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Yeah I change it more frequently because to me it seems like it’s dirty at 3K. And I use Dino oil rather than synthetic
FWIW, Kawasaki makes no distinction between "dino" and synthetic regarding change interval.

I based my decision on my direct experience playing with extended drain intervals up to 25000 miles on one of my trucks. It was when I drove the truck quite a bit, pulling an 8 x 16 enclosed trailer a lot of the time It's the vehicle I own with the most miles and engine wise runs as good or better than any of the others. It was sufficient for me to conclude frequent oil changes don't appear to provide a material durability improvement. But, hey, each to their own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
FWIW, Kawasaki makes no distinction between "dino" and synthetic regarding change interval.

I based my decision on my direct experience playing with extended drain intervals up to 25000 miles on one of my trucks. It was when I drove the truck quite a bit, pulling an 8 x 16 enclosed trailer a lot of the time It's the vehicle I own with the most miles and engine wise runs as good or better than any of the others. It was sufficient for me to conclude frequent oil changes don't appear to provide a material durability improvement. But, hey, each to their own.
Yeah I know I could do it at a longer interval but it’s just a feel good thing because I don’t like seeing dirty oil.
 

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Last time I rode was last week. Snow started up here in Ontario, Canada. Not a lot of it but enough to make the roads treacherous. So I ordered the Euro gears and gaskets and I sent my ECU to Ivan. I will have a whole different V2K for the Spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Last time I rode was last week. Snow started up here in Ontario, Canada. Not a lot of it but enough to make the roads treacherous. So I ordered the Euro gears and gaskets and I sent my ECU to Ivan. I will have a whole different V2K for the Spring.
Can you give a ballpark what those gears cost you?
 

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On the euro gears subject. I know the highway cruise is greatly improved but what about that running around town stop and go traffic. What’s the pros and cons. I got my eye on a set right now. I tried the American stock gears flip and it was way top low. Hell you had to be running 80 to hit 5th gear and hope a hill was not coming.
 

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From what I read of other people that installed the eurogears, they enjoy the fact that they don't have to shift into second mid intersection anymore, or in the middle of a turn at a street corner. I look forward to enjoying the same things.
 

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What do you do to winterize? jack up the bike, remove the battery or put it on a tender, and what else? (One thing I try to do more so in the winter months, even if I’m riding, is to have the non-ethanol gas in my fuel system.) Curious because I might do it with my other bike, which is not very good for cold weather riding like my V2K

Whoareu: Just reread your post, so obviously you are changing the oil— you do that at the start of winter huh rather than in spring? I think I’ve heard of guys doing both—one or the other—but it seems like having fresh oil at the start of the spring season is preferred. What’s the rationale for doing it when you winterize? Again just curious and I just did my oil change like a month ago, so I’d rather not do it until I get 3K on there😁
Ok I live in the tropics and its just wet and dry, wet is not so bad cos its still warm, but I have lived where it fuck'n freezing and the thourt behind changing the oil at the start of the cold is to remove any acids and other nasties that have built up in the oil, and not let them sit there for many months, I change oil at the start of the wet and the dry, weather they need it or not (and every 5000) a gallon of bike oil is a hundred bucks and still cheap insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok I live in the tropics and its just wet and dry, wet is not so bad cos its still warm, but I have lived where it fuck'n freezing and the thourt behind changing the oil at the start of the cold is to remove any acids and other nasties that have built up in the oil, and not let them sit there for many months, I change oil at the start of the wet and the dry, weather they need it or not (and every 5000) a gallon of bike oil is a hundred bucks and still cheap insurance.
Well that makes sense. For me on changing oil, especially with this big Vulcan, it’s not so much the cost of the oil as it is a pretty big hassle to do the oil change, because I got spoiled with my Valkyrie it was just draining one plug and the filter and bam you’re done in 15 minutes. It took me roughly an hour to do the oil change on my V2K, so I might just let the interval go 5000 miles. I know the oil retains its lubricity, even conventional oil. I read up on it a lot and everybody is saying 3000 miles is a myth
 

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I’m using rottella t6 15-40 ( ever since the first oil change on this bike) and wix xp filter and I run a 5,000 mile intervals. Not because of this or that but because it’s easy to keep up with. Look at the odometer is it at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 so on and so on. “Keeping it simple stupid”. Say what you want to about my oil choices but 35,000 miles and running great and $21 bucks a gallon is great. To me the filtration is more important than the oil. I really want to spend more time on the road actually riding my bike than worrying do I have the most top of the line ‘tis or that. Hell that’s the whole definition of Harley Davidson. “ look at me I’m on a $40,000 bike with only 5,000 miles on it” My bike cost $4000 and I can ride right beside you all day long.

Sorry HD people about the ranting . I’d love to own one but just can’t stomach the price of one just to ride down the road with a fancy logo and a terrible attitude to fellow bikers who probably are riding more miles than you on a metric bike. Most of my buddies are HD riders and I give them hell all the time. “ saving the miles so I’ll have a higher trade in price “ just bs and bs and more bs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I’m using rottella t6 15-40 ( ever since the first oil change on this bike) and wix xp filter and I run a 5,000 mile intervals. Not because of this or that but because it’s easy to keep up with. Look at the odometer is it at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 so on and so on. “Keeping it simple stupid”. Say what you want to about my oil choices but 35,000 miles and running great and $21 bucks a gallon is great. To me the filtration is more important than the oil. I really want to spend more time on the road actually riding my bike than worrying do I have the most top of the line ‘tis or that. Hell that’s the whole definition of Harley Davidson. “ look at me I’m on a $40,000 bike with only 5,000 miles on it” My bike cost $4000 and I can ride right beside you all day long.

Sorry HD people about the ranting . I’d love to own one but just can’t stomach the price of one just to ride down the road with a fancy logo and a terrible attitude to fellow bikers who probably are riding more miles than you on a metric bike. Most of my buddies are HD riders and I give them hell all the time. “ saving the miles so I’ll have a higher trade in price “ just bs and bs and more bs.
No problem about HD bashing. My buddies get it from me too. And I get it from them! Difference is, as you point out, I'm riding a bike that--at least IMO--looks and performs just as well as theirs, but at about 10% the cost. But regarding Rotella--isn't that oil for cars, which has "friction modifiers" (like moly) that aren't wet-clutch friendly? I know guys been using that brand of oil forever--Valkyrie guys too--but wouldn't it make your clutch slip using car oil--Is that wrong?
 

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Great point and yes most people use it for big trucks but mine never slips and it’s got the motorcycle approval on the jug. Idk. May not be the super duper top of the line oil but it’s working and I got more pocket change of expenses on my trips with the wife ( she gets the top shelf treatment).
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well I guess if your clutch doesn’t slip you’re good to go. I had a Yamaha a royal star and put the wrong oil in it and the clutch slipped and I ended up having to change the clutch pack. After that I only put motorcycle oil in it, even though it was conventional. Actually I’m a little leery of some of the synthetic oil’s that seem to be so slick, they can theoretically make a clutch slip. Even the ones that say they’re good for motorcycle wet clutches. Anyway that’s another subject. Ride on man
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
If the oil label shows JASO MA/MA1/MA2 type of ratings it is OK for wet clutch. As always, check the owner's manual for the specifics of the approved oil types.
Well here’s the page out of my owners manual.
Font Material property Number Paper Plant


Pretty much leaves it wide open but I’m still of the opinion that friction modifiers (added to almost all car oils) aren’t good for a wet clutch. That’s based on experience. Castrol Go! is specially designed for motorcycles, and that’s what I’ve been using for the past few years in both of my bikes. It is conventional oil. It’s right around seven bucks a quart at my local auto parts store.
 

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Rectangle Font Parallel Terrestrial plant Screenshot
Did I mention it’s $21 bucks of a gal of full synthetic oil. No wear am I’m pushing anyone to using it but it’s really hard to beat it. Plus if you don’t use it that means more for me. Win win
 
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