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Well I just pulled the trigger and bought both of these is there anything else I may need to adapt this carb swap ???
 

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Well I just pulled the trigger and bought both of these is there anything else I may need to adapt this carb swap ???
Excuse the question but you buy 2 of these , right. My carbies 1995 vn1500c3 carbies are cooked. Do you think it works on this model to? I would also get rid of infamous ears and go central air cleaners.


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Discussion Starter #24
Hmmm sorry I wouldn't know if this would work on the old Vulcan A models. This mod was made on Vulcans 1500D + E
 

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Hmmm sorry I wouldn't know if this would work on the old Vulcan A models. This mod was made on Vulcans 1500D + E
Same CVK40 Carbs on the Vulcan C’s (my model) as the D & E’s. Air filter was different of course. Any idea why it wouldn’t or couldn’t work?


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Discussion Starter #26
Well in that case then no, I don't. However, my question would be this: How is it that a twin carb motor would have the same carbs as a single carb motor of the same displacement?
I'm not a carburetor genius but....... it would seem to me that the twins would be about half the size of a single, being as they each had but a single cylinder to provide for. Physics here?
 

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No , because each one has a differently timed intake stroke. When the front cylinder is on intake stroke the rear cylinder is on power stroke, so they are using the carburetor at different times.
 

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Considering the C40's from eBay, on my 94 1500A. Would I need the slant style? and or can I make a manifold to run a single carb.? Also, all of the air box and emissions parts were gone at purchase. Do I just plug the vac. and other port on the carbs or should they be connected to ? AND, ? the 2 lines at the bottom of the gas tank??
I tore down the carbs and cleaned, got a new pump and still appears to run out of gas. The fuel filter is half full and drops out. A little or a lot of help please!
Thanks, Jack
 

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Yes. I am new hare and was having issues with figuring out how send a message. My question was actually going to the other guy who bought the cv40 carb and spike air cleaner. Butmy question for you is does it matter which cv40 will work for the vn1500d1? Due to the amount of different cv40 models that are on eBay( cause some of them vary as to which bike you are ording them for. Any recommendations that will best fit my 96 vn1500d1 classic. I got this bike given to me, cause the owner gave up on it after setting it on fire and got frustrated with finding a new tank,seat, and other parts that got melted from the small fire that was caused from a rookie mistake and probably to many beers while working on it.
 

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But so far I have got a new seat, tank off a nomad,gas cap,and petcock. I have decided to do away with the stock air box(both sides),and figured the carb probably isn't worth rebuilding since a new cv40 is cheaper than buying the factory rebuild kit from kawi. And after watching too many biker build off shows, I have the same mind set as you and believe that just because no has done it, doesn't mean that no one can. Cause you are proof that yes it can.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Ok! Well.....first off, a CV40 is just that. It matters not which bike the sellers are marketing it for....... if they were different for different brands then each would have it's own name. If you'd feel it's less of a risk, go for the ones that say they fit Sportster and Dyna from the '90's. It is virtually the same carb as Kawasaki's stock CVK40 (notice the K?) used on Vulcan 1500D, E, J, etc. - minus a couple of inconsequential (and unnecessary) idiosyncrasies particular to Kawasaki. Mine came with an assortment of Jets, but I used it as-is right out of the box and it's fine. Maybe some day I'll play with jetting but for for now it doesn't seem necessary.
Your tricky part is going to be an air cleaner. Any stock or even aftermarket air cleaners for these carburetors were meant to be on Harley Davidsons, where the gas tank height was not a problem. The lower tank height on the Vulcan will obstruct a straight-on mounting. I had to really pull out a couple of magic tricks to mount my stock Vulcan air cleaner. I too eliminated all of that convoluted air box system, keeping only the right side. It works good and looks good. Read all the previous replies back to the beginning to get details of the various things I needed to do to get the thing mounted and usable. If you've got a bit of McGyver in you, you can do it!
 

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Cool. One thing I did notice about the Nomad gas tank that I purchased off eBay was that the lower tank mount bolt( even though lines up perfect) does not sit flush to the frame. So maybe this will help with giving me a little extra clearance for the air cleaner. I didn't want to force the tank to smash flat to the frame so I added another rubber grommet for the lower tank bolt Wich gives me about a half inch more clearance for the opening of my carburators air port (rh side). Just thought I'd mention this for any one else trying to Mc' Geiver the clearance issue. Thanks for info and can't wait to get some photos of my progress and this bike on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
1/2" won't help....... we're talking about 3 or 3.5 inches here. Look at the plastic back on the right..... The rubber air duct does a significant drop down.
 

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I read somewhere else that there is an adapter plate that is for this carb and an old flat head harley that would give the air intake side of the carb a round surface to mount our existing rubber boot to so that the air cleaner can mount to it.

Don't know if this will work or not but it supposedly will


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