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Just wanted to say that I did this mod after adding led turn signals.
I added the four turn signals (two forward, two aft) and got the four-way hazard light blink. Nice to have since the Vulcan does not have flashers. But I could not leave her that way. So I did the mod as described (thanks for the pics) and it worked like a charm.
While I was in there, I left the original t/s on the front but changed the orange lens to a clear one and added a led bulb. I also removed the t/s wire from it (I used that on the led t/s) making it a light bar sort of. With the led t/s above them. Check pic.
Thanks for the mod post, I'm sure it has helped a lot of riders.
 

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Thanks for the guide, followed it and all went great!
Now waiting for the LED flasher to arrive to install it along with the rear bulbs which I have converted to running+turn.
I intend to keep the front bulbs not LED as they are not on all the time so do not draw current when not used.
 

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Will this work on 01 1500 classic? It is equipped with running and turn. Also did you replace the thermal flasher with electric? Only problem I see that I will have is no matter how hard I try my soderinng sucks. Lol
 

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No it will not if anyone was curious as well. Lol completely different wiring just two wires coming from indicator light green and yellow. I just cut them and also swapped running and signal wires as well. Everything works great also I guess due to the lack of electronic flasher relay the back turn signals are now running lights as well.
 

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How do I get the speedo face off? The 2 screws on the face of it? I took apart to that point and got stuck.

Thanks.
 

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In case anyone irreparably screws up the wiring you can buy a new "Lamp assembly" board which comes with the multi-wire ribbon cable that you have to cut for this mod. It's part # 23016-1186 and spans many years of the 900, but you should still check to ensure proper part. It's roughly $65. It's easy to accidentally pull a wire from its contact with not much force. Better to release the contact from the header via 2Lucky's post in Post 10.
 

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I’ve had the issue with all 4 lights flashing at the same time. I’ve bought several flashing relays and LEDs with resisters built-in to prevent this issue and none worked. After searching online for hours, trying different ”fixes“ and LED combinations I stumbled upon this post. So I bought the diode kit and gave it a shot and it worked like a charm. The instructions were clear and easy to understand. If you follow the instructions exactly I can confirm it works.

Thanks to 2Lucky and everyone that contributed to making this set of instructions.

240820
240821
240822
240823
 

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I don't understand why folks disassemble the gauges to do this. It can almost certainly be done within the wiring harness (and be a less risky, less anxiety-provoking operation).
 

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I don't understand why folks disassemble the gauges to do this. It can almost certainly be done within the wiring harness (and be a less risky, less anxiety-provoking operation).
Just for a cleaner install I guess. I'm the type of guy that run my HDMI and speaker cables through the walls behind my TV just to hide the wires. So this was right up my ally.
 

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VN900 Diode mod: Your all LED turn signal / Indicator solution

If you're looking to switch over to all LED turn signals, Doing this mod will correct the feedback issue that causes your turn signal indicator to stop working, and remedy All 4 turn signals coming on together. You will still need to wire in resistors(waste of power/time/$ IMO) or replace the stock thermal flasher with a electronic flasher unit($9 on ebay/Plug and Play), to correct "No Flash" and blink rate...

Hey guys, I searched the forums for info on this mod before I took the project on for myself. What I found is vague information, generic pictographs and a lot of you still asking questions. The clearest instruction I found, recommended cutting up the factory harness to splice into the turn leads(green and grey) and adding a ground to the frame. While this will work, the diode kits are fragile, use 22 gauge wire(very thin with rigid wire diodes attached), requires you to add an unsightly and exposed ground, and splicing into a harness near its connection point, is never a good idea.
My recommendation: Keep the install clean and weather tight, and inside the instrument cluster...

Here's how:
Step 1 Remove the single screw holding the speedometer bezel in place.
View attachment 111977

Step 2 Lift the tail end of the bezel upwards to clear the trim ring of the speedo and rock it left and right while holding the front of the bezel and pulling it forward until it slides off of the two steel guides.

Step 3 Pull down the rubber boot at the front underside of the speedo cluster and disconnect the harness by pushing in the button facing the front of the bike and gently wiggle side to side while pulling down.

Step 4 Lift the tail end of the speedo above the standoff and rock forward, left and right as you did with the bezel.
View attachment 111961

Ok, you have done half of the physical work(reassembly comes later). Now take the speedo cluster into the comfort of your home or workshop, to a well lit work area. Grab a coffee, beer or whatever and get comfortable...

Step 5 Put newspapers or a towel down, and set the cluster face down on top of it. Carefully press the rubber bushing through the hole at the bottom of the case, it is holding the two half's together and will prevent separation if left in place. Next, using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 5 outside perimeter screws.

Step 6 Once the screws are out, carefully flip the speedo over and separate the speedo face from the case body. Locate the 8 wire harness below the speedometer, leading from the small indicator board, to the header on the speedo circuit board.
Using your fingers or a small flat blade screwdriver, gently pry the header free and then remove the single Phillips head screw holding the indicator board in place.
View attachment 112089

Remove the indicator board from the casing, and set the casing safely aside.
With the indicator board removed, our job just got easier!
We now have all the room we could ask for to install the diode kit, in the comfort of your work space, away from the bike!
An EASY winter project.

Here is a picture that shows what all the wires are for, but the only ones we will be concerned with are numbers 2(GROUND),5(RT SIG +),and 6(LT SIG+)
View attachment 112097

Step 7 Carefully count over from left to right, to wires 5 and 6, cut them(in half) halfway between the indicator board and the header for the speedo board.
Strip no more than 1/8 inch of insulation away from both sides of wires 5 and 6

Step 8 Next, use a razor blade and remove a 1/8 inch of insulation from around wire number 2 nearer the indicator board side. Without cutting through the wire!!!

Step 9
Using a good soldering kit, and your favorite solder(I like 60/40 @ 240C degrees ) attach the two positive leads of the diode kit(mine was CustomDynamics Red) to the header(speedo) side of wires 5 and 6. It does not matter what wire you solder to which lead, just solder one to each of them. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on the wires before you solder them!!

Step 10
The single lead on the tail end of the diode kit(mine was White) gets soldered to wire number 6 on the indicator board side. Again, Don't forget the heat shrink!!

Step 11
Your last connection! Wire number 5 of the indicator board needs to be wrapped around the exposed copper of wire number 2 and solder them together. There is no need for heat shrink or insulation on this connection as it is a ground inside a closed case, but some of you may prefer to do so just for good measure.

All board connections completed.
View attachment 112225

Step 12 Re-install the indicator board into the speedo casing and replace the single Phillips screw that secures it. Reconnect the header to the speedo board and fan the wires to the right so that they neatly rest under the speedometer face. There is plenty of room to tuck the diode kit wires under the indicator board and keep them out of the way.

Here, I would have shown a completed picture, but I reached the maximum number of pics allowed. Besides, if you followed along, you already know what it looks like!

The final step is to put the speedo back together by replacing the 5 screws on the back, replacing the rubber bushing in the bottom hole of the case, and putting everything back on the bike.

Side-note: It does not matter if you use LED's or standard bulbs for your turn signals after this mod is completed. The indicator lamp will continue to function as it was always intended. Doing this mod will allow you to swap out the clusters standard indicator bulb for LED if you choose to do so, as the polarity no longer reverses when Left or Right turn signals are activated.

Enjoy your new mod!
2lucky
 

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49 Posts
VN900 Diode mod: Your all LED turn signal / Indicator solution

If you're looking to switch over to all LED turn signals, Doing this mod will correct the feedback issue that causes your turn signal indicator to stop working, and remedy All 4 turn signals coming on together. You will still need to wire in resistors(waste of power/time/$ IMO) or replace the stock thermal flasher with a electronic flasher unit($9 on ebay/Plug and Play), to correct "No Flash" and blink rate...

Hey guys, I searched the forums for info on this mod before I took the project on for myself. What I found is vague information, generic pictographs and a lot of you still asking questions. The clearest instruction I found, recommended cutting up the factory harness to splice into the turn leads(green and grey) and adding a ground to the frame. While this will work, the diode kits are fragile, use 22 gauge wire(very thin with rigid wire diodes attached), requires you to add an unsightly and exposed ground, and splicing into a harness near its connection point, is never a good idea.
My recommendation: Keep the install clean and weather tight, and inside the instrument cluster...

Here's how:
Step 1 Remove the single screw holding the speedometer bezel in place.
View attachment 111977

Step 2 Lift the tail end of the bezel upwards to clear the trim ring of the speedo and rock it left and right while holding the front of the bezel and pulling it forward until it slides off of the two steel guides.

Step 3 Pull down the rubber boot at the front underside of the speedo cluster and disconnect the harness by pushing in the button facing the front of the bike and gently wiggle side to side while pulling down.

Step 4 Lift the tail end of the speedo above the standoff and rock forward, left and right as you did with the bezel.
View attachment 111961

Ok, you have done half of the physical work(reassembly comes later). Now take the speedo cluster into the comfort of your home or workshop, to a well lit work area. Grab a coffee, beer or whatever and get comfortable...

Step 5 Put newspapers or a towel down, and set the cluster face down on top of it. Carefully press the rubber bushing through the hole at the bottom of the case, it is holding the two half's together and will prevent separation if left in place. Next, using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 5 outside perimeter screws.

Step 6 Once the screws are out, carefully flip the speedo over and separate the speedo face from the case body. Locate the 8 wire harness below the speedometer, leading from the small indicator board, to the header on the speedo circuit board.
Using your fingers or a small flat blade screwdriver, gently pry the header free and then remove the single Phillips head screw holding the indicator board in place.
View attachment 112089

Remove the indicator board from the casing, and set the casing safely aside.
With the indicator board removed, our job just got easier!
We now have all the room we could ask for to install the diode kit, in the comfort of your work space, away from the bike!
An EASY winter project.

Here is a picture that shows what all the wires are for, but the only ones we will be concerned with are numbers 2(GROUND),5(RT SIG +),and 6(LT SIG+)
View attachment 112097

Step 7 Carefully count over from left to right, to wires 5 and 6, cut them(in half) halfway between the indicator board and the header for the speedo board.
Strip no more than 1/8 inch of insulation away from both sides of wires 5 and 6

Step 8 Next, use a razor blade and remove a 1/8 inch of insulation from around wire number 2 nearer the indicator board side. Without cutting through the wire!!!

Step 9
Using a good soldering kit, and your favorite solder(I like 60/40 @ 240C degrees ) attach the two positive leads of the diode kit(mine was CustomDynamics Red) to the header(speedo) side of wires 5 and 6. It does not matter what wire you solder to which lead, just solder one to each of them. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on the wires before you solder them!!

Step 10
The single lead on the tail end of the diode kit(mine was White) gets soldered to wire number 6 on the indicator board side. Again, Don't forget the heat shrink!!

Step 11
Your last connection! Wire number 5 of the indicator board needs to be wrapped around the exposed copper of wire number 2 and solder them together. There is no need for heat shrink or insulation on this connection as it is a ground inside a closed case, but some of you may prefer to do so just for good measure.

All board connections completed.
View attachment 112225

Step 12 Re-install the indicator board into the speedo casing and replace the single Phillips screw that secures it. Reconnect the header to the speedo board and fan the wires to the right so that they neatly rest under the speedometer face. There is plenty of room to tuck the diode kit wires under the indicator board and keep them out of the way.

Here, I would have shown a completed picture, but I reached the maximum number of pics allowed. Besides, if you followed along, you already know what it looks like!

The final step is to put the speedo back together by replacing the 5 screws on the back, replacing the rubber bushing in the bottom hole of the case, and putting everything back on the bike.

Side-note: It does not matter if you use LED's or standard bulbs for your turn signals after this mod is completed. The indicator lamp will continue to function as it was always intended. Doing this mod will allow you to swap out the clusters standard indicator bulb for LED if you choose to do so, as the polarity no longer reverses when Left or Right turn signals are activated.

Enjoy your new mod!
2lucky
Thanks I did the mod works great(y)
 

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The instructions mention "diode kit (mine was CustomDynamics Red) ". Are you referring to GENESIS METRIC CRUISER DIODE KIT? Do you need 2 of these kits? Or can you just use plain diodes? If so, what size diodes?
 

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The instructions mention "diode kit (mine was CustomDynamics Red) ". Are you referring to GENESIS METRIC CRUISER DIODE KIT? Do you need 2 of these kits? Or can you just use plain diodes? If so, what size diodes?
I used this kit.

 
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