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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok first I did the back off brake light mod, and Electrical Connection Turn Signal Conversion Kit.

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/turn-signal-conversion-kit/part/EC-01315?source=igodigital

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/back-off-brake-light-signal-module/part/SD-1001

Ok my question is, I order Saddlebags With LED Tail Lights And LED Sidemarkers lights,Each tailight has 13 white LED lights and Each sidemarker has 7 white LED lights, And the trunk has LED Spoiler lights.

Will all these LED and my normal running lights over power my stator?

I was reading on this forum somewhere some people were adding LED turn-signal, And for them to work they had to add (?) I forgot the name of the part! Any ways would I need to get that part too?

http://www.ridebikegear.com/xl-series-xlarge-fiberglass-saddlebags-with-led-tail-lights-and-sidemarkers-p-218.html

http://www.ridebikegear.com/tp-extra-large-motorcycle-tour-pak-with-wrap-around-backrest-large-top-rack-and-slimline-led-spoiler-p-230.html
 

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I'd venture an opinion and say no problem. If you read the packages they should have a total wattage or amperage rating. Add each of them up an post the total here. Post both Amps and Watts separately. Opinion is based on the continuous draw of the turn signals and considering the low amperage draw of LEDs in general. Item #2, I think you are talking about a load equalizer. the are required when replacing our incadescent turn signals with LEDs. The answer is a qualified maybe. If you have replaced the standard lights with LEDs and have not also changed out the turn signal flasher to a non-load-dependant type, then yes you may need one. If you have only added LEDs the answer would be no. Clear as mud, right? So, tell us, have you replaced the standard lamps with LEDs?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd venture an opinion and say no problem. If you read the packages they should have a total wattage or amperage rating. Add each of them up an post the total here. Post both Amps and Watts separately. Opinion is based on the continuous draw of the turn signals and considering the low amperage draw of LEDs in general. Item #2, I think you are talking about a load equalizer. the are required when replacing our incadescent turn signals with LEDs. The answer is a qualified maybe. If you have replaced the standard lights with LEDs and have not also changed out the turn signal flasher to a non-load-dependant type, then yes you may need one. If you have only added LEDs the answer would be no. Clear as mud, right? So, tell us, have you replaced the standard lamps with LEDs?
No I haven't change out any of the normal lights, just going to be adding the bags and trunk thats has LEDs light on them, So by what you are saying I wont be needing an load equalizer?
 

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First off, to rid a little misconception;

The stator is always at 100%. Always. It doesn't make more or less juice when you add accessories. Can you damage it? Yes, but more likely you'll have a few dead batteries first and/or damage other components first. You have a little device called a regulator/rectifier that takes whatever power the stator makes that you don't use and throws it away (dumps it to ground).

There's an easy test! Turn off ALL of your accessories (if possible), and start the bike. Take a multi-meter across the battery leads. Raise the engine up to about 3,000 RPM's (have a buddy, or just crank the idle speed up), and test the charging voltage. Now turn ON all of your accessories, and see where it's at. As long as it doesn't drop more than a few tenths of a volt, your fine. If it drops below 12.5 volts or so, you've got a problem. (Though with that load I would venture to say a stator issue, not a load issue) If you aren't sure, just ask. Post your readings in the thread and someone who knows about that sort of stuff will let you know if it's okay or not. (Especially watch for sfair to jump into those threads, he knows his stuff)

Again, chances are, if you have too much stuff, the battery will die by the end of a ride or two (or it'll seem to crank sluggishly after using accessories) because the battery will have to 'fill in' where the stator isn't providing. That's a sign you're overdoing it, but you aren't likely to burn anything out right away.

On the load equalizer, if there are still regular bulbs in the circuit, I don't THINK you need one. The reason for a load equalizer is because the flasher unit on your bike works on load (though you can replace it with an electronic one that doesn't rely on load) to make it flash. If the load is too low, it'll hyperflash. Having the other turn signals still in the circuit, should keep the load up.

Just a little 'opinion' to throw out here but, on the back of your bike, I think brake lights are much more important than turn signals. Consider just sticking with your stock turn signals and using your extra LED's as run/brake lights?

FWIW I have a stereo, two LED extra tail lights mounted on a top case, and an iPhone charger, and my charging voltage stays within spec (meaning I'm not using more electricity than the stator is producing)

Again using above Kawasaki's recommended load is NOT what kills stators. You'll blow fuses, or kill batteries first.
 

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So I guess that begs the question: What does kill the stator? Is it just a poorly engineered item and it needs to be a bit beefier, or what? There seem to be enough cases of failed stators on this board to suggest that the stator in the 900 Vulcan is just barely adequate.
 

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So I guess that begs the question: What does kill the stator? Is it just a poorly engineered item and it needs to be a bit beefier, or what? There seem to be enough cases of failed stators on this board to suggest that the stator in the 900 Vulcan is just barely adequate.
Thin insulation around the coils, vibration makes the insulation wear a hole, shorts out, bada-bing bada-burn!
 

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stators

Thin insulation around the coils, vibration makes the insulation wear a hole, shorts out, bada-bing bada-burn!
I believe that it's the above in combination with heat. Heat is the enemy of things electric. Thermal expansion and contraction. Add vibration and the failure mode excels.
 

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stator

Thin insulation around the coils, vibration makes the insulation wear a hole, shorts out, bada-bing bada-burn!
Vibration compounded by thermal expansion and contraction (when cooling). Heat is the death knell of all things electric/electronic. Add vibration and the process accelerates.
 

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ive said it before.... out of around 150 vulcan 900s sold at my local dealer still 0 reports of a stator failure.......and yes i know John for saying that i will be the first lol :p
 

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Vibration compounded by thermal expansion and contraction (when cooling). Heat is the death knell of all things electric/electronic. Add vibration and the process accelerates.
That certainly makes sense. On mine, and everyone else (Vulcan 900 or otherwise, it's a "common" failure item on LOTS of motorcycles) who cared to really look at the failure, a section (often very small) of completely worn, cracked, or peeled insulation was found along with scorch marks where it had arced!

I just hope that if and when my stator takes a dump that there is an improved on available on the aftermarket.
The Rick's stator is much better. The OEM stator uses a very thin plastic-y insulation, the Rick's stator uses a very rough textured, thick and heavy insulation that seems like something that was brushed or sprayed on, which might mean it's less likely to crack or peel under the conditions described above by Bear.

ive said it before.... out of around 150 vulcan 900s sold at my local dealer still 0 reports of a stator failure.......and yes i know John for saying that i will be the first lol :p

There will be no mercy if it does happen to you, I ASSURE you! But you are right, people don't get on forums to talk about the stuff that works, they get on the forums to talk about the stuff that brakes. A couple dozen stator failures reported here amidst one of the most popular cruisers on the market (far and away the most popular cruiser on this forum), is really not that substantial. The guy with 150k on his VN900 was getting 50k/stator while some of us lost it at 15k. Also, post '07 models seem really quiet about the stator issue so I'm thinking there might have been a sneaky improvement over a minor defect, or just a 'batch' of bad ones. It happens.

I will say this though, I and most on this forum did not 'report' our stator failures to the dealer. I ain't payin' them no $1,200 to do a one hour job with a $150 part I could do with hand tools in a poorly lit garage with no mechanical abilities and STILL not have very many parts leftover! LOL

But, yes, when you're out on a ride, enjoying the birds and a beautiful day, and suddenly hear WHIIIRRRRRRR out the left side of your bike, you sir, will never hear the end of it :p
 

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one thing about where i live is that its a small place and i would guess 90% or more of riders would not know alternate sources for a stator so the dealer would be the first place to look to get a price if nothing else....... the strangest part is as far as i have been told 0 stators but aprox 5 throttle body replacements.. including mine and i have only seen maybe 2 or 3 reports of TB replacements on here....
 

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one thing about where i live is that its a small place and i would guess 90% or more of riders would not know alternate sources for a stator so the dealer would be the first place to look to get a price if nothing else....... the strangest part is as far as i have been told 0 stators but aprox 5 throttle body replacements.. including mine and i have only seen maybe 2 or 3 reports of TB replacements on here....
Well everything IS backwards in Canada.
 
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