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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay, so here's what's happend thus far.

2 batteries both load tested and working fine and were fully charged before use.

R/R tested and working fine.

Stator tested and showing charging at 3000 rpm of about 14-15 volts.

Bike is 1997 VN1500A, 19000 miles on clock, owned for about 5 months.

I ride for about half a day motorway and City speeds and when stopped won't start. Also have had it cut out whilst riding but when stationary at traffic lights or stop junction.

I imagine the problem to be a short somewhere on the bike. Any ideas on how to test for this?

I have a digital multimeter model EM3055 http://elmarkholding.eu/en/Digital_Multimeter_EM3055/p414.html
 

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With the battery,R&R and Stator functioning correctly, I'm thinking you have a short too. Check for a parasitic draw in your system. At your battery, disconnect the positive terminal and then with your multimeter set to DC Volts, probe the positive battery terminal and the free end of the positive cable you just removed. Do this with the key off. Assuming you have no accessories like a clock or something that does use current all the time, you should have zero voltage. If you do have a voltage reading, congratulation, you have short. Haha. If so, pull fuses one at a time and recheck your voltage reading and that will help narrow it down to what wires have the short. Good luck and keep us posted. BTW I'm going through exactly the same thing on my 1981 Honda CB900 resto. I'm pulling .6V somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your hasty reply

Thanks for that. I'm going to go and pick up my bike from where it decided to finish its journey yesterday and I'll give testing it a shot. Will definitely let you know what I find. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think I've found it.

I tried what you Kawi Rick. I disconnected the positive terminal from the battery and then used my multimeter to measure the voltage leaving the battery with no key in and surprise, surprise it was reading .8V so I pulled the fuses one at a time but it still measured .8V so as I pressed in the acc fuse it registered 11.6V I then pressed down on all the fuses individually and found a similar reading with the fan fuse pressed down.
I'm guessing the fuse box (junction box) is messed up.
Should I bother trying to fix it or replace it entirely?

Thanks again for your help
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay so I've taken the junction box off of the bike and tested it as per the service manual and all seems to be functioning as it should.
I just don't understand how when it was mounted to the bike and I asserted minimal pressure on the junction box that it would induce a current draw of over 11V.
Any ideas?
And if it isn't the junction box and when I pulled all the fuses and there was still a draw what would be a likely culprit?

Any and all suggestions are welcome!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sfair, I tested it as per suggestions on other threads found here. I am more than willing to test again if you can enlighten me on the best practice. I'd rather rule out things 100% than to get to the stage where I fork out money for someone else to rectify a problem I could solve myself.
 

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See post #11.

Also, I am suspecting the .8v you were getting was a phantom reading which sometimes digital meters will do.
 

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Sorry, I'm new to this forum stuff. How do I find post #11?
Haha, that's a good one. I don't understand why pressing on the fuses would make your voltage go up to 11V. Doesn't seem like that should happen, so may indicate a problem. Maybe just don't press on them anymore.:)

I'm wondering about phantom voltage that sfair mentioned as well since I'm getting the same type of reading on my 81 Honda. I wonder if it's a meter issue and not a bike issue. Keep us posted as you go. I'll post up anything I uncover on mine too. Maybe there's some commonality between them.
 

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Haha, that's a good one. I don't understand why pressing on the fuses would make your voltage go up to 11V. Doesn't seem like that should happen, so may indicate a problem. Maybe just don't press on them anymore.:)

I'm wondering about phantom voltage that sfair mentioned as well since I'm getting the same type of reading on my 81 Honda. I wonder if it's a meter issue and not a bike issue. Keep us posted as you go. I'll post up anything I uncover on mine too. Maybe there's some commonality between them.
Grab onto the probes of your meter and see how many volts you can get.
It is not a meter problem, exactly, but they have such a high input impedance that they can be sensitive to stray stuff.
 

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Yeah I did this and it does wander around a little bit, but it's in the 3-5 mV range, but when I hook it back up to check my parasitic draw in jumps to .6V which is a lot more. That makes me think it's probably an accurate reading.

Not trying to hijack the thread, but since it's related I'll ask. I pulled all my fuses and disconnected all the connections housed in my headlight bucket and the parasitc draw was still there. Would that suggest it's occurring on the supply side to the ignition switch? That sure would help narrow it down if it does.
 

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If your meter is showing .6v, that means the remaining voltage, 12v minus .6v = 11.4v is being dropped across the bike. If the input impedance of your meter is 10megohm, then the bikes resistance is approx. 12 times that...120megohm. I do not think that is anything to worry about.

If you want to really check for a loss, set your meter to measure current and put the leads in series with the battery cable, key off of course.
 

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I played with it some more tonight and got the .6V to come and go as I plugged the R&R in and out. That led me to pull it off and resistance test it per the manual and it flunked the test. Also, when I measured the charging voltage when I ran the bike it was only 11.9V. All this leads to a bad R&R. At least I hope so since it was an easy find and because I just bought a new one on ebay. :D

Edit:
I will check it again using current instead of Voltage. Probably should have done it that way first. Live and learn. I'll report back what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I tried some test again

I tried some tests again.
When I started the bike with choke on had a reading of 14.5 volts coming back to the battery. When choke was disengaged the bike showed 12.06 volts, I then revved the bike up to high rpms and it didn't fluctuate at all.
I understand that this shows me that there is no charging happening with the battery and is what is causing my bike to lose power and die.
What do you figure it could be? I've had the r/r off and tested.
Is it most likely pointing to a bad or grounded stator?
Appreciate your help guys!
 

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Sounds like it could be intermittent.
Do an AC loaded stator test on all three phases at 1 minute intervals while the engine is running from dead cold to hot.
 

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Mine did exactly this. It was Voltage regulator. Headlight would also randomly not come on during start. Regulator was not expensive on e-bay.
 

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I don't believe a test of voltage with the meter in series between the battery and a battery cable provides any meaningful result.

Change the setting to measure current then repeat (with key off) to see if there is any unusual parasitic draw.
 
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