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Mobile 1 4T. Not sure if I notice any difference from dino oil. I use synthetic based on recommendations from the people on these forums.

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Romans: You said you had a used oil analysis done. How is that done and who does it?

I am not interested in having it done but it reminds me of military jet engines. All military jet engines, upon shutting down from running the engine, get what is called a "SOAP" sample done.

I forget what "SOAP" stands for but essentially a small portion of the oil is drained and taken to a local, on-base, facility that will burn it to acquire its spectrum which tells the types of and quantity of metals present. This is to determine how the operational quality-of-life for the engine is going. If too much of type "X" metal is present, it may mean its time to pull the engine and replace a certain part. If too much of another type metal is present it suggest a different maintenance approach be taken to fix it, if needed at all.

Of course, they have very detailed procedures for each type engine so they know what metals are where in the engine and what kind of variations for each type reading means what kind of maintenance response is indicated from the SOAP sample.

Somehow I have difficulty thinking that civilian motorcycle manufacturers, or oil manufacturers have those type of extensive procedures set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Blackstone labs is one place that does oil analysis. I have done a few vehicle oil analysis and a Virgin oil analysis. They send you the oil bottle kit for free. You pay for the analysis.
 

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I've been using teflon pipe tape on vehicle bung plugs for years.
Never leaks, it takes very little torque to seat, and the low torque makes me comfy when putting steel plug into threaded aluminum, heck I even use it on the filler plug.
Temperature range for the tape is about 500 degrees F, or plenty!
 

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Crisco, I use super extra virgin olive oil imported from the food cart at the Ducati Factory. I'm not sure it's so good for the motor but the calamari I cook in the crankcase are great, in addition, housecats follow me around like I'm the Pied Piper.
 

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trade dispute panel had ruled in shell oil company's favor allowing shell to label their T6 5w40 'synthetic'. their ruling was based on the word 'synthetic' on the jug as being a 'marketing' term and not a 'chemical' makeup term of chemistry. some other oil makers have also followed suit and use the word 'synthetic' on their jugs based on the trade panel's ruling and some other oil makers are actually making their oil of a true synthetic chemical base formula. I think the trade panel has left it up to the consumer themselves to know what they are buying. marketing lawyers won, chemists lost, just sayin'
 

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trade dispute panel had ruled in shell oil company's favor allowing shell to label their T6 5w40 'synthetic'. their ruling was based on the word 'synthetic' on the jug as being a 'marketing' term and not a 'chemical' makeup term of chemistry. some other oil makers have also followed suit and use the word 'synthetic' on their jugs based on the trade panel's ruling and some other oil makers are actually making their oil of a true synthetic chemical base formula. I think the trade panel has left it up to the consumer themselves to know what they are buying. marketing lawyers won, chemists lost, just sayin'
Just Sayin, Link?
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
trade dispute panel had ruled in shell oil company's favor allowing shell to label their T6 5w40 'synthetic'. their ruling was based on the word 'synthetic' on the jug as being a 'marketing' term and not a 'chemical' makeup term of chemistry. some other oil makers have also followed suit and use the word 'synthetic' on their jugs based on the trade panel's ruling and some other oil makers are actually making their oil of a true synthetic chemical base formula. I think the trade panel has left it up to the consumer themselves to know what they are buying. marketing lawyers won, chemists lost, just sayin'
I believe the lawsuit was Mobil 1 vs Castrol.

Group III and III+ is re-engineered so it is concidered synthetic. Base oil is important but the additive package is also important if not more so.
 

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The main difference between motorcycle oils and automotive oils is (supposedly - see the next paragraph) the amount of ZDDP (Zinc Dithiophosphate) and the addition of friction modifiers to auto oil. ZDDP acts as a last gasp measure to reduce wear of metal on metal. What this means is that as the oil breaks down, it provides less lubrication. ZDDP extends that protection a little longer than the oil would otherwise provide. With the advent of synthetic oils, especially fully synthetic oils, ZDDP is less necessary unless you do not change oil often enough. It still helps to reduce metal on metal wear, but it is not nearly as important as it used to be if you are using a synthetic oil. It is very important if you still run a traditional oil and go more that about 3K miles between oil changes.

ZDDP concentration in oil is regulated. It causes damage to catalytic converters. Many motorcycles have catalytic converters, so it is regulated to the same extent for motorcycle or automotive oils. It has been a few years so I don't have any links, but I saw the data from testing of a number of auto and motorcycle oils. The amount of ZDDP within a brand of oil and type (traditional or synthetic) was pretty consistent without regard to being auto or MC oil. The main difference between the auto and MC oils was the friction modifiers.

It sucks that we have to pay more to have friction modifier additives left out.
 

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Answering the OP's question: I just changed to Mobile 1 V-Twin 20W50 synthetic. Using it here in Texas this summer to see if bike will run a few degrees cooler vs conventional. Not expecting anything drastic, but maybe a couple of degrees. We will see.
 

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The main difference between motorcycle oils and automotive oils is (supposedly - see the next paragraph) the amount of ZDDP (Zinc Dithiophosphate) and the addition of friction modifiers to auto oil. ZDDP acts as a last gasp measure to reduce wear of metal on metal. What this means is that as the oil breaks down, it provides less lubrication. ZDDP extends that protection a little longer than the oil would otherwise provide. With the advent of synthetic oils, especially fully synthetic oils, ZDDP is less necessary unless you do not change oil often enough. It still helps to reduce metal on metal wear, but it is not nearly as important as it used to be if you are using a synthetic oil. It is very important if you still run a traditional oil and go more that about 3K miles between oil changes.

ZDDP concentration in oil is regulated. It causes damage to catalytic converters. Many motorcycles have catalytic converters, so it is regulated to the same extent for motorcycle or automotive oils. It has been a few years so I don't have any links, but I saw the data from testing of a number of auto and motorcycle oils. The amount of ZDDP within a brand of oil and type (traditional or synthetic) was pretty consistent without regard to being auto or MC oil. The main difference between the auto and MC oils was the friction modifiers.

It sucks that we have to pay more to have friction modifier additives left out.
That is the point you don't, I run Rotella T6 5W-40, does great.:pirate:
 

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Answering the OP's question: I just changed to Mobile 1 V-Twin 20W50 synthetic. Using it here in Texas this summer to see if bike will run a few degrees cooler vs conventional. Not expecting anything drastic, but maybe a couple of degrees. We will see.
I would be really surprised if it does, main thing is how it holds up under motorcycle wear and tear, bikes put a pretty good shear on oil. Look forward to seeing what you find out.
 

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That is the point you don't, I run Rotella T6 5W-40, does great.:pirate:
I have had bad results for other Shell Rotella versions in the past with another bike. T6 may be better than the ones I used, but I don't care to risk their products again. I like Royal Purple, but they do not have 10W-40 or 20W-50 without friction modifiers except for the MC versions. My opinion, but I don't think 5W-40 provides adequate cold cranking protection unless a vehicle has been specifically designed to use an oil with 5W cold viscosity. Oils with cold viscosity that low do not leave enough of a film on surfaces when the engine cools off. Like I say, that is just my opinion.
 

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I have had bad results for other Shell Rotella versions in the past with another bike. T6 may be better than the ones I used, but I don't care to risk their products again. I like Royal Purple, but they do not have 10W-40 or 20W-50 without friction modifiers except for the MC versions. My opinion, but I don't think 5W-40 provides adequate cold cranking protection unless a vehicle has been specifically designed to use an oil with 5W cold viscosity. Oils with cold viscosity that low do not leave enough of a film on surfaces when the engine cools off. Like I say, that is just my opinion.

Whut??????? Engine off, no pumping, Oil hanging on to parts for dear life waiting for next crank over... film strength of straight 50 vs 5w would be about the same after a couple of days. There is no oil there. Sha-boom. Fathom that.
 

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Whut??????? Engine off, no pumping, Oil hanging on to parts for dear life waiting for next crank over... film strength of straight 50 vs 5w would be about the same after a couple of days. There is no oil there. Sha-boom. Fathom that.
Respectfully, I totally disagree.
 
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Amsoil Metric 10w-40
 

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Just put Full Synthetic QuickSilver 10-40 Motorcycle specific oil in my 2012 900 Classic LT even though it just had its first 600 mile service with oil change about 300 miles ago. Was curious of what the results would be and was very pleased. Right away I had much smoother shifting up and down and the throttle response was quicker. This was from 7 dollar a quart oil from Wal-Mart. I would have used Amsoil but it is not available here in the Birmingham area. I did buy a gallon of Amsoil when stopped by a motorcycle dealer about 30 miles from my home when taking a ride, so I will try it next oil change. Gotta tell you though, at $50.00 a gallon it should be really good. The QuickSilver at Walmart is less than $30.00 for 4 quarts and adds a marked performance increase over synthetic blend. Try the QuickSilver, think you will be pleased.
 
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