The positive side of the horn is key switched (the circuit is completed by the horn button in the ground side).
You can connect your relay to this positive and use the hard positive in the headlight bucket to run any auxiliary circuits. This can be lights, usb outlet, louder horn or anything else you can think of.

 

Mentioned earlier in the thread, it would be quite easy to tap the factory accessory relay socket for key-switched power to trigger a relay (since that's what it's for anyway).

 

Ok, so I've installed the OEM relay and connected both lights, one each to the 2 available accessory connectors behind the headlight.

I realise that 30W for both lights is 5W over the recommendation for accessories but as previously mentioned, I think I have enough room to play with, considering the LED conversions.

I also believe 30 Watts at 12V converted to amps is 2.5, so I imagine the factory 5 amp accessory fuse should be sufficient.

Hoping it all works out ok. Thanks again all for your help

 

That's 20% over the recommended max for the circuit. That will continuous draw when the lights are on. The wiring can probably handle it, but why take that chance? When they come on, the startup current will be even higher, momentarily. Personally, I would not do that, but it's your bike. With the LED headlight savings, the extra 5 Watts should not be a problem for the charging system, but it's that one circuit that you could be overloading.

 

If the factory fused the accesssory circuit at 5A then 2.5A load is not a concern in regard to overloading the wiring/circuit.

 

Yeah, some USB chargers/power points draw power even when you don't have a phone (or whatever) connected. Typically it's not very much but depends how much, how big the battery is, and how long it sits whether it could cause the battery to discharge too much.

And, yes, there is at least one thread, likely more, on the topic already.

 

Problem solved re the phone charger. Just ordered a quad lock wireless charging kit with a 12v to usb smart adaptor. It has an auto function for wiring direct to battery...

Motorcycle - Waterproof 12V To USB Smart Adaptor - Quad Lock® Australia - Official Store (quadlockcase.com.au)

Use Auto function to keep the device off until input voltage rises above 13.5V and turn off when input voltage drops below 12.5V. Perfect for your motorcycle, ATV, etc, to avoid battery drain.

 

I handle mine manually. Installed a "cigarette lighter" power port wired direct to battery, fused of course.

Then I have a stubby USB cig lighter adapter I plug in as needed, or use the cig lighter port for GPS (standalone, not smartphone). Have a (male) cig lighter plug adapter for battery charger/tender if I ever need to go that way too.

 

I see you got one. I was going to suggest a portable to keep in a tank or windshield bag. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-...ds=portable+usb+charger&qid=1676004869&sprefix=Portable+usb,aps,119&sr=8-5&th=1

 

Thanks for the suggestions anyway. The quad lock kit is a little pricey (not overly imo) but it looks like a very solid, high quality unit. Loved their website with the 3D setup and simple customisation of parts to suit your needs. I thought it was brilliant. Seems to be a very popular choice too

 

If you can find (I’ll call them the older style) one that only outputs and draws 1 amp, that would probably be better. I’ve used one in a car before for several hours while also using maps.1 amp is all it took to maintain the charge on an iPhone 13 while using maps and music. No real need for a fast charger probably.

Bear in mind that is 1A at 5V, or 5W power.

The input side is 12V so at 5W power should be less than 1/2 amp (at max, and may be less depending on phone demand).

So, tying into the accessory circuit would not overtax it.

That said, I'd probably opt for at least 2A (2.1, or whatever it actually is). The current typically tapers anyway as charge is taken by the battery so it's not like it draws max all the time.

 

Yes..good point. Thanks for catching that.