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While you are correct concerning some motorcycle electrical designs, it is not a concern in this case with the design of Vulcan S in applying these mods...
Sorry, I wasn't clear: it's not the alternator that's the problem, it's the additional 4 amps (48w) that the R/R has to 'sink' when you're not running any of your accessories that could lead to overheating and premature death of the R/R. In the grand scheme of things, an additional 4A may not be much for a S R/R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Ok, I understand what you're saying now...and in reality the way my S is operated the minimum continuous difference is only about 17W (less than OEM-no-options) as the driving lights will be run all the time for conspicuity.

I'll do some IR gun measurements and compare with someone's stock bike...both sitting still and after going down the road, as airflow past the rectifier/regulator further cools the unit...as does rain (welcome to NW Oregon lol).

There may also be solutions in the future for retrofitting improved R/Rs along with alternators, as it looks like some of these components have been used on the 650 Ninja variants since 2012. A nice MOSFET unit would be more efficient than the stock one.


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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
As a follow-up I found the regulator/rectifier is a Shindengen SH838AA, also used on the Z1000SX and Z800... I have emailed Shindengen to get the electrical and heat dissipation specs.

This appears to be an SCR shunt-type regulator as VulcanDrifter proposed; I suspect the capacity is around 35A with 1m/s air cooling (40°C). If this is the case you'd likely blow the main fuse (30A) on the bike before you cooked the regulator....unless you sit still forever and don't cool it off ...in which case most of those have a 'no-cooling' (not moving) spec of around 20A.

Film at 11...ride safe!


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Like you I am working on my wife's bike. Thanks for putting all of this together but, as I shop for the LED turn signal bulbs I'm not sure what bulbs to purchase. I'm mostly concerned about fitting them into the signal light housing. What specific bulb did you find that fits and who did you order it through?
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)

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Hi,
I have just found this thread, and have found it very useful, given that I am trying to reduce the electrical consumption on my Vulcan S too.
Unfortunately it'll be risky to do the headlight switch-I live in France where these type of headlights are not homologated and the police are quite strict about that sort of stuff.
I will go with the other "smaller" savings tho'.
A question, please: the rear stop light has not been mentioned (unless I haven't read the thread properly). Is there a reason for that?
I only have the owners manual, which in my opinion is not much use, I am wondering whether it's worth buying a workshop manual?
Obviously I need help, perhaps it's already too late, lol.
Cheers
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
Greetings:

The Vulcan S stop/tail light is LED already...comes that way from the factory...check the Electrical section of the Specifications chapter of your 'useless' owners' manual (lol).

If you do a tail tidy conversion you can change the rear tail light out, but no power savings would be realized as the OEM light is LED.

YES...if you're going to do any involved work on your bike I strongly recommend buying a service manual. Buy a 'real' one...not a pirated or Xerox-copied or scanned one; besides being a copyright violation the electrical diagrams will be difficult to read as copies lose resolution.

Ride safe!


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How embarrassing! When I couldn't find any (other) info re bulbs, I stopped looking. Oh well, story of my life. I'll start looking for a workshop manual. Thanks for your speedy reply (and tolerance, lol).
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
No problem!

If you have any questions regarding your conversion, please feel free to PM me. I will help if able...

Ride safe!


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Thanks very much. I think I'll wait to source a manual, to see how best to dismantle (!) the headlight and tail light assemblies. I am particularly gifted in making the wrong choices, lol.
Cheers,
Mike
 

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Very good thread...thanks to everyone for contributing.

Now that the cold weather is here I'm pondering what to vis-a-vis heated gear...be that heated grips or a heated jacket and gloves...maybe one day pants and socks. From the info in the thread I clearly have work to do freeing up power if I hope to achieve any or all of that. The pants and socks are now clearly on the nice-to-have but expendable list...the jacket could be in jeopardy as well as keeping my hands warm is the top priority and the rest of the body can be adequately protected without warmers if necessary.

I'll no doubt have questions as I begin the ponder and research swapping out the OEM bulbs for led to save wattage but before I go there I want to check to see if I'm calculating correctly.

The only accessory I've added is the DC power outlet and I have a 12v / 2.1a USB power adapter that I use to keep my iPhone charged while using it for GPS. Am I calculating correctly that it draws a max of 25.2 watts? In other words, slightly more than 100% of the available power.

Unfortunately, the 1 amp adapter I used doesn't provide enough juice to keep the phone charged while I'm using it for GPS. I found that out the hard way when riding in unfamiliar territory 75+ miles from home when I got the low battery warning. Fortunately I found a store in the middle of nowhere and bought the new adapter which saved the day and allowed me to complete my planned 225 mile day. Of course now that I know we're all running with such a tight limit on power I'll look around to see if there isn't something in between that will do the trick while using less power.

In the meantime if someone could please confirm or correct my calculation above it would be much appreciated. Just want to be sure I'm doing it correctly as this is my first bike and I've not had to sweat power limitations like this before.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Chris:

While the max output on an adapter might say 2.1A, there is also a small amount used by the adapter itself. In addition, you’ll have more than 12VDC in a healthy electrical system, which lowers the amperage draw... buts watts are watts regardless.

You’re calculations are good...and as you’ve likely discovered, heated gear can draw a bit of juice. One thing to consider if you don’t want to do a full conversion is get a backup battery (cheap this time of year) for the phone; just make sure it has a 2.1A (or higher) USB port.


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Yeah, I have a battery for the phone and this is an option to consider in the cold weather as well...good call.

Another question though, in your calculation of total watts used by the stock bike you got to 110W but that included all 4 turn signals at 10W each while the high beams are on. Am I not correct that the only time all 4 turn signals are on is when you have the flashers going? And if that's correct, wouldn't it pretty much be that your bike is in trouble and you're likely pulled over to the side of the road so the odds of having the high beams on would be quite low?

Granted, it's best to calculate worst case scenario when calculating electrical load but under normal riding conditions would it not be fair to assume only 2 of the turn signals would be on at any given time and therein reduce the max by 20W down to 90W total?

Or am I missing something?

Thanks again and happy Thanksgiving!

Chris
 

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Hi.
Good to see this very useful thread up and running again.
I have replaced all the bulbs except for the headlight (bit dodgy here, in France) but have a bit of a problem with calculating overall consumption, given that I had already added led side/indicator lights and have been unable to find the consumption figures for them.
If I installed a voltmeter, fixed on to the bars, would that be a good enough check?
Thanks
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Yeah, I have a battery for the phone and this is an option to consider in the cold weather as well...good call.



Another question though, in your calculation of total watts used by the stock bike you got to 110W but that included all 4 turn signals at 10W each while the high beams are on. Am I not correct that the only time all 4 turn signals are on is when you have the flashers going? And if that's correct, wouldn't it pretty much be that your bike is in trouble and you're likely pulled over to the side of the road so the odds of having the high beams on would be quite low?



Granted, it's best to calculate worst case scenario when calculating electrical load but under normal riding conditions would it not be fair to assume only 2 of the turn signals would be on at any given time and therein reduce the max by 20W down to 90W total?



Or am I missing something?



Thanks again and happy Thanksgiving!



Chris


Chris:

Yes, the situation you stated stated above is a safe assumption.

Being an engineer, I always deal with worse-case scenarios. Also someone is sure to point out that this load is intermittent, only being present when the lamps are illuminated. Again, I go with the worst-case load from a design standpoint.


Ride safe!
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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Hi.

Good to see this very useful thread up and running again.

I have replaced all the bulbs except for the headlight (bit dodgy here, in France) but have a bit of a problem with calculating overall consumption, given that I had already added led side/indicator lights and have been unable to find the consumption figures for them.

If I installed a voltmeter, fixed on to the bars, would that be a good enough check?

Thanks

Mike


Mike:

I don't think a voltmeter would be the correct instrument; it only measures voltage, not current.

On the LED lamps you have replaced, they should have a rating in watts. For LED lamps this wattage is an expression of electrical power, not an indication of how much light they emit.

The most accurate way to measure the actual current draw, and therefore calculate the wattage would be to insert a DC ammeter in series with one of the lamps. Take the measured amperage times the applied voltage (now you get to measure voltage with your voltmeter)... The product of those two numbers is the actual wattage.

My bet is the actual amps those individual lights pull (LEDs) are on the order of milliamps...

Make sense?

Ride safe!
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Chris:

Yes, the situation you stated stated above is a safe assumption.

Being an engineer, I always deal with worse-case scenarios. Also someone is sure to point out that this load is intermittent, only being present when the lamps are illuminated. Again, I go with the worst-case load from a design standpoint.


Ride safe!
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Excellent! Figured as much but wanted to confirm.

Thanks!!
 

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Really handy to have information. Does anyone make a stronger alternator coil ?
 

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Really handy to have information. Does anyone make a stronger alternator coil ?

Kawasaki Versys 650 is a 40W Stator

Needs Stator Cover, Stator, and a 10mwh Battery
Cover is $72.83; utilizes the same gasket so should bolt up. Stator $204.74, Utilizes Same Rotor, and voltage regulator, utilizes a different battery $162.13

$439.70 is it worth it for 15 more Watts?


Saddle up and feel the wind in your Helmet! ATGATT



Saddle up and feel the wind in your Helmet! ATGATT
 

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Kawasaki Versys 650 is a 40W Stator

Needs Stator Cover, Stator, and a 10mwh Battery
Cover is $72.83; utilizes the same gasket so should bolt up. Stator $204.74, Utilizes Same Rotor, and voltage regulator, utilizes a different battery $162.13

$439.70 is it worth it for 15 more Watts?
As mentioned in another thread and possibly in this thread too considering I got a post reminder.

This is an expensive mod and that's why I didn't pull the trigger some 12 or so months ago.

Just waiting on parts to flow through to the wreckers to get something second hand. Being a learners bike you tend to see low mileage wrecks due to in experience.
 
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