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Stator reasonably priced used online, personally I’d buy the cover new, less chance of warping or damage that way


Saddle up and feel the wind in your Helmet! ATGATT
 

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I may be wrong here, but I think the stator values for the Versys (25W and 40W) are being misunderstood. You can't run a bike (well, maybe some tiny 50cc scooter with a flashlight for a headlight) with 25W. 25W won't even run the headlight of most bikes and you still need power for the ignition system, ECU, gauges, etc. I think the Versys has 2 headlight bulbs (hi and lo) that are more than 35W each. No way it's factory stator produces just 25W.

I pretty sure the 25W is the available power above what the bike needs to run (or 40W with the upgrade). You might actually lose available power with the Versys stator in a Vulcan S. The accessory circuit on the Vulcan S can handle 25W. There has to be more than that available to assure proper battery charging. It is even possible that the Versys stator won't supply enough power for the basic operation of a Vulcan S. Sport bikes often do not require as much power to operate as cruisers of similar engine size and have less excess power available above that value.

Has anyone actually put a Versys stator in a Vulcan S and can report of whether or not it works?
 

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Has anyone actually put a Versys stator in a Vulcan S and can report of whether or not it works?
Not to my knowledge. As I mentioned quite a while ago in my original findings in another thread it would be something to explore with cost effective parts in case it didn't work.
Unfortunately the horse bolted after I mentioned it again.
You are correct. Versys does not have a 40w stator. It provides 40w of auxiliary power over the motorcycles running requirements.
 

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Let Me Pick Your Brain w/Caveman Question

Yeah, I know...but I'm an engineer
...
You could then add about a 4.75A additional load - but note the accessory circuit has a 5A fuse and I'm already using about 1.8A of that fuse rating to power driving lights and a GPI.

Adding heated grips (Oxfords consume about 4A) could be viable, but I recommend they be powered directly from the battery thru a relay controlled by the accessory circuit; easy enough as a set of accessory circuit leads are under the seat, and two sets are available behind the headlight.
...
Of course if you were really paranoid about overtaxing your alternator you could add another relay to cut out your heated grips when you run the hi beam..or just rig it to shut off your driving lights

Ride safe!



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I'm planning on adding the Oxford grips soon but want to be sure I know what I'm doing first. Sorry to ask what are likely obvious questions, but electricity is over my head.
When you say to power directly from battery thru a relay by accessory circuit, am I correct in assuming I need to wire as follows?
Positive (+) from battery, inline 5A fuse for Oxford, (+) wire into Oxford grips.
Negative (-) from accessory circuit, (-) wire into Oxford grips

Or do I have that backwards? Or just all together wrong (what I expect)?

I've already switched all but the lights in the headlamp bucket to LED, which I'm ordering LEDs for right now. I've only added the DC outlet and run a quick charger for my phone to run GPS with. Based on previous posts it seems safe to say that the accessory circuit can't handle the Oxford grips unless I want to rewire the DC outlet.

Thanks for all your previous homework, and undoubtedly future help, its made my life MUCH simpler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
In your case here’s what I’d recommend:

+12 V from the battery through the fuse to one side of an additional relay that you install. The coil of this additional relay will be fired by your already-existing accessory circuit.
The other side of your additional relay would feed the +12 V input to your oxford grips.

The negative side of your Oxford grips would run back to the negative side on the battery or a reliable ground on the bike.

Let’s talk a moment about this additional relay you’d have to install.

You can be mounted under the seat, and there are four connections; to power poles, and two coil connections for firing the relay.

One of the coil connections goes to the accessory connector under the seat, the other went to ground (I think the two bullet connectors under the seat or actually accessory power and ground so they’re already there).

When you turn the key on the bike the accessory power goes hot and fires your new relay making a complete connection through the power poles on your relay. This provides 12 V all the way up to your Oxford grips.

Look at this thread:
Vulcan S Heated Grips
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...m/forums/showthread.php?t=239241&share_type=t

Ride safe!
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While I'll admit to being lazy and not reading most of the 4 pages here, an electrical problem I had involved the accessory outlet. It's rated for 5 amps with a 5A fuse, I stuck in a double USB outlet into it that brought it to 4.8, and the fuse blew consistently, the dealer said that 4.8 was too close to 5, and to only use a single USB outlet. Does anyone here have any thoughts on that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
It seems apparent you’re exceeding the 5A limit...

USB converters are not 100% efficient; let’s say your connected USB loads total 4.8A...then add to that the energy used by the converter to make 5V from the bike.

If you want (need) 2 USB outlets that pull that much power get a separate handlebar-mounted USB outlet and wire it up being fed off the battery...keeping in mind what I’m showing you below...

Since the limitation on the Vulcan S accessory circuit is 5A (per the manual) don’t increase the fuse size...you should run a separate circuit to feed this new dual- USB outlet that is fused for (just for fun) 7.5A to the battery.

One cautionary note is this - you need to provide a way to cut power to this circuit when the key is off, otherwise the USB adapter (even without anything plugged into it) will slowly drain your battery without the engine running.

Install a relay under the seat to control the battery power to your new USB sockets; use the existing accessory circuit to fire the relay. This connection for the accessory circuit is under the seat and perfect for this purpose.

This way, when you turn the key off the relay opens and your battery isn’t continually loaded.



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It seems apparent you’re exceeding the 5A limit...

USB converters are not 100% efficient; let’s say your connected USB loads total 4.8A...then add to that the energy used by the converter to make 5V from the bike.

If you want (need) 2 USB outlets that pull that much power get a separate handlebar-mounted USB outlet and wire it up being fed off the battery...keeping in mind what I’m showing you below...

Since the limitation on the Vulcan S accessory circuit is 5A (per the manual) don’t increase the fuse size...you should run a separate circuit to feed this new dual- USB outlet that is fused for (just for fun) 7.5A to the battery.

One cautionary note is this - you need to provide a way to cut power to this circuit when the key is off, otherwise the USB adapter (even without anything plugged into it) will slowly drain your battery without the engine running.

Install a relay under the seat to control the battery power to your new USB sockets; use the existing accessory circuit to fire the relay. This connection for the accessory circuit is under the seat and perfect for this purpose.

This way, when you turn the key off the relay opens and your battery isn’t continually loaded.



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What it was for was to be able to charge both my phone and helmet at the same time on long trips, what I ended up doing was getting a phone charging system that hooks directly to the battery and use the socket for just the helmet. But I like your idea as well
 

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Hello!

Thanks to the OP for the work done in that first post! Is it is Owner's Manuel or the Service Manuel that has the 25W number for additional power? I haven't found it in the Owner's Manuel yet.

I recently bought a 2019 Kawasaki Vulcan S ABS, and I am trying to determine if the numbers are the same for my bike.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Glad to know that the thread I wrote a long time ago is still useful to some extent.

Since you have a 2019 look at pages 79 and 80 of the user manual:


Ride safe!

Gregg


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Yeah your post is really helping me out! I am trying to get enough power to throw on some Clearwater Darla's as well as the OEM light Bar. If my calculations are right there should be just enough power, with about 11.4 watts to spare (which I may use for some more brake lights).

So I've got a Cyclops 10.0 H4 LED headlight bulb installed, which if my understanding is correct uses 38 watts on both high and low.

Now what I need to do is get LED's for the other lights.


LIGHTING LOAD (OEM):
City light in headlight bucket is 5W
License plate light is 5W
Turn signals (4) are 10W each
Headlight is 55/60W H4 Halogen
Total lighting load is (w/hi beam on) = 110W

So if you can't MAKE more power, SAVE some power:
Convert the city light, all turn sigs and lic plate light to LED, this means load is now (3.4W x 4)+(1W x 2)= 15.6W; a reduction of 34.4W.
Convert headlight from 55/60W H4 halogen to LED H4 (i.e Cyclops)20/40W, net reduction of 20W on High beam.
Rangemaster, do you happen to recall where you found the wattage for these OEM lights, I imagine they have not changed over the years, but I want to double check if I can. Or did you test them yourself? I may be able to get my Dad to help me if that is the case, he is also an Electrical Engineer.

So if my understanding is correct in what to replace these with it is a 3.4 W LED bulb for each turn signals, and a 1 watt LED bulb for the City light and the License Plate light.

Any suggestions on where I can get LED's that work well with the Vulcan S for the items quoted above? names or links would be greatly apricated!

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
Yeah your post is really helping me out! I am trying to get enough power to throw on some Clearwater Darla's as well as the OEM light Bar. If my calculations are right there should be just enough power, with about 11.4 watts to spare (which I may use for some more brake lights).

So I've got a Cyclops 10.0 H4 LED headlight bulb installed, which if my understanding is correct uses 38 watts on both high and low.

Now what I need to do is get LED's for the other lights.




Rangemaster, do you happen to recall where you found the wattage for these OEM lights, I imagine they have not changed over the years, but I want to double check if I can. Or did you test them yourself? I may be able to get my Dad to help me if that is the case, he is also an Electrical Engineer.

So if my understanding is correct in what to replace these with it is a 3.4 W LED bulb for each turn signals, and a 1 watt LED bulb for the City light and the License Plate light.

Any suggestions on where I can get LED's that work well with the Vulcan S for the items quoted above? names or links would be greatly apricated!

Thanks!
As far as the OEM halogen lamp wattages...it was called out in the shop manual for the Vulcan S...or you can just remove the lamps at look at the part numbers.

Also look search for the thread I started on turn signals:

Retrofit LED Lamps for Existing Turn Signals- Turn Signals 101

The city & license plate lights I used are Sylvania 194-type LEDs (Walmart).
A description of the turn signal lamps is included in the thread Turn Signals 101... I don’t know if those lamps are still available from the same vendor as it has been too long, just pay attention to the total wattage and the overall dimensions as compared to the standard halogen lamp. Those dimensions are shown in the turn signal thread.

The most critical thing on the turn signal lamps is to make sure they are not too tall/fat or they will not fit in the turn signal enclosure.




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