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After riding the Vulcan around 500 miles, wouldn't you know it, a grinding sound started surfacing. Removed the rear wheel to check the bearings and all associated parts in that area, all was fine. Determined it is coming from the belt drive pulley area. I have read a few threads on working in that area and realize it is time consuming. Is there any special tools other than the correct sockets to be able to remove and replace these bearings. has anyone change these before. Trying to determine if this is beneficial for me to do or put it back together and let the shop handle it. Information on this repair would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Before you pull the final drive apart, check that little plastic rock deflector over the belt. I had to cut the back of mine a bit to stop it from rubbing on the belt. I haven't had the bearings out on that side but I did have to change the pulley as it had come loose (recall notice) and rattled around a bit. I have a pile of miles on my V2K, almost all of it with the GVW topped out and haven't had any issue with the bearings in the output shaft.... having said that, I did knock out the bearing on the vibration dampener/driven pulley pretty quickly and ended up getting the double bearing pulley from a newer model of V2K (2006 I think):nerd:
 

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Thanks for the tidbit. My son and I have just about stripped the back end and have removed the belt pully. All is fine there and rotating the shaft it doesn't feel smooth as it should and I feel this is where the issues is. Now I have to read up and figure out how to remove and replace the bearings. I am sure this is not going to be a quick fix, but like the turtle, slow and steady. :) Any other information that anyone can share would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Thanks, have downloaded the manual and removed the shaft. I need to read a little on this site to upload pictures. May help someone with the same issue I am having.
 

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The left side bearing for the belt drive shaft was worn out. With this type of bearing and not getting a steady supply of oil, I can see why they do not last as they should. Removing the assembly from the bike was not as complicated as I had imagined. One thing that had me puzzled was the instructions Kawasaki had listed in filling the coolant system. There are two models, one with a bleeder screw and one without (stock with a small hole in the thermostat). Of course this one came without one. You are instructed to fill the radiator, start and let the motor run while watching for all the air (bubbles) in the cap area to stop. Duh! How in the heck can someone do that when the wiring harness, fuel lines etc. are to short to move the tank out of the way. Anyways this is how I solved that issue. Loosening the two hose clamps from the thermostat housing and the two 10 mm bolts holding the support bracket, I lifted the unit out of the way. Then filling the radiator from the exit side of the unit and watching for the coolant level to rise in the inlet hose to the housing unit within one inch from the top waited for the level to settle. I carefully reinstalled the thermostat unit and secured it in place. I added a little more coolant to the radiator cap side and let it settle. This allowed the small hole in the thermostat to purge the rest of the air also added 16 ounces of coolant to the secondary tank. A Long story short, secured radiator cap, tank and giving the bike a once over for loose nuts and bolts and then went for a test drive. Wow what a difference a new bearing makes. The Vulcan rides like a dream.
 
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