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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thanks for the help Cobra.....

So I purchase a Cobra Fi2000 and I've heard that if you call Cobra, they'll help you with a good setting for your bike.HA!! That dude could care less. Some technical engineer he is for Cobra. So I've read a bunch of threads about pot settings, I've tried a few. I don't know if I'm just not fully understanding the whole concept and effects each thing has,cause I try to read and understand what part of the process( ie differ.gears,half throttle,roll on throttle,ect ect) to be analyzing. I don't know. I've tested 420, and 321 so far. I don't have a BAK though, just a K&N air filter and VnH Slash cut staggereds. So I'll just keep reading and trying.
 

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Try again. Maybe you just caught a guy on a bad day. You might also see if there is a dyno guy in your area. Also run a search in the 900 section on your particular fule processor. Seems there is a popular setting for that one 2-2-0 or 2-2-1 possibly. Just going by memory so search before you try that.
 

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Did you buy it new? If so why not opt for the auto tune one? Plug and Play. Set and Forget. No matter what mods you do in future it not a worry. Is it really worth the headache?
 

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Did you buy it new? If so why not opt for the auto tune one? Plug and Play. Set and Forget. No matter what mods you do in future it not a worry. Is it really worth the headache?
That self adjusting model is like $500 new. The model he has can be found new for around $150 and cheaper than that if it's used. I would guess that's why.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes I bought it new. Unfortunately Colemantle hit it right on the head, I didn't have the $500 extra right now but seen this so I got it. I wish I could've just got the good one but I'm stuck with this one for a while.
 

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the cobras are great but you have to think of it as a carb instead of a computer.
One is the idle fuel adjustment.
one is the midrange or normal setting and one is the goose it high end.
have you ever tuned a carb before?
Idle setting. turn the screw right until the motor starts to bog down turn the screw to the left until you get a high idle but it will be uneven and popping ever so slightly.
Back to the left till you get smooth idle with even or minimal popping. this is not loud popping more like a puttputt--putt, but should be puttputtputt even sound from the pipes
then go for a short ride to feel how the bike accelerates under low load conditions. If there is any hesitation you may be lean and will have to richen (left turn on the screw)the mix till it runs smooth on the road.
The 3rd screw you can set while parked. You want to see the green light come on when you jam the throttle but only when you really jam it.
If you get hesitation on the road when you jam it you are lean, if it feels like it's bogging down your too rich.
If you get pinging when you jam it you are too lean
run for 30 miles and check the plugs. If they are black your middle screw is too rich.
If they are nice and brown your good to go
And if they are white you are too lean.
just like a carb, but you don't have to screw with changing jets
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the detailed help WDS. I appreciate it.I'm a little confused with what you were saying about setting the 3rd screw while parked. Are u going left to right or right to left? Thanks again
 

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adjust it from left till green light comes on only at full quick rev. If it comes on too early it means you are dumping too much fuel into the cylinder and the bike may bog down when you goose it. Trial and error.
Just remember idle- midrange- highend and see how the bike responds in those areas after adjusting.
And check the plugs after a good run. that will tell you a lot.
 

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Thanks for the detailed help WDS. I appreciate it.I'm a little confused with what you were saying about setting the 3rd screw while parked. Are u going left to right or right to left? Thanks again
Not sure if mine is the same one.
Many years ago on another forum, I gleened these instructions.Its a bit of a process, but spark plugs always look great!

Set all dials/pots to 0
With the bike "fully warmed up" Set idle to 2000rpm with the idle adjustment thingy. Slowly add 1/2# on the first dial/pot (green light on mine) until idle drops off. (if/when idle increases, back off idle screw thingy to maintain 2000rpm)Return the dial/pot to last spot with no stumble/lower rpm. Return idle thingy to maintain proper idle 1000rpm+/- 50 rpm. Done

While in a mid gear (3rd) on a level road, speed at or near 25mph+/-.
Crack throttle about half, but not more than 2/3rds. Add some of the mid dial/pot(Yellow on mine) 1/2# at a time until throttle response does not improve,back off to last spot. Done

The last pot/dial is for the WOT with higher RPMs. You will have to make a few timed runs to get an average. Keep adding 1/2# and testing,when no improvement is noted, back off to last spot. Done
(truely the most time consuming).


This has worked very well for me, over many changes in baffles, air box mods, etc.
Good from sea level (were I am at) to 3-4000ft.

Pulls great to 95-97 mph When you use the full power band.
Average fuel mpg's cruising up to 65-70mph 48-52
Around town 32-36
I still get mid to high 50's mpg in some areas

hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What confuses me though RIDER is the idle spec is like 1050 ish, so I don't understand why you would want the idle at 2k. Also this may be a stupid newb question but is there a way to see the rpms (ie a tool or something ) without installing a tach?
 

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What confuses me though RIDER is the idle spec is like 1050 ish, so I don't understand why you would want the idle at 2k. Also this may be a stupid newb question but is there a way to see the rpms (ie a tool or something ) without installing a tach?
My FI2000 is the three pot/dial type.The first pot is on all the time. The second pot comes on at 1/3rd through 2/3rds throttle. The last pot comes on at 2/3rds and above"at higher RPM"4-5K rpm?

Sorry that is to set the first dial/pot (green light) after setting, return the idle to normal 1000 +/- 50

I hook up my volt/ohm/meter with tach while setting the FI. to one of the coils Neg.- for the trigger.
 
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