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OK, I purchased the 50 watt running lights from wally world. Have them mounted and wired them into the low beams as suggested in a earlier thread. I fired up the bike and blew the head light fuse twice. Any new suggestions?
 

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I have no actual response but plan on doing same addition. Can you post a pic with them mounted?
 

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you put two 55w running lights on with another 50 watts on a circuit that might carry 120watts. We're kinda pushing it with the 60/100 Napa aftermarket bulb. That's why your fuse blew. Like the folks say, use the headlight power to trigger a 12 volt relay with it's own feed from your battery. You'll be pulling 110 watts at 12 volts so you'll be pulling a little over 9 amps, so a 15-20 amp fuse would be appropriate.

I have the relay strapped to the frame backbone just under the tank and took the headlight feed line from just before the connection up on the frame there. High or low when I hit the starter button and the headlight circuit is energized so is my relay.

Hi/lo on doesn't matter for me so whenever the lights are on my circuit is on though I have a switch on the right cover panel to shut it off if I'm stuck in traffic so I don't run the battery down. During the day, my headlight is on a modulator. At night I really can use the 210 watts of light pouring out of the front of my bike. I also have them located down lower mounted off brackets that I mounted to the fender support brackets. Picture showing front view to follow.

 

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A friend of mine uses these exact running lights on his Honda (Magna), and they REALLY improve both his daytime visibility, and the extra 55W of light also help quite a bit for night riding. As soon as I have time, (yeah, RIGHT!:mad:) I plan to mount a set as seen above. IMHO, you can't get a better bang for your buck where lighting is concerned!

xcbullet's link (http://www.gadgetjq.com/wiredrivinglights.htm) is just about the best write-up I've seen on the subject - :cool:

Good luck!
 

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Side note -
If you live in a state that has a law about not running high-beams with driving lights, use the low beam side of the headlight circuit to control the relay. If you live (like I do) in a state that doesn't care about this, then use the running light circuit to control the relay. This will be one of the wires going to the front turn signals. I used the electrical diagram in the service manual to figure out which. This way, as soon as you turn on the key, you have driving lights and they cut off when you turn off the key. I also have a manual cut-off switch in case I need to cut them off for some reason but want to still have the running lights on.

PS- I hid the relay and connectors in the headlight bucket. From the headlight bucket I have only one wire going to the seat area and one wire going down to the two lights. Really a tidy way to do it.
 

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I didn't see this listed BUT you MUST do something to keep the front bezel on the lights. If you don't you will sooner or later you will loose the front and it will just look silly if not just rub the wires and short out. Some have drilled and screwed the bezel solid I used silicon. Fact is, I used silicon on the bucket and on the lens and then on the locking area. This puts a pretty good hold on things while still being possible to come apart with some work. I also water proofed the back hole the same way, it's high temp silicon, that sucker gets hot. I think if you follow the link of the picture I posted above you'll see a shot of the inner light hanging out on my trip to the salina wind farm.

Don't think you'll get by lucky, it'll happen and the only saving grace will be that the lights are so cheap.

Also, these are standard 55 w 12 volt bulbs and 35 watt bulbs are available, I've seen em in Walmart along with 55 watt replacement bulbs. If you want to run 70 watts instead of 110 watts you just need to swap bulbs.
 

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WW running lights

Mr. Clean I'll testify to that one. Only after one week of service I was driving down the road and saw one of my halo's hanging by the wire. I called the company and they sent me a brand new set for free and said they are either so tight you can't take them apart or too loose when the come from China. I ended up drilling another hole on the bottom and put a screw in each one and siliconed it. Haven't had any problems since.
 

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Have these on both mine and the wifes bike, both rings were on so tight I had to use a rubber jar cap tool to get them off. The 500 does not give them enough juice to run these all the time, so I put them on a switch that we can turn off before we get to a stop so the system can charge up the battery. Had to jump start wifes bike twice... Also got LED replacement bulbs from homedepot (20W) swapped them on wifes bike, they look good for day time attention getters, have not tried them at night yet. She left the LED's on for about six hours two days ago did not run down battery.
Dan
 
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