Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

2007 Vulcan classic Lt - Engine bogging and die

66 views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  Sabre-t  
#1 · (Edited)
Good afternoon! Apologies for the length of this but been at this onion for a minute. Bought it with this issue of bogging and dying after around 5 min. Had been sitting for a bit and Knew needed battery fuel filter changed and battery. Instead, changed the whole pump and replaced battery. Also changed the coil packs (had a broken connector, spark plugs and wires. Tank is clean, changed the fuel supply line (although not the dealer part. Used regular clamps and hose but seal is good). Checked power to everything, air filter is good, ECU seems fine- got no codes and all systems good. One other odd thing- the ECU fuse was completely blown and bike still running?? Even after ALL this crap the exact same problem hasn't been affected at all.

It's now a huge debate/ argument in the house as to what else it could be. I know it's something simple but can't see the forest for the trees at this point. Anybody got a clue?
 
#2 ·
If the tank is full, it could be a venting problem. If air cannot get into the tank, low pressure in the top air space can prevent gas from being pulled out of the tank. 5 min. is a pretty short time for that to happen, though, unless the tank is topped off. with minimal air space at the top. Is this 5 min or riding or just idling?

The vent line could be clogged. I'm not familiar with your model, but if that vent is under the gas cap and the cap is stuck and not allowing the vent to open, that could be the problem, too. Most likely the vent hose or the hole under the cap is clogged. Does it start up immediately after bogging down, or do you have to wait for a few minutes or hours? If the problem occurs while just idling and goes away if the gas cap is open, then it's almost certainly a vent and/or cap issue.

If it's not a venting problem, but is so repeatable, it could be an ignition coil getting hot and shorting out internally. It's not common, but it has been known to happen. Or it could be some other electrical issue that only shows up a circuit gets warmed up.
 
#3 ·
It's good at idle. Only starts to bog down when try to accelerate. There is only about a half tank of new gas. Haven't needed much in it due to constantly trying to trouble shoot everything. They are checking the fuel pressure today and have extra eyes to help check electric again.

Another thought- there was a recall notice several years ago on the ECU. The part number on the recall match the one on the bike but when checked with the vin# that wasn't one of the things it listed. Showed where something else had already been dealt with but not ECU. Could we have a bad ECU and not know it?

Also, if the fuel supply line coming from the fuel pump is not replaced with the OEM and is instead replaced with a generic fuel hose and o-clamp, could that cause this mess?
 
#4 ·
"Only starts to bog down when try to accelerate." That's very different from your first post where you stated "issue of bogging and dying after around 5 min." We can't help you if you don't provide an accurate and complete description of the problem.

If it's in a shop, why not wait until they find or can't find the problem before posting questions here? If it is a competent shop, they are more likely to figure it out with it in their hands than we are through forum postings. Especially when we aren't provided accurate information.
 
#5 ·
Sorry I didn't mean to be confusing. It will run at idle fine but after it warms up and try to accelerate it bogs down and dies. Then it won't start again. Several days go by in between working on it so I don't know how long it has to sit before it will stay at idle again.

No, it's not in the shop because there isn't one close by and typically any repairs are not an issue. Just can't chase down what needs to be repaired. At this point, checked all the obvious and major check points so all that's left is something really small and stupid.
 
#6 ·
"They are checking the fuel pressure today and have extra eyes to help check electric again." That's why I thought it might be in a shop. Who are "They"?

Well, the first thing is to determine if it is a venting problem by seeing how long it takes to start up again after dying. See if that time is someone consistent or if it is highly variable.

Looking back at your first post, I don't see how the ECU fuse can be blown and the bike still run unless someone has done some rewiring.