the front one to a friend in need of a tire and he got another 5000 out of the front. The rear finally ended up at the recycle center because I didn't want to bother with the labor to put it back on for a few thousand miles.
 
#15 ·
Ok, so for the sake of not starting a new thread I'll ask here. What is the easiest way to check the tire pressure on the Vaquero or bagger style bike? My last bike didn't have hard bags or a dual front rotor. I find myself pretty much sitting on the ground to get air in the rear tire and I have to be a contortionist to check the pressure with a standard tire gauge and my large hands. I imagine it would take something with a flexible tube and attached gauge kind of like the progressive shock pump. I don't have much of a garage type area so my choices on air compressors are pretty much nil. I have a portable tank but usually just fill up my tires at gas stations which makes this whole experience even more inconvenient. Thanks for any input.
 
#16 ·
Get a nice quality dial gauge with flexible hose. You can put an angled valve on the front tire at you next change if you want to. I put a pad on the ground to kneel on when I check the pressure. The other option is to unbolt the side bag, but who wants to go through that trouble.