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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I rode a 1100 v star today. You can tell the difference in the extra 200 cc Never really thought I would. If I was to add this fuel processor, with an intake. What gains could I see?? I have all ready debaffled the pipes. Not looking to get pipes. Since I am happy with the debaffled pipes. Are we talking 5 hp or like 15 hp?? Or just a little better throttle response. My bike is a 2012 classic lt

Cobra Fi2000R PowrPro Tuner Auto Tune http://www.compacc.com/p/Cobra-Fi2000R-PowrPro-Tuner-Kawasaki-VN900-06-10

Arlen Ness Scalloped Billet Sucker Air Cleaner https://www.denniskirk.com/arlen-ness/scalloped-billet-sucker-air-cleaner-assembly.p184169.prd/184169.sku
 

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I rode a 1100 v star today. You can tell the difference in the extra 200 cc Never really thought I would. If I was to add this fuel processor, with an intake. What gains could I see?? I have all ready debaffled the pipes. Not looking to get pipes. Since I am happy with the debaffled pipes. Are we talking 5 hp or like 15 hp?? Or just a little better throttle response.

Cobra Fi2000R PowrPro Tuner Auto Tune http://www.compacc.com/p/Cobra-Fi2000R-PowrPro-Tuner-Kawasaki-VN900-06-10

Arlen Ness Scalloped Billet Sucker Air Cleaner https://www.denniskirk.com/arlen-ness/scalloped-billet-sucker-air-cleaner-assembly.p184169.prd/184169.sku
I have this set up, plus removed the secondary butterflies. It is a noticeable difference. Pulls much stronger, very reponsive. I can jump on the throttle on the freeway and it jumps. There are dyno reports that have been posted on this forum showing an increase to 58-60 HP with pipes / intake / processor. Very pleased.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is the butterflies different on a 2012?? Since they changed throttle bodies. The 2012 has digital injection so would I still see a fair gain with the stock debaffled pipes.

New For 2012
Dual throttle bodies with sub-throttles that provide an optimal rider experience.
Sub-throttles are located behind the main throttle. This helps to retain a more precise throttle response.
Rear tire is the largest in the class. The rear tire is part of the 180-series.
Improved fuel economy due to the digital fuel injection. The digital fuel injection also helps deliver a precise throttle response.
Positive neutral finder that allows the rider to find neutral with ease. Simply lift the pedal from first gear while stopped.
A temperature warming light that is now part of the liquid and air cooling system. Automatic fans help to keep everything cool while the bike is motion.


Read more: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/2012/kawasaki/vulcan_900/classic_lt/94835/05/#ixzz2eGIOlurY
 

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Is the butterflies different on a 2012?? Since they changed throttle bodies. The 2012 has digital injection so would I still see a fair gain with the stock debaffled pipes.

New For 2012
Dual throttle bodies with sub-throttles that provide an optimal rider experience.
Sub-throttles are located behind the main throttle. This helps to retain a more precise throttle response.
Rear tire is the largest in the class. The rear tire is part of the 180-series.
Improved fuel economy due to the digital fuel injection. The digital fuel injection also helps deliver a precise throttle response.
Positive neutral finder that allows the rider to find neutral with ease. Simply lift the pedal from first gear while stopped.
A temperature warming light that is now part of the liquid and air cooling system. Automatic fans help to keep everything cool while the bike is motion.


Read more: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/2012/kawasaki/vulcan_900/classic_lt/94835/05/#ixzz2eGIOlurY
Thought all the 900s had digital injectors? Not sure about all the rest of the changes, other than mine did come with a 180 size rear tire.

So, I would not mess with the butterflies unless you know for sure. You'll get some great performance with the big three you have planned.
 

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Mine is a 2012 model. Its fine to remove the secondary throttle plates on this model, makes a big difference just doing that, and its easy. I did the Cobra intake, Cobra auto tune processor, and exhaust debaffle. Like Bosco says, they really go well after that. I removed all the air pipe crap and solenoid as well as its a waste of time, put the resister in the plug that goes on solenoid to stop Fi light coming on. Do the breather hose mod by running it up under the tank and back down to air cleaner and it stops all oil blow by into air cleaner, good fix that one. I took the fast idle cam off as well, it annoyed me no end, its not a choke just a fast idle that works off air temp, which is stupid, even when motor is hot fast idle kicks in when you start it all the time. They should have set that up to work off coolant temp, not air.
 

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Mine is a 2012 model. Its fine to remove the secondary throttle plates on this model, makes a big difference just doing that, and its easy. I did the Cobra intake, Cobra auto tune processor, and exhaust debaffle. Like Bosco says, they really go well after that. I removed all the air pipe crap and solenoid as well as its a waste of time, put the resister in the plug that goes on solenoid to stop Fi light coming on. Do the breather hose mod by running it up under the tank and back down to air cleaner and it stops all oil blow by into air cleaner, good fix that one. I took the fast idle cam off as well, it annoyed me no end, its not a choke just a fast idle that works off air temp, which is stupid, even when motor is hot fast idle kicks in when you start it all the time. They should have set that up to work off coolant temp, not air.
I'm intrigued.... Removing the air switch and fast idle cam? How easy are those mods to complete.
 

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I'm intrigued.... Removing the air switch and fast idle cam? How easy are those mods to complete.
Very easy Bosco.

If you mean how is the fast idle cam removed, its just a nut that holds it on, undo that take the cam off, I put some little washers in its place the same thickness as cam and put nut back on. The shaft still works but without the cam on it it doesn't lift the revs.
Its similar to the throttle plate removal in the fact that the shaft still works on that as well but without the plates it does nothing to hinder throttle operation.
I found not having the fast idle does not effect the way the bike starts and runs even in cold weather as it not a choke its just a fast idle.

Now the air solenoid I just took everything off and capped the pipes on top of rocker covers. then you are left with the plug that use to go on the air switching valve I think its called , You put a resister in that plug and that stops Fi light coming on. I cant remember the resister size from memory, I wrote a post somewhere here on the one I used, I was thanking Sfair and telling him that the resister worked like a charm. Bike looks a lot cleaner without all that junk on there. I hate stuff that does nothing.
 

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I'm intrigued.... Removing the air switch and fast idle cam? How easy are those mods to complete.
You can actually adjust the fast idle cam to have less, or no, influence on the idle of your engine. Remove the air cleaner so you have an unobstructed view of the throttle body. Locate the pulley where the throttle cables attach and (engine off) using the grip, fully open the throttle. Located on the pulley is a screw adjustment. It's been a while but I think turning the screw in will move the knob the cam touches further away from the cam. Anyway that's what you want to accomplish. If the cold start idle doesn't suit you, you can always re-adjust the screw to where you're happy.
 

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Guys, thanks for the tips. May try the adjustment first. I just don't like how high it idles to warm up (even in warm So. Cal.). Maybe just turn it down a bit to start.
 
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