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Recently as I pulled off from a stop the kickstand felt limp. As I turned right to enter traffic the stand swung out and the safety switch shut the engine off. I looked back to where I had been parked and there lay my springs. This happened on a charity ride stop at a dealer. They put my springs back on and zip tied them so they would not fall off again.

The springs fall off because the tab on the frame where the kickstand mounts wears and the tab itself wears. This extra movement lets the springs fall off. I fixed mine by boring out the frame tab to 1/2 inch. I used a 1/2" bolt with enough shoulder to replace the factory screw. This also required drilling out the top hole in the kickstand and rethreading the lower hole to the 1/2 13 threads per inch of the replacement bolt.

The message here is keep this joint lubricated.
 

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I just had the same problem tonight after the 40 mile, mostly highway, ride home from work. Luckily it happened in my driveway, and the spring didn't go bouncing off on I-84. The kickstand does feel a bit limp, and has some play it it. It seems to be a combination of bad design and poor assembly. First, the ends of the springs are too wide open, allowing them to move too much as they lose tension. If the ends of the springs were more curved and closed more, there would be less front to back movement when the stand was in the upright position. Second. There is nothing preventing them from sliding off the ends of the posts they are "attached" to. There is a slot on the posts that could hold a retaining clip in place, however I do not believe one is installed.

I did zip tie the lower end on, and will do the upper when I have a second set of hands to support the bike while I work. I am also going to get a set of retaining pins to try as a temporary fix to avoid having to drill and tap the hole on the mounting tab.
 

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So I just wanted to update with the status of my temporary repair: it failed. Last Sunday the kickstand fell down 3 times while riding, so this week I ordered a new stand, spring, pivot bolt, and nut. I pulled the whole assembly off, and sure enough the hole in the tab is slightly oblonged, but the pivot bolt also had about a 1/8 inch grove worn in it. The new bolt was the only part that hadn't come in yet, so I reassembled it with the old bolt for now. The new spring is strong enough to hold the stand in the full upright position without any play for now. When the new bolt comes in, I will be taking it to a specialty shop to see if I can get one with a larger shaft but same threads so I can drill the upper fork on the kickstanf and the mounting tab without having to drill and tap the lower portion of the kickstand. I also safety wired both ends of the spring onto the pegs. I will be ordering a couple extra springs just to have some spares incase of a mishap. I will update again with the info on a specialty bolt as soon as I have the specs.
 

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You need to drill the mounting hole out and put a brass/bronze sleeve in to fix the wear. Also there is a lot of play in the stand when its down, which causes some of this wear. All the weight of the bike makes it flex out at the pivot joint. I made a stainless steel shim washer to get rid of this flex/play when I did the 800 kickstand conversion on my 1600 nomad. Main thing is to keep this joint lubricated.
 

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I'm installing a garmin 660 and the cable included in package has a bare red and black lead. (Inline fuse protected)
Where is the best place to hook these up to?. I do have an adapter already in line to my battery for comm hookup.
Should i rig the bare wires direct to battery posts or use other wire feeds ? Or use an adapter ?
Thanks
 
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