Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just bought 1996 Classic 800 w/18K miles—my second one to own. NOTE: I did a title check and it has changed hands many times and in short periods of time indicating no PO’s could fix the bike. I don’t want to be a title statistic. LOL I think I found the problem.

Symptoms: Bike starts right up with choke on and idles only on choke. Take if off choke it dies, or if you throttle it with choke off, it barely runs with seemingly no power. Drove it around block. No power. Will not idle with choke off. Compression 165 and 175 (cold). All valve clearances set perfectly by me, first thing I checked. All were out of spec and 2 intakes were at zero.

1. Classic pilot jet plugged symptom, right? Disassembled and cleaned carb, it was pristine.
2. Drained gas, milky in color. Orange tint. Changed gas. No improvement (NI).
3. There was a little fuel filter with inline 1/4 turn valve. Restriction? Took it all off and put on factory fuel line. NI.
4. Petcock leaks on both RES and ON. Replaced w/OEM petcock. NI. Replaced vacuum line from petcock to carb. NI.
5. Pulled coils, both tested good per Kawa manual.
6. Trimmed coil leads and plug leads and reinserted. NI.
7. Finally I checked for sparks using both the plugs and spark tester. I found a weak orange spark on front. NO SPARK on rear! (SEE POST #19)
8. Swapped wires. NI.
9. Swapped coils, same as if I’d not swapped them. Weak orange spark on front, no spark on rear.
10. Tested pick up coil per Kawa manual. Tested good.
11. Continuity good from IC Igniter to rear coil.

So I tested the IC Igniter per Kawa manual. I have a Fluke digital but did not use it per reading Kawa manual and forums. So I bought an analog and used it to perform test. (I know about what the Kawa manual states about only using theirs, but I have read it’s not so much their brand as it is using an analog. Besides, if you have resistance where you are supposed to have infinity, the exact reading doesn’t matter.)

I did a meticulous test and wrote down all measurements. 68 total checks. Pin 5 showed continuity (resistance) on 5 of the 7 tests where it should have been infinity. There were 3 other readings on Pin 5 way out of range.

This brings me to the reason for this post: Before I spend big bucks on an IC Igniter, did I miss anything? Any other checks I need to do? I’m convinced the IC Igniter is bad because of Pin 5 resistances, but how many times have we been “convinced” only to find we missed something. All input appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
New plugs. Other than some idling and a slow/sluggish ride around the block, not much mileage on them. Clean plug from rear.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
More info: Bike had a new OEM coil on rear as well as a new aftermarket plug wire. This would indicate the POs knew of the no spark issue. Another fact: IC igniter bolts were loose indicating it had been removed and put back maybe. Here is the back of the igniter which does not look normal, looks like the filler is rotten or a PO tried digging it out.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Air box and jets are stock. Exhaust is Cobra (w/baffles inside).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I figured you would ask, and I almost posted it originally. LOL Commercial Electric M1015B 300v CAT II. (From Home Depot)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #10

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
That meter has a X10 and a X1k scale.
There are some things that an analog meter does better than a digital.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok, let me know if I need to check or recheck some things. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for your offering to help out. Here is my plan, right or wrong: I found a long time super-seller on eBay who is sending me a used IC Igniter that he says is good and came off a running bike. Price was fair. eBayer is a long time reputable seller who I have bought from before and told me that I could return the igniter for a full refund if it does not correct my problem--no questions asked. Never heard of that w/electronics, so I took him up on it!

Meanwhile back at the ranch . . . I'm ordering the X1 multimeter per your suggestion, so we can start troubleshooting. I'd like to find the root cause of the problem before I reassemble. I'll holler when it arrives. Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
UPDATE: The used IC Igniter came in and I also tested it per Kawa manual before installing--2 pins tested outside spec. WTH (Seller said he will refund if I want.) I installed it anyway, and I now have spark at the rear cylinder. Put bike back together and test rode. After adjusting fuel screw/idle bike seems to run great! Guess it was the IC Ignitor. I ran into a couple other problems with spark plug wires and choke which I put in different posts as to keep things somewhat organized. Sfair: X1 multimeter is on the way, and I will holler when it arrives.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Sfair: X1 multimeter as arrived. Bike is somewhat apart to change out front turn signals and replace carb bowl gasket, so a great time to perform the tests. Please advise if you can. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
Kawasaki ignitor readings are to be taken with a grain of salt unless you have the EXACT same test equipment as they do, and even then?

Did you want to do some checks on your old ignitor, or?
If so, then post make and model # of your new meter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I understand about the readings not matching using a different meter. However, if a reading is supposed to be no resistance, yet my reading is showing resistance (of any number) then wouldn't that indicate a problem? (No need to test the bad ignitor, the used one I put in is working as far as i can tell. I now have good sparks on both cylinders.) Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Thought I'd post back to give final results of the troubleshooting.

Ignition:IC Ignitor was bad causing no-spark on rear cylinder, however BOTH plug wires had cuts causing high-voltage leaks which I luckily saw during a spark test. Surprised the bike ran at all. Once fixed, the Cobra pipes, lack of air box, enricher not sealing, and carb boot leaking were all contributing to a massive lean condition. All fixed; bike runs great but with fuel screw turned out 4 turns and choke pulled out a tad. However, I installed a 50 pilot jet this morning in place of the OEM 48 in hopes I could get the fuel screw back into normal range and not have to run w/choke pulled out.

Results: The 50 pilot jet did the trick for these tapered Cobra pipes! Choke acts correctly and the fuel screw is turned back in to about 2 1/2 turns out. Thanks for everyone's help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
I had a Honda Shadow Sabre 1100 long time ago similar problem turned out one of the wires going to the coil had a small nick in it causing it to ground out intermittently looking at your spark plugs looks like the cylinder that the fouled plug came from is doing the same thing mine did
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top