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Discussion Starter #1
After some good discussion in another thread, doing the ZX14 shock mod sounded interesting. We have a 1200 mile trip planned this summer and a way to absorb some of the bumps in the road sounds pretty appealing. I bought this shock from a parts recycler on eBay. I plan on doing a total rebuild with new seals, bearing, and fluid change, and while I am in there, I am aiming to shorten the rear stance on the bike by about an inch. The travel on the shock is short, maybe 3.5 to 4" total - I will get a baseline measurement soon. The stock eye to eye is about 12.8". The ratio for shock travel to swing arm travel is likely in the 3 to 1 ratio range. In order to get the rear suspension 1" lower, I will have to drop the E2E measurement down to about 12.5".

Here is the starting point, 2012 ZX14 shock with unknown miles or condition.
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These spring compressors make life easy for removing the lock rings.
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Relieve the air pressure and use a C clamp or similar to depress the bladder cap to get to the circlip. It helps to have a large thick washer or a large socket to protect the cap.
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Here I am stopped for the night. It wasn't leaking any oil, but I will be replacing the seal head assy and the bushing at the shim stack.
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I ran out of time to do a thorough cleaning tonight, but keeping things clean goes without saying. Sometime in the next day or two (hopefully), I will document the shortening process, strip and repaint from the outer tube, and get ready for reassembly.
 

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I few questions if you don't mind?
1. How did you release the air pressure?
2. How did you remove the piston (lower portion of shock)from the Assembly?

Looking Good!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1: These are self sealing type bladder caps. You need to get a needle.
I prefer the caps with Schrader valves, but you can't always get your way.

2: You just pry the cover off the top of the shock, push down on the seal head assy to reveal the circlip. Remove the clip and it all comes apart.

Most all Showa and KYB monoshocks likes these are very similar. This is a great video, it's for a MX shock, but they are disassembled basically the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
WTF? Out here in the PNW, they give syringes out to the junkies like candy, no questions asked, but that is a story for another forum. Amazon has them too, but wondering if they have the same policy.

If you want one, PM me your address and we will work something out. Most MC shops will have something, they can pressurize / de-pressurize.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the shim stack and other parts removed from the shaft (zip ties are a must to keep the shim stack organized). The was a bunch of crud that had settled in the oil passages for the rebound valve. New rebuild kit ordered for all the seals and O-rings, but that probably won't be here until Monday or Tuesday. Currently stripping the paint from the shock body, should able to get it painted this weekend sometime.
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I know, I was surprised to see them not selling to IL. I might take you up on the offer. Let me see if I can get it from Amazon.
So what do you think of the shock in general? Are you going to cut it down?
Don't forget to remove/shave off the upper arm/boss before painting.
Also were are you picking up the seals and orings?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, I was going to address any fitment issues before painting. I will be working a later shift for the next few weeks, I'll have more free time to work on the swap.

I'm still planning on lowering or limiting the shock travel. On my YZ, I used a spacer from a company called Zeta Racing and it dropped the height by 1".

I will likely have to fab something similar myself, but if I can't get it done right, then I won't lower it. I won't half ass it.

The seal kit I ordered from K-Tech Suspension USA - High Performance Motorcycle Suspension Parts but most suspension companies like Race Tech will have them. It's a 40mm bore and a 16mm shaft.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You know what? I just looked at what I ordered and it may be wrong, good catch on your part. I just entered the model and used the parts finder and it came up with part number 205-200-015, but the description states it's for a 40/14 KYB. I will send an email to them to verify and if you can wait a few days, I can tell you what I actually received. It might be a 14mm shaft, I know I saw the 16mm shaft note somewhere but on the Race Tech site, it shows part numbers like "SSOS 14" for an oil seal and I assume the "14" is referring to the diameter. I can also measure when I get off work and let you know the actual dimensions.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After looking through the Parts Unlimited catalog, the shaft should be 14mm. I don't know where or why I got the 16mm shaft size. For example, all the Kawasaki sport bikes, from 600cc to 1200cc, show p/n 1314-0149 for the head assy, which is 40x14 KYB shock. They don't list a head assy for the ZX14, but other parts of the catalog show a 14mm shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Just came across this today on the ZRXOA board. I also own a ZRX1200R
How to rebuild Shock.
You've been holding out, I love the ZRX. Before I had the Vulcan, I had an 85 ZL900 that I restored. One of the quickest bikes I have ever been on. Not great top speed, but 0 to 100 was hard to beat and sometimes hard to hold on to. I was a member of the ZLOA board and a lot of guys there transplanted the ZRX engine into the ZL frame and it made some wicked 1/4 mile bruisers. Here is one of the better examples.

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My old ZL, I loved this bike because you rarely saw another one, but after a near miss with a motorhome on the hwy near home, it was time to ride something a bit tamer. I do have my eye on the new Triumph Rocket 3R, but that's a lot of money for the 3 or 4000 miles I ride every year.

That link has some good info, the Showa and KYB are similar, you just have to be careful when removing the piston nut from a Showa shock.
 

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I almost pulled the trigger on the Zl. Very underestimated bike.
In full disclosure, I have a ZX10r and KZ750 still restoring.
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Both Bikes are Highly modified.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My brother in-laws neighbor owns a green ZX10, he loved the color so much he painted his house to match. Green on a bike is fine, on a house, not so much. Below is a google map capture. I wish I had the time and space for multiple projects, 2 bikes and a couple of vehicles and that's about my limit. I think garage space is my biggest issue, trying to get the wife to park outside hasn't been real successful and it will be a few years until I pull the trigger on a new house.
greeen house.JPG
 

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Love it!
Space has always kept me from having a true collection of bikes, and of course $$$$.
What diameter is the refill needle. Do you have a pic of it. Now I am thinking about a full rebuild.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It is literally a syringe needle, what you pay for in the Motion Pro and other kits is the fitting that connects it to a Schrader valve that keeps it coming apart at 150psi. The diameter of the needle is about .028", I am sure there are different diameters, but not sure if they are displayed in mm, in, or gauge.

I've hit a small bump in the rebuild. The seals were delivered today, but I am still waiting on the lowering shims. After I cut away the webbing between the mounting eye and shock body, I was looking at the rubber bushing. It was looking a litter deteriorated, so I pressed it out. Well, come to find out, that part is harder to find than one would think. I made the decision to remove the busing from the original shock and install it into the ZX shock. Big fat failure. The aluminum started to gall about 3/4 of the way in and the outer metal diameter of the bushing started to bend. So out came the new/old bushing before something got damaged. So either I find a bushing somehow, or find a bearing that will work. What makes it a pain, is that I cannot find actual dimension on products. I will probably have to call a suspension shop and see what they can do. I have a few local, but seriously, it's a $2 part. On the up side, the weather here is crap and will be for the next month, so I took the opportunity to have the ECU flashed. If anyone is interested in a Cobra FI2000R tuner, let me know. And if anyone has ideas on the shock bushing, input is appreciated.

I will add that for drilling out the clevis end, it's a 12mm bolt and the closes fractional size is 31/64. That's just a hair over 12mm. Just for a future FYI for whoever reads this down the road.
 

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Thanks for the needle info. Honestly I was thinking of using a Basketball needle. Too thick.

Sorry about the rubber bushing. I was lucky and mine is in good shape. Replace it with a polyurethane bushing. If it is not exact you can always file it down. I have done that many times on different shocks.
I bought a NOS PC3 and was very surprised on how well it works. If you are dyno tuning a flash is way better. Or using a exact setup. I had made my own intake and exhaust so the tuning fell on my shoulders. No issues and running strong. To self tune, a Tach is a most.
 
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