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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, 1st some history. Last spring I ran the control wire at the bars internal in the bars, 12" mini apes. Mid summer I replaced the battery, tested bad. Moved from Ga. to Indiana last fall and trailered bike here, because it would not start. I could jump the selonoid to start it. Replaced selonoid before winter and it started several times just fine. Was leaving work one night and noticed the tail lights, and brake lights were not working. They still arent, once I push the brake pedal or pull the handle, fuse blows. Now its not starting again without jumping the selonoid. Battery was just taken off the charger right before I started checking it today. Took the start button apart and cleaned it thinking this could be the problem, no change. Its an 05 800 I bought new in feb 06, and all of the 114k plus miles on it are mine. Runs fine once started.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Was kinda hoping you might chime in here. Yes I do. To answer your next question I'm guessing, I do have a meter, its a Morris #57240 clamp meter. I work afternoons until early morning, so may take a bit to reply. Am off this weekend, so want to try to figure it out then if possible, but no real rush. Oh, this meter is much smarter than I am I believe.
 

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1. To verify, bike will not run or will not crank?
2. Did bike run after bars install?
3. Which fuse blows?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rode the bike last summer after wiring bars internally. About the end of July replaced the battery after it went bad, this is my 3rd battery since buying bike new in feb of 06.Hit starter button and get no response at all, dash light dont dim any any starter does not try to engage. The fuse that blows is for the tail light and brake lights, blows as soon as the brake switch is activated. If I jump the 2 large post on the selonoid, it'll start right up and runs fine.
 

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Ok, we will tackle the no crank first, and maybe will spot the fuse issue while doing this:

1. On junction box, locate black/red wire.
2. Push red meter lead down beside wire to contact pin.
3. Black meter lead to battery ground.
4. Key on, push start button and take voltage reading.

Post back with reading and any questions you may have.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
11.74 at connector, 12.50 at battery post. The 11.74 was at the plug on fuse box, this where you needed reading?
 

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OK:

1. On starter solenoid, push red meter lead down beside yellow/red wire to contact pin.
2. Key on, take reading. Push and hold start button and take another reading.

Post back with 2 readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Key on got 1.24 but slowly dropped until I took lead off. Key on, pushing start button 11.72, steady reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am getting a clicking sound when pushing the start button but not from the soleniod, its from the control box? beside the junction box that has the fuses in it. 1 light click when pushing button and another when I release it. Thinking bad solenoid already?
 

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One more test:

1. Meter red lead to "starter" side of solenoid.
2. Key on, push start button.

Post back with reading.
 

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Looks like solenoid is bad. Replace that so the starting issue is done, and then post back for us to start the fuse blowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Guess thats what I get for buying a cheap soleniod off ebay. May be saturday before I can get to a dealer to get a new one, may have to order. Thank you very much for the help so far, you are a trouble shooting god.
 

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rick I went with your psi of 33F/37R on my Michelin Commander II tires
 

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rick, I should start a new oil thread, cause in my searching around I learned some things about synthetics versus conventional dino, and I was going to put in rotella T5 15w40 syn-blend but went with T4 15w40 conventional instead
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Narrowed down the fuse problem. Tried unplugging the front switch and fuse still blows as soon as I apply rear brake.Plugged it back in, replaced fuse, unplugged rear switch and brake light works now with the front brake.
 

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sorry I thought you were done the thread
 
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