[whoaru99]

Dunno for sure on that bike but the accessory terminals on my VN2K are "hot" all the time, not key switched. Must be fairly common as it seems to be a relatively frequent gripe.

Different model but same approach may work for you -

ignition SWITCHED accessory WITHOUT cutting

ignition SWITCHED accessory WITHOUT cutting (UPDATED VIDEO) Bike: 2009 vulcan 900 custom I've been looking for FACTORY ignition switched power source for accessories, and from what I can find, the only 2 accessory leads that I can find (headlight bucket and under seat) are CONSTANT hot. So...

www.vulcanforums.com

 

[whoaru99]

I should add I too used the diagnostic plug switched power lead for switched power on my VN2K.

The VN2K switched power circuit provides low current/control power to two handlebar switches for independent on/off of each light pair relay. The relay contacts then switch the high current circuits for the accessories (two pair of LED driving lights) from battery.

Don't recall fuse sizes for sure, but I think I put a 1A fuse on the low current/control side, and 15A on each of the two high current circuits.

 

[whoaru99]

If one doesn't have all the goodies or no interest in piecing all the bits, Eastern Beaver has single and multiple circuit accessory wiring kits with fuses, relays, etc.

Eastern Beaver Fuse Box And Auxilary Wiring Kiys

Eastern Beaver PDM and fuse box optionse

easternbeaver.com

 

[whoaru99]

Perhaps you meant something like fuse at 125 to 135% of the load rather than 75 to 80%, as it sounds like you're saying?

 

[whoaru99]

Well, that explains no power at the accessory terminals.

But, you already have a relay and could use either the switched power wire that must be at the accessory relay plug, or perhaps sitll the diagnostic plug switched power wire, to trigger it.

And, yes, if you already replaced some lights with LED and they actually do draw less power, the difference would be additive to the 25W limit suggested.

 

[whoaru99]

My point earlier was that since the OP already has a relay, he could use the relay "trigger" terminal in the factory accessory relay socket without actually using the factory relay. Based on looking at the relay pictures it appears plain old "Faston" terminal would work to plug into the relay socket terminal.

The optional accessory relay is basically as follows so it wouldn't be hard to identify which of the terminals is the trigger wire to the relay coil, then insert the Faston terminal into that slot.

Probably could narrow it down to one or two terminals just by looking at the color code. Since one of the coil terminals usually would be connected to ground, and Kawasaki typically uses Black/Yellow (BK/Y) for ground, if you see BK/Y to one terminal, the terminal across from it the narrow way (above or below as shown in the illustration) should be the switched wire that triggers the relay.

Of course, with a voltmeter it would be only a matter of checking the terminals.

 

[whoaru99]

Yup, I understood your relay has different pinout but perhaps incorrectly presumed it was socketed and had some wires you could adapt/connect to the factory socket.

You may want to reconsider the switch in case there are times you may not want the extra lights on every time the key is on/bike is running.

My aux lights are on separate switches despite also being tied to switched power control.

 

[whoaru99]

That low power overhead sound like a pretty good reason in itself to be able to kill the lights on demand.

 

[whoaru99]

Mentioned earlier in the thread, it would be quite easy to tap the factory accessory relay socket for key-switched power to trigger a relay (since that's what it's for anyway).

 

[whoaru99]

If the factory fused the accesssory circuit at 5A then 2.5A load is not a concern in regard to overloading the wiring/circuit.

 

[whoaru99]

Yeah, some USB chargers/power points draw power even when you don't have a phone (or whatever) connected. Typically it's not very much but depends how much, how big the battery is, and how long it sits whether it could cause the battery to discharge too much.

And, yes, there is at least one thread, likely more, on the topic already.

 

[whoaru99]

I handle mine manually. Installed a "cigarette lighter" power port wired direct to battery, fused of course.

Then I have a stubby USB cig lighter adapter I plug in as needed, or use the cig lighter port for GPS (standalone, not smartphone). Have a (male) cig lighter plug adapter for battery charger/tender if I ever need to go that way too.

 

[whoaru99]

If you can find (I’ll call them the older style) one that only outputs and draws 1 amp, that would probably be better. I’ve used one in a car before for several hours while also using maps.1 amp is all it took to maintain the charge on an iPhone 13 while using maps and music. No real need for a fast charger probably.

Bear in mind that is 1A at 5V, or 5W power.

The input side is 12V so at 5W power should be less than 1/2 amp (at max, and may be less depending on phone demand).

So, tying into the accessory circuit would not overtax it.

That said, I'd probably opt for at least 2A (2.1, or whatever it actually is). The current typically tapers anyway as charge is taken by the battery so it's not like it draws max all the time.