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Discussion Starter #1
I have owned four of these bikes now and was wondering what other owners who have actually accumulated some miles have or have not seen for problems with these bikes.I have a tendency to switch bikes often so have never really put a lot of miles on any of the four.I did have a 2009 that dripped some coolant at about 3000 miles which I resolved by tightening some hose clamps under the gas tank.Also had small amounts of oil form (same bike) on the wiring harness that runs to the regulator.Never did resolve that problem.I never had any of the frequently talked of belt noise and never experienced stator failure but I never put more than 4500 miles on any of the four bikes.Please state year,mileage,and whether modifications may have caused the problem when responding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank you for the reply.I have went to both bigger and smaller bikes from the 900 and back to the 900.Guess I missed mine too.Hoping to keep this one for awhile since I purchased it new which, I normally do not do because of depreciation.
 

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About 12,000 miles on my '07 900 Classic LT - replaced stator and three batteries - only problems. But I ride less now with my increasing age!
 

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2011 custom (new old stock Purchased Jan 2014). Drive pulley nut came lose around 12k miles?? Started to make a noise when coasting with throttle off. This resulted in some wear to the drive pulley and output spline shaft. After extensive research i have concluded this is not a frequent problem but not all that rare either.

I believe root of the problem is that Kawasaki does not use anti fretting compound on assembly (Seafair recommends anti fretting compound. Proper repair requires engine removal cases split and pulley and output shaft replacement $3000 repair.

I recommend owners check the drive pulley for tightness every 5,000 miles. This requires removing the drive belt from the drive pulley. There should be ZERO slop between the drive pulley and output shaft.

Assuming everything is tight, IN MY OPINION the pulley should be removed anti fretting compound applied a new retaining washer and locktite applied to the locking nut threads, also run the belt with 7-8mm play more in line with other makes for belt drive tension.

If there is any play/slop in the drive pulley it must be addressed. Simply tightening the pulley nut without addressing the slop is NOT a repair as this will be very temporary fix.

I have a temporary repair using locktite 660, a metal paste hardening filler used for filling slop voids in spline shafts and keyways. Not sure how long this will last around 1500 miles on the repair so far will keep my fingers crossed.

WB
 

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Discussion Starter #9
2011 custom (new old stock Purchased Jan 2014). Drive pulley nut came lose around 12k miles?? Started to make a noise when coasting with throttle off. This resulted in some wear to the drive pulley and output spline shaft. After extensive research i have concluded this is not a frequent problem but not all that rare either.

I believe root of the problem is that Kawasaki does not use anti fretting compound on assembly (Seafair recommends anti fretting compound. Proper repair requires engine removal cases split and pulley and output shaft replacement $3000 repair.

I recommend owners check the drive pulley for tightness every 5,000 miles. This requires removing the drive belt from the drive pulley. There should be ZERO slop between the drive pulley and output shaft.

Assuming everything is tight, IN MY OPINION the pulley should be removed anti fretting compound applied a new retaining washer and locktite applied to the locking nut threads, also run the belt with 7-8mm play more in line with other makes for belt drive tension.

If there is any play/slop in the drive pulley it must be addressed. Simply tightening the pulley nut without addressing the slop is NOT a repair as this will be very temporary fix.

I have a temporary repair using locktite 660, a metal paste hardening filler used for filling slop voids in spline shafts and keyways. Not sure how long this will last around 1500 miles on the repair so far will keep my fingers crossed.

WB
I remember the post on that problem.I hope the fix holds up for you.Thank you for replying to this thread.
 

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I bought a 900 with 2007 with like 18000 miles on it, drove it for another 15k and sold it, it was running perfect when I sold, I think the stator had been replaced before I got it, didn't really even read up on the need to adjust the valves, before I sold it, but kind of glad I did since I'm not sure if anybody adjusted the valves at 15,000 like they're supposed to be and I know that I did not adjust them. Just bought a 2008 Vulcan switching back out of a Goldwing, because I love this bike so much, for a number of reasons over the Goldwing, less turbulence, smoother ride, tons less Heat ,15 more miles to the gallon!! Anyway I adjusted the valves at 18000 they were a little off but not much. I would think as long as you do your valve adjustments, and normal other stuff, radiator fluid on time, oil, brake fluid , you're going to have little worries! I think I'll always keep one of these in my garage even if I do go back to some sort of touring, it will not be an old Goldwing though! The only thing I miss about the Goldwing was the seat! 5 to6 our rides were nothing, my butt could only take about 40 minutes on the stock Vulcan, just did the mean City Cycles upgrade, seems to add about another 30 minutes before butt burn , wish I could afford the day-long Russell!
 

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By the time I sold mine at 42000 miles, I had replaced the stator (30,000 miles) and the battery once. I was on my 2nd front tire and 3rd rear. I also had to replace my steering head bearings at around 35,000 miles. Other than a couple of bolts coming loose I had no other problems with this awesome motorcycle.
 

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40k on a 2007 900 Custom. Only problem was an output shaft bearing failure at 22k. No amount of tightening the nut can make a difference once there is excessive play in the bearing. The bearing failure also created a small oil leak.

Engine was removed, case spit, and new bearing installed under GTPP.

Stator failure at 40K, lucky I had roadside and free towing.
 

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By the time I sold mine at 42000 miles, I had replaced the stator (30,000 miles) and the battery once. I was on my 2nd front tire and 3rd rear. I also had to replace my steering head bearings at around 35,000 miles. Other than a couple of bolts coming loose I had no other problems with this awesome motorcycle.
How did you know your steering head bearing was bad?
 

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25k .... 08 purchase, I have not even changed the battery, then again I run it on a battery tender all year round.
 

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40k on a 2007 900 Custom. Only problem was an output shaft bearing failure at 22k. No amount of tightening the nut can make a difference once there is excessive play in the bearing. The bearing failure also created a small oil leak.

Engine was removed, case spit, and new bearing installed under GTPP. Running just fine since the repair.
Wow, how much did that repair cost? Engine removed and case split? wow.
 
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