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Discussion Starter #1
Stepson has one and we are removing the raked triple trees he had on and
putting the stock ones back on. The raked ones were crappy they leaked fork
oil all the time.

Anyways the question I have is the lower tree goes on and at the top you
have the bearing an oil seal then a dust cover and then the notched nuts
that tighten the lower tree up. My question is the dust cover seems to have
an 1/8th to a 1/4 inch play up and down , is this normal.
 

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Yep. Not sure if you'll definitely get an answer in here but there are much more 900 drivers in here than the other forum. Good luck to you.
 

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I wandered out to take a look at the stem bearing on my VN900.

The "dust cover" does not flop around on my bike...see arrow in the image.

When re-assembling the triple tree, the shop manual says to leave the lower fork clamp bolts loose until the correct torque is obtained on the stem bearing - so the fork clamps do not interfere with the sliding of the upper tree as it slides downward as you torque the stem bearing nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you look at the manual for the 900 custom on page 14-9 they show a diagram and it looks like there is a gap there. I belive they refer to it as a stem cap.
 

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I don't know what to say to ya - on my Custom the Stem Cap (C) is tight under the stem nut (D). I'm looking at page 14-9 of the manual. If you are following the reassembly procedure (including settling the bearings at 40 ft-lb torque), then loosing off the stem nut, and re-torquing to 43 INCH-POUNDS - then I don't know what to say.

Without me disassembling my triple-tree (nope), I'd put it all together according to the manual, and then check for play in the head bearings (see manual page 2-36 to 2-37).
 

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Here's a pic it has like a quarter inch of play up and down.
The black plastic cap is not load bearing. The steering stem nut has an inner shoulder that the plastic cap fits around.

-IF- the nut is factory and has the correct depth shoulder the cap should not move up and down. -IF- the nut is factory and the plastic cap is moving up and down you should be able to jack your front end off the ground and also get 1/4" play up/down in your entire front end. This means you have assembled it wrong.

-IF- the steering stem nut is NOT factory and is leftover from the other triple tree then all bets are off and you are on your own.

StearStemNut.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The black plastic cap is not load bearing. The steering stem nut has an inner shoulder that the plastic cap fits around.

-IF- the nut is factory and has the correct depth shoulder the cap should not move up and down. -IF- the nut is factory and the plastic cap is moving up and down you should be able to jack your front end off the ground and also get 1/4" play up/down in your entire front end. This means you have assembled it wrong.

-IF- the steering stem nut is NOT factory and is leftover from the other triple tree then all bets are off and you are on your own.

View attachment 229792

If you look mat page 14.8 in the manual the second diagram shows what appears to be a gap between E and the dust cover. I will check for up and down on the forks and take it apart again. Did you check the cover on your bike? The two nuts are factory items C and E in the diagram on page 14-8.

Thanks appreciate the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here's a couple of pics , I don't think anything is missing, there is zero play in the front end. My stepson checked another bike and he said there was no movement in the dust shield. I think going from the bottom its Bearing----seal ---- dust cover ----- the 2 locking nuts.


You can see the gap in the first pic. Maybe there's something wrong with the dust cover?
 

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Here's a couple of pics , I don't think anything is missing, there is zero play in the front end. My stepson checked another bike and he said there was no movement in the dust shield. I think going from the bottom its Bearing----seal ---- dust cover ----- the 2 locking nuts.


You can see the gap in the first pic. Maybe there's something wrong with the dust cover?
If there is zero play in the front end and you have the nut tightened to 45-50 INCH pounds with the fork bolts sloppy loose (then button every thing up) and it rides okay, then you are good to go. There is probably something wrong with the dust cap, but, it is not load bearing and it is not sealed. I would replace it when I got the chance or was working on something else in that area and had an excuse to tear the front end apart again.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If there is zero play in the front end and you have the nut tightened to 45-50 INCH pounds with the fork bolts sloppy loose (then button every thing up) and it rides okay, then you are good to go. There is probably something wrong with the dust cap, but, it is not load bearing and it is not sealed. I would replace it when I got the chance or was working on something else in that area and had an excuse to tear the front end apart again.

The only thing i can think of is we also replaced the tapered steering head bearings and maybe they aren't seated properly. They edge of the top outer race is even with top of the steering head.
 

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The only thing i can think of is we also replaced the tapered steering head bearings and maybe they aren't seated properly. They edge of the top outer race is even with top of the steering head.
OK, They may not be seated properly as I remember every one that I have done being just 1/32" under flush. However, yours, at whatever spot the races are at, at this time, are stationary, and un-movable, and you say you have no play in the front end when it is in the air. The races might crank back into a more seated position as you ride the bike, causing the front end to get sloppy and then you would have to re-adjust the steering stem nut.

Anywho... at this time, and under the conditions of no play, with the caveat emptors listed above, you should be good to go riding. Replace the plastic dust cap at the next service or when you feel like tearing the front end up for another reason. I would not make a special trip to go in and replace that dust cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, They may not be seated properly as I remember every one that I have done being just 1/32" under flush. However, yours, at whatever spot the races are at, at this time, are stationary, and un-movable, and you say you have no play in the front end when it is in the air. The races might crank back into a more seated position as you ride the bike, causing the front end to get sloppy and then you would have to re-adjust the steering stem nut.

Anywho... at this time, and under the conditions of no play, with the caveat emptors listed above, you should be good to go riding. Replace the plastic dust cap at the next service or when you feel like tearing the front end up for another reason. I would not make a special trip to go in and replace that dust cap.
Thanks for your help.

Here's the last pics pic 4 is a pic of the race seated and pic 5 is tightened up without the dust seal. I tried seating the races a bit more but they don't seem to want to move. I'm going to try tightening up the nut leave it for an hour or so and see if I can tighten it any more.
 

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Thanks for your help.

Here's the last pics pic 4 is a pic of the race seated and pic 5 is tightened up without the dust seal. I tried seating the races a bit more but they don't seem to want to move. I'm going to try tightening up the nut leave it for an hour or so and see if I can tighten it any more.
If you are using a bearing driver and using and old race on top of your new race and getting solid "ting"'s when you are hammering it in, it will not go any further in. Stop and don't pound on it any more. If you are using a plate on the bottom with a hole in it and a plate on the top with a hole in it and using an old race underneath the top plate as a spacer/driver and an allthread with nuts on each end to pull the top race in, DO NOT use impact to bottom the top race(you will overspeed and crack the neck tube).

I bet you are down already.

Pre-load on the bearing is about 30 FT LBs or so. Don't get wild. Final torque is only 40-50 INCH POUNDS MAX being just enough to hold the front end together with no play. The fork bolts should be sloppy loose when you are doing this and the front end should be elevated just off the ground. Tap the triple tree with a rubber hammer as you are going to pre-load (and maybe even slide the forks up/down so you know you have freedom of movement).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you are using a bearing driver and using and old race on top of your new race and getting solid "ting"'s when you are hammering it in, it will not go any further in. Stop and don't pound on it any more. If you are using a plate on the bottom with a hole in it and a plate on the top with a hole in it and using an old race underneath the top plate as a spacer/driver and an allthread with nuts on each end to pull the top race in, DO NOT use impact to bottom the top race(you will overspeed and crack the neck tube).

I bet you are down already.

Pre-load on the bearing is about 30 FT LBs or so. Don't get wild. Final torque is only 40-50 INCH POUNDS MAX being just enough to hold the front end together with no play. The fork bolts should be sloppy loose when you are doing this and the front end should be elevated just off the ground. Tap the triple tree with a rubber hammer as you are going to pre-load (and maybe even slide the forks up/down so you know you have freedom of movement).
Thanks, I tried a bit to seat them more, no movement so I said they must be as far in as possible. Followed manual to torque then backed off and then left at around 45 inch pounds or so. Used a mirror to look in at where they seat and it looked good. Everything feels tight put about 80 KM's on it with no problems. Here's what I used to tighten the nuts up with, from my Goldwing, worked perfect used a half inch torque wrench with it..
 

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