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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally figured out how to resize my pictures so that the forum can accept them. Yes, I'm one of those cheap bastard Junior Members who doesn't pay for the privalege of being on this forum. It is a great forum and worth the money. I'm just broke. Anyway, here are some pictures I took of how I have my lights set up. This is a really cheap way to do driving lights and they are really bright. Unless you want to spend the money for Cobra's or PIAA HID lights, these work great and are easy to do.

I bought some stainless hardware and p-clamps through McMaster Carr and the lights from Wal-mart. The switch and inline fuse came from Auto Zone. The lights come with an inline fuse and switch, but neither seemed to be very water-proof. Also, I wanted a blade type fuse as opposed to the glass tube type that comes with the lights. All totalled, I have about $40-$50 in this mod. See link below for the p-clamps.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/1497/=6uw113

I went with the ones called Sure-Grip Cushioned Loop Clamps in stainless steel with neoprene cushion. Measure your bar for size per I can't remember if it was 3/4" or 7/8". Either way, I ended up clipping off the little sure-grip lip per it was a little to tight with that on there.

As for the wiring I ran a wire from the + battery terminal through the inline fuse, to my switch in the picture. Then from there I ran wire back up in front of the battery box through a hole in the frame and then under the gas tank. I went down the left hand side with a single black wire to a connection under the headlight. Then I attached one wire from both head lights to this main power wire. The other wire from each head light goes under the lower triple tree to ground. Ground is attached to the bolts holding the middle of the bar that the turn signals mount to. See picture. Ground is the black covered wire going to the bolt on the left. The right side is identical, you just can't see it. I used covered spade or barrell connectors for all of my connections so that if I had to replace the switch or one of the lights at any point, I could do it without having to pull all the wire back out from under the tank. Also, I used heat shrink tape on all the connections and on the wires coming out of the light housing. Maybe this is overkill, but I are an in-guh-neer. That's the way I swing.

This set up works with a windshield as you see. This is a Memphis Shades Slim windshield with the quick release mounts.

I hope this is helpful to someone. Please ignore all the yellow dust on the bike in the pictures. I took these the week of our annual yellow snow festival (pollen).
 

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It's clean, but you didn't give us a headshot with the lights on. I don't think he's actually wired it in fellers!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's clean, but you didn't give us a headshot with the lights on. I don't think he's actually wired it in fellers!!
I wasn't able to ride to work this morning. But when I get home, I promise to post shots with the lights on. She is so covered in bugs right now, you may not be able to see them, but I'll post pics anyway.:D

I must say, they are so bright even in the daytime that my buddy who rides the Harley asked that I re-aim them a little lower. He was getting blinded in his rear view mirrors when we would ride together. I did re-aim them and they actually worked better. The first time I had them a little to skyward.
 

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I finally figured out how to resize my pictures so that the forum can accept them. Yes, I'm one of those cheap bastard Junior Members who doesn't pay for the privalege of being on this forum. It is a great forum and worth the money. I'm just broke. Anyway, here are some pictures I took of how I have my lights set up. This is a really cheap way to do driving lights and they are really bright. Unless you want to spend the money for Cobra's or PIAA HID lights, these work great and are easy to do.

I bought some stainless hardware and p-clamps through McMaster Carr and the lights from Wal-mart. The switch and inline fuse came from Auto Zone. The lights come with an inline fuse and switch, but neither seemed to be very water-proof. Also, I wanted a blade type fuse as opposed to the glass tube type that comes with the lights. All totalled, I have about $40-$50 in this mod. See link below for the p-clamps.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/1497/=6uw113

I went with the ones called Sure-Grip Cushioned Loop Clamps in stainless steel with neoprene cushion. Measure your bar for size per I can't remember if it was 3/4" or 7/8". Either way, I ended up clipping off the little sure-grip lip per it was a little to tight with that on there.

As for the wiring I ran a wire from the + battery terminal through the inline fuse, to my switch in the picture. Then from there I ran wire back up in front of the battery box through a hole in the frame and then under the gas tank. I went down the left hand side with a single black wire to a connection under the headlight. Then I attached one wire from both head lights to this main power wire. The other wire from each head light goes under the lower triple tree to ground. Ground is attached to the bolts holding the middle of the bar that the turn signals mount to. See picture. Ground is the black covered wire going to the bolt on the left. The right side is identical, you just can't see it. I used covered spade or barrell connectors for all of my connections so that if I had to replace the switch or one of the lights at any point, I could do it without having to pull all the wire back out from under the tank. Also, I used heat shrink tape on all the connections and on the wires coming out of the light housing. Maybe this is overkill, but I are an in-guh-neer. That's the way I swing.

This set up works with a windshield as you see. This is a Memphis Shades Slim windshield with the quick release mounts.

I hope this is helpful to someone. Please ignore all the yellow dust on the bike in the pictures. I took these the week of our annual yellow snow festival (pollen).
I added the same lights, drilled hole in turn signal bracket to mount.

Guess that makes me bigger cheapo. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alright, finally got home at 9:30. Here are the promised pics. I took them from head on and a side view with driving light on and off. The headlight is on low beam. On high it rivals the driving lights. I was really impressed with the head on shot. I had no idea how much of a difference these things made. Its sort of like "CAN YOU SEE ME NOW!!!"

And with that, I am going to bed. See yall in the morning.
 

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Thanx for your post. I've had these lights in my basement for a year now. I almost threw them away the other day. I think I will now install them. I agree with what you said about the switch does not look to waterproof. So I think I will go get a better one.
 

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Hey thanks Pirate for the clamps & the Idea, mine are just like yours & the pics don,t do these justice they do shine up the road right in front of you great.

I wired mine different though ,I skipped the switch all together as I want them on all the time .Used the accessory wires in the head light for power & ground but the power goes to the relay I put under the tank just behind the plug ins ,one of those wires(blue/yellow) is the wire before head light switch T off that to trigger relay & grounded relay on bolt that holds bracket right there.Wired like this they come on after bike starts & no need for fuse as accessory has fuse on it already

I also have this power up some extra led blinker & running lights on shield,blinker power comes from that block of wires & all the wires are in loom I put on to go to head light bucket
 

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Discussion Starter #10
XCBULLET - I have heard of folks doing it that way. Sounds like a good idea. Just curious, but if the head light blows, does that kill the circuit and therefore shut off the relay that allows the running lights to work? I like having back-ups systems if at all possible. I wouldn't want to drive with only the driving lights to guide me. But in a pinch I could probably make it to an AutoZone if I had to. Of course, hopefully high and low beam wouldn't go out at the same time either. Call it a triple redundancy. Either way, your wiring type offers one that mine doesn't. You can't accidentally leave the lights on and kill the battery as long as you take the key with you. With my setup I have to remember to turn off that switch.
 

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Its the wire I tapped mine off too. No, if the headlamp dies the voltage is still there and the relay still trips. You DO have to be careful where you put the lighted switch that they send you. If you take your power from the battery through your switch and up to the relay and allow the relay to make the connection to your lights AND ground the third pole of the switch (the other side of the switches lamp) the lamp will be on full time, power on or off the bike. That will drain your battery. If you run the power to your relay and then go to the switch and then to the lights with the third pole grounded, the light in the switch will only turn on when the bike is running and it will not drain your battery. I remember I ran it the way I have it because I didn't want to run the wire all the way back to the switch and then back up to the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, the first time I ran it, I didn't realize you could ground to the frame. Also, someone had gotten me scared of overloading the 16 or 18 guage wire that comes with the lights so I ran two hots and two grounds all the way back to the battery. It looked like spaghetti. I have found that one hot wire from the battery is fine and by grounding to the frame, the wiring is real nice and clean.:cool:
 

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I've had mine up and running for about a year now. I used a relay triggered by the high beams. Got my power from inside the headlight bucket and added a dedicated fuse. That way the mod is seperate form the headlights, they come on with the headlight after the bike starts, and I can turn them off by going to low beams. As stated in previous post I would highly recommend you put a small screw through the bezel to keep it from vibrating off--It will.
 

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Actually, I took the things apart and siliconed the back plug into it's receiver, smeared a thin bead of silicone around the light and pushed it in then put a thin bead on the chrome cover both on the ring around the lends and on the flange so that mine are siliconed togethered instead of glued. Then I went to the wires coming out of the back and filled the hole with hot glue to completely seal the unit. The silicone has held the bezels hard. Fact is I did this to the first one that I had to replace the lens cap and light with but as I was on the road I taped it too. When I went to clean everything up and replace the other one that had burned out I found it quite a bit of torque needed to break the silicone free.
 

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Nice looking job Jeep, and thanks for the detailed write-up (and pics!) about it. This is now on my short list of things to add/get done to the bike. I zoomed way in on your pic of the switch, but for some reason was not able to see the switch, or am I just being blind? Is that a rocker switch on the front of the lower black plastic cover I see? And if so, how did you cut the plastic?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Forrest,
Sorry, I am usually incommunicado on weekends. The switch is black which doesn't help you to see it. It is a simple on/off toggle switch with a rubber boot over the metal toggle. I was trying to be as waterproof as possible. I also, dabbed a little sealant glue in the hole where the wires came out of the back of the switch. The switch is pointing straight down toward the ground. it uses a ring nut to hold it in place. I just drilled a hole in the bottom of the cover and the switch sticks out the bottom. It is kinda close to the pipes, but I have never burned my hand or anything. Not saying you want to grab the pipes for long, but in the time it takes to bump the switch it isn't really hot down there. I chose this spot because I wanted it to be inconspicuous. Also, if I decided I didn't like the lights, I didn't want any holes showing after I took them off.
 

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