since theres no parts fich yet, i googled the versys, and that comes with a 46t sprocket. Online they have different sprockets for the versys. i think the Vulcan is on a 46t also.


OK so Stock 2015 Vulcan s comes with 15/46 gear ratio 42041-0087 same part numbers as 2015 versys

2015 Versys 650 comes in 15/46 ratio. the sprockets are same on either bike!
Going thru versys forums, alot of them change gearing,

 

This will help you alot.

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

Top of the page select kawa/vulcan/650 S and it will load in data into the columns.

Enjoy!

 

his will help too.

http://metalgear.com.au/view_sprocket_model_details.php?model_id=249551

 

i decided to change the engine sprocket instead, gona do 16 tooth, this will do a more significant change

13144-0038 oem Kawasaki part number for a 16 t

 

What is the goal for a 16 tooth front sprocket? Lower RPMs at freeway speeds? Any special considerations to this project? I wouldn't mind my freeway RPMs to be lower myself.

 

IMO, these bikes are made for light weight to heavy riders as well as 2 passengers. so its understandable for them to be designed to be able to carry 2. Im 135 lbs and the bike takes off easily, i can benefit from lil less torque and more speed with a bigger engine sprocket. i find myself at 6th gear all the time and i havent ridden on the freeway.

the part number is actual kawasaki, itl bolt right up, the stretching of the chain after break in will take most of the slack, the rear wheel will probably move forward only minimal

 

Good find with the 16t sprocket.
I thought about changing a while ago as I do a fair bit of high speed riding.
The bike does rev high to maintain high speed but with increased servicing the bike will be fine.
I'll get one for when I do a long distance cruise to save fuel.
Theres no way Im giving up that punchy take off power for now.
If Kawa released this bike with 16t everyone would be changing to 15t just because.

 

You will probably like the one you just bought....If not enough, you could also go down one tooth on the rear sprocket.

my two cents.

 

Gear Swap results!

I might be the first to do this swap, it is totally worth it. The pic below is the 16t installed. the pic above is the 15tooth.
16 is the biggest that will fit as you can tell. You lose -HARDLY notieceable take off from first, but every other gear is fine. Freeway speeds, the motor isnt screeming as much compared. I would recommend this if you are 150 lbs or less. 150lbs or more, doable if you have a tuned exhaust and like powercommander.
the gearing does really feel better suited 16-46. I did it by myself, tho two people would be safer.

Kawasaki oem gear part number 13144-0038
need a 27mm socket for rear axle and engine sprocket nut
12mm for adjuster chain tension
10 & 8mm sockets to get housings out.

 

Hi JR.
Were you able to find torque settings for the front sprocket nut?
You could possibly reverse eng. by taking it off with torque wrench and creep up on settings until it cracks although it usually gives a higher reading.
Better to have the right numbers.

 

The correct torque is important but that nut has a locking washer on it so it doesn't rely on the correct torque to keep it from coming loose. Really tight and then the locking washer should suffice. I doubt you could strip that thread or nut.

 

How much was the new sprocket?

 

J, what kind of difference have you noticed? Did you take any before/after samples (say @ 70mph cruise @ OEM gearing you're @ 5500 RPM, and with a gear change you're @ 5000 RPM resulting in a 10% change)? It would be much more difficult to quantify low level torque loss, unless I imagine you timed a 0-60 run in OEM config and retimed in gear change.

What I'm curious about is attempting to get the best of both worlds. I installed the TBR exhaust which claims about an 8% increase in power & 12 lbs weight savings. It certainly feels a bit faster to me. I'm going to research the air intake and try to figure out if a filter change or plenum increase or ram air will be benificial. Couple that with the freer flowing exhaust & a power commander w/ good tune & I think maybe there's a potential of up to 20% increase in power (10 - 15hp).

If I did this, and changed up the gearing to stretch out my RPM range, then I could essentially keep my low end takeoff the same (or maybe even slightly bump it up) and run at a higher (highway) speed at a lower RPM resulting in less work for the motor.

I've only looked into the Power Commander tuning capabilities a little. I plan to delve deeper. But it may offer a way to run more than one map. And switch them on the fly. If so I could tune a power map, then swap to a gas saver map for highway cruising. It would all depend on the quality of tunes & the module capability.

I'm like you in the aspect of having experience in an offshoot area but understanding gearing. I have raced high end RC cars for a couple years now. And gearing is important & complex in the sport. As well I work in a specialized area of HVAC so I understand fan principles (pulleys or "sheaves" and relationship to volume increase based on size) as well as the properties of air, which is good for intake increase. I also have done some major car modifying. What do you think?

 

Brandon, sorry, i got lost when you got technical with powercurves and etc. I strongly feel the benefits outweigh the veryminimal slight loss in torque.

The loss in torque is only from take off from dead stop. VERY minute, Easily overcome with the rpm. i still take off fast, as i am 135lbs but i feel the bike can do it with a heavier rider, tuned exhaust. im on stock exhaust too.

at 65mph im at 4800 rpm now. i might be wrong as i have alot in my head right now, i will confirm when i get home.

Also, the speed will be wrong since the pickup is at the engine pinion gear sensor. im obviously faster than 65 if reading is at 65.

with a tuned exhaust like yours, you probably will even out. the motor just screams less with a 16 tooth.


Disclaimer:
when you swap to a 16t, at first few miles of downshifting, you will hear slight chatter or rubbing, it is the chains outer side rubbing on the plastic shroud u see in the picture. It is very minute and after a few downshifts, it goes away, it is material in the plastic that slowly gets rubbed out, IMO very minute. i look at my chain and i doesnt even look like it rubbed.

Basically, when u downshift, the motor doesnt want to be forced to turn, the gear. so the chain sort of goes outside thus pushing the outer shroud n rubbing.

I dont get the rubbing anymore and gearing is perfect for me now.

 

DNA are the only ones making cotton filter to my knowledge. I ordered mine from italy last week.
PCV have twin tune capacity with an optional switch.
Our ozzy version ecu might have 2 inbuilt tunes. one to comply with learner legal requirements. on previous 650 kwakas usually its a jumper which means a switch can be wired in. the learner tune is ideal for wet weather.

 

Evil, do you know if the Power Commander is considered open source? Meaning is it point customizable through software? I haven't looked at filters yet. I know there are some drop in oil filters for the ninja & Versys. I'm not sure if our intakes differ. But for the reuseability of oil types, there is plenty of debate on wether they actually flow more air or not. Does anyone know if our bikes uses a Thermoanemometer (Hotwire) type Mass Air Flow sensor? I'm very unfamiliar with bikes and I'm coming from an automotive base. I'd really like to come up with a ram air that captures cool air and aesthetically works with the design of the bike.

J, I don't imagine it throws off the speedo a terrible amount right? It should be an electric signal so potentially there's a fix that can be applied? Regardless it wouldn't be a big deal to just visually calculate as you go along.

 

Ya, i dont know how it can be recalibrated. but yes, its sensor on the gear side. you can see it in the first picture of my post.
when i ride on 65mph or 5o etc, i will make a note and tell you the rpm. compare with yours. i should have compared before.

 

I already forgot what speed is at 4k rpm, but my 65mph is 4800 rpm.

that's 65 on the speedo, but actual speed is probably more, its stock un calibrated.

google the part number, 13144-0038 that's Kawasaki part number, oem Kawasaki gear

got mine new from ebay was partzilla I think.

 

vids

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_BOPh505c8


or youtube.com/infinion3 if link doesnt work.


i made this mount similar to my old FZ07, hitch receiver style. still needs improvement. i only atatch it when im on a good route around here like hwy 9.
u cant tell the gearing was changed, but acceleration is there!

 

So I took a trip to a car show earlier. I was watching my revolutions.

67 MPH = 5,000 RPM
75 MPH - 5,600 RPM

Check yours & lets see what the difference is.

 

Just swapped my front sprocket based on this thread. To anyone else that undertakes this change, be warned. I had to clearance the black shroud on the top and front. It is made of aluminum and a die grinder made quick work of it. Removed about half the thickness between 8 o'clock and 10 o'clock positions. Also had to touch a small bump at the 5 o'clock position. If I had to do it again I think I would look at a smaller rear sprocket instead.

 

Looking at the ratio's, a 43T rear sprocket will yield the same change (+/-0.5%) as going to a 16T front.

 

One could change out both front and rear sprockets and get still taller "gearing"???? I realize it would result in slower takeoff from standing start than changing just one or the other.

 

I have made the change and it's great. First gear now doesn't rip my shoulders out and doesn't feel as snappy when letting the clutch out. Thanks for the tip.

 

im glad, anotehr testament that it is beneficial for the motor, bike, and the rider to do the gearing change.

did you grind anything? i did not grind anything, just swaped gears, engine breaking made the chain like whiplash n rub but thats all gone after few miels of riding. love the gearing now, i can go faster on freeway too

 

Hey guys today I replaced the front sprocket to a 16t after reading this forum and it great. I think the bike was originally designed for the 16t because it feels and rides much better now. Now I am not sure if there is any difference in the 2015 and 2016 models but I own the 2016 café and I did not hear any rubbing nor did I have to file anything down just switched them out good to go. Highly recommend it.

 

Has anybody swapped the rear to a smaller one? I have a 43T sitting at home I was about to install but then thought it might make the chain too long. I did a little digging around online a it looks like I may need to loose a link, just curious if the tension adjustment will be enough to eat that up before I try it.

Thanks

 

Hello all,

This post was taken from the Versys Forum.
As I was former Versys owner and this is the best thread for this issue for the Vulcan S the same Sprockets front and rear fit the Vulcan S

Quick intro to this subject. The wear life of a chain and sprocket is partly determined by maintenance and partly the sprockets and chain themselves. A chain/sprocket combo that causes the same chain link to hit the same sprocket tooth every time will cause that tooth and link to wear much quicker than the rest. Ideally each time around the link is one tooth farther along than it was before, requiring it to visit each tooth in the sprocket before it hits the first one again. Manufactures generally choose a combination somewhere in the middle because achieving ideal wear while getting the ratio you want is difficult. The other considerations are how many contacts you get per distance (tool uses a mile) and the radius of the sprocket (smaller front sprockets accelerate the chain faster). Thus the trick is to either choose a middle ground ratio and put up with a little more wear or choose one of the ideal combinations. The final consideration is that each change will cause the distance between the drive sprocket and rear axle to move. This must be kept as close as possible to stock to allow it to fit in the adjustment slots in the swing arm. I haven't looked at the rear axle tensioner on a V so I can't speak for how much room there is to make these kinds of adjustments. However people seem to be getting away with a 43 tooth rear on the stock chain (114 links) which is +.510 inches but could cause you to run out adjustment before the chain is truly worn out.

For ideal wear both sprockets must be odd in contrast to the even number of links on the chain (don't use half-links!). Bike Bandit carries 13-16 tooth fronts and 39-46 tooth rears. Here is a partial list of combinations near the 15/44 ratio that don't result in poor wear. Ideal wear numbers match sprocket teeth, above half is good, below is poor.

~ Front/Rear-Chain ~ Ratio ~ Length Difference ~ Wear #s ~ Comments
~ 15/46-114 ~ 3.06 ~ .000 ~ 5/23 ~ Stock, ratio little a high, poor front wear
~ 16/46-114 ~ 2.88 ~ -.150 ~ 8/23 ~ 15/43-112 is better
~ 15/45-112 ~ 3.00 ~ -.460 ~ 15/45 ~ May not fit, ratio one step down from stock
~ 15/45-114 ~ 3.00 ~ +.170 ~ 5/15 ~ Poor wear
~ 15/44-112 ~ 2.93 ~ -.290 ~ 15/11 ~ Poor rear wear
~ 15/44-114 ~ 2.93 ~ +.340 ~ 5/22 ~ Good choice, stock wear
~ 15/43-112 ~ 2.86 ~ -.120 ~ 15/43 ~ Excellent choice
~ 15/41-112 ~ 2.73 ~ +.210 ~ 15/41 ~ Ratio a little low
~ 14/41-110 ~ 2.93 ~ -.270 ~ 7/41 ~ Good choice, Better wear than 15/44-114
~ 13/39-110 ~ 3.00 ~ +.210 ~ 13/39 ~ Front sprocket small, one step down from stock

For a 2.93 (15/44) ratio I'd use 14/114-110 instead just move the chain up one link on the front when you clean it. For a 2.86 ratio 15/43-112 is the way to go for highway riding. Other ratios are possible but this seems to be what most people find to be the right ratio for this bike.

This stuff is why I love chain drive bikes. I don't know how much this all affects real world chain life but being an engineer I love things like this, call it obsessive compulsive.

See what you've (I've) done to me? Now I've spent my afternoon looking up sprocket numbers for a bike I don't even own yet.

courtesy of Matt from Versys forum.

P.S. I had 15t/43t on the Versys before I traded it in for the much more comfortable Vulcan S se

 

I just did my Mod Finally to the Vulcan S Se.

I put 16t front and 43t in the rear.

This allowed me the mod with out breaking the chain.

It runs almost like my 600 GSX-R did. I have so much longer gears in the whole range.
1st gear this morning I was at 40mph with out excessive wind up and torque.

I will play around with it and keep all of you posted.
I haven't had a chance to check the speedo as of yet.

I did raise the pre-load on the shock to 6th position.

Ralph D II
Joust out of Boston.

 

I just did my Mod Finally to the Vulcan S Se.....
...I put 16t front and 43t in the rear.....
...1st gear this morning I was at 40mph with out excessive wind up and torque....
...I haven't had a chance to check the speedo as of yet.

Hi Ralph,
Have a play with this calculator.
I reckon your speedo is going to get you in trouble!

I'm waiting for my chain to wear out before I change to a 43t but I'll be keeping the 15t size on front.
Supersprox make a nice 2 piece 43t unit I've had my eyes on. I'm due for the 32,000km service this week so I'll be checking the chain length for wear while I'm at it.

 

Hey Capt.

That's cool calculator.

When I did my Versys the speedo was dead on with the same ratio.

16/43 The bike cruises so much better but I did hear a tinny chain rub on the aluminum chain guard on the engine this morning heading into work.

Front I bought from Part-Zilla: 13144-0038 SPROCKET-OUTPUT,16T,# (PSP Kawasaki) $29.24

Rear from Sprocketcenter: SUPERLITE (#16606R) RS7 Series 520 Pitch Steel Rear Sprocket - KAWASAKI SELECT TOOTH SIZE 43 Tooth

I will keep you guy infomed about the performance.

Ralph D II
Just out of Boston.

 

Hey Capt.

That's cool calculator.

When I did my Versys the speedo was dead on with the same ratio.

16/43 The bike cruises so much better but I did hear a tinny chain rub on the aluminum chain guard on the engine this morning heading into

Hi Ralph, funny you mentioned the chain rub. when my chain was loose about 1.5 inches tension. But now i brought it up to spec at 0.6-0.7 (0.4-0.8 spec in manual), i am hearing rubbing but not always, i am still figuring out which rpm it tends to do it. so far during slow accelerating from low speed to high speed. Accelerating fast seems to be just fine.

what causes the rub?