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I have been using the EXT 0.25-0.30 setting on mine. I understand they changed the setting to 0.20-0.25 later on. As for the thickness you'll need, if your mesurement is .10 too tight, get a shim that much thinner than what is in there now. Measure each vlave, they most likely wont all bee the same. If you buy a kit, you can simply try thicker or thinner shims till you get the reading you need. Valve tend to get tighter as they wear, so should need thinner shim than what is in it now.
Thanks for reply. Bike has 25.000 km and never had a valve adjustment. Also there is a thicking sound coming from the engine (could be that the ticking sound is coming from the EXT valve marked by me with F2, quite high clearance).
My actual configuration is as in the picture. If I choose the 0,2-0,25 for EXT, then only valves F3 and R2 are OK.
I understood that shims can be reused.
 

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marcelm, you are correct. By the way, if you are border line on the shims of being on the tight side or loose side, go loose. These motors should have a lite ticking when adjusted properly, like a well oiled sewing machine. Not a loud tick, but suttle and smooth.
 

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marcelm, you are correct. By the way, if you are border line on the shims of being on the tight side or loose side, go loose. These motors should have a lite ticking when adjusted properly, like a well oiled sewing machine. Not a loud tick, but suttle and smooth.
Thanks for the informations rick.
I have also read that the valves tend to go loose, or tight ...depend on engine design/type and depend on which is getting worn first, the valve train or the valve seat.
In my case, the actual clearances are out of spec into the loose side and it's hard to belive (?) that the clearances was even bigger than that. I don't know ..
This is my first time checking the valve clearance at the Vulcan, I do not have a history behind, to see the trend (loose or tight, over time).
Do you speak from your experience, as you have checked more times the valve clearance ?
Sorry, that looks like an interrogation ...:)
 

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I didnt do mine the 1st time till I had around 60,000 miles on it because the manual says the motor needs to be removed. Thanks to a thread on here, I finally did it without removing the motor. They were tight by this time. The third? time I started getting a mix of tight and loose. On the forth time the exhaust was getting tight, but also noticed cam lobe wear, so I replaced the cams at arund 86,000. I think between low idle speed caused lack of oil to the top end combined with the long interval before my 1st adjustment caused them to wear quicker. Besides this isuue, this bike has been bullit proof tp the current 108,000 miles and counting.
 

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I didnt do mine the 1st time till I had around 60,000 miles on it because the manual says the motor needs to be removed. Thanks to a thread on here, I finally did it without removing the motor. They were tight by this time. The third? time I started getting a mix of tight and loose. On the forth time the exhaust was getting tight, but also noticed cam lobe wear, so I replaced the cams at arund 86,000. I think between low idle speed caused lack of oil to the top end combined with the long interval before my 1st adjustment caused them to wear quicker. Besides this isuue, this bike has been bullit proof tp the current 108,000 miles and counting.
Thanks.

Very good mileage !!! Wish you many miles ahed !
When you say "low idle speed", did you changed the idle speed by making it lower ?
 

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Yes I did, to get that big cam loppy idle. Have it idling a little faster now, can still tell its a V Twin, but doesnt have that cammy lope as much.
 

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please sticky this

To whom controls all things stickied,

please sticky the gem of information, I believe all of us (past nooblits, present nooblits, and future nooblits) will undoubtfully make use of this to keep their 800's singing like a singer sewing machine. very useful tech info.

To the OP, Thanks for putting this up.

03MOJO
 

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To whom controls all things stickied,

please sticky the gem of information, I believe all of us (past nooblits, present nooblits, and future nooblits) will undoubtfully make use of this to keep their 800's singing like a singer sewing machine. very useful tech info.

To the OP, Thanks for putting this up.

03MOJO

Done!
__________
 

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I did my VN800B for the fist time on Sunday. I don't know if the previous owners ever had this done but I bought the bike with 10k miles and I put another 1k on the bike. Ironic, the biggest problem I had was getting the service cover off as that Philips head screw would not budge and had to use a screw/bolt extractor to get it out :eek:

Mine was super tight on the rear cylinder

Front Intake was 2.45 (both sides) change to 2.40 (both) for 0.127 clearance
Front Exhaust was in spec - 0.229 so I never pulled the shim.

Rear intake had 2.40 and 2.45 changed to 1.45 and 1.50 for 0.127 clearance
Rear exhaust had 2.55 and 2.60 changed to 2.20 and 2.45 with 0.253 clearance

I also changed oil and coolant. One thing I notice that I hear the valves more then I did before. Perhaps because the have some gap now and they were not working on trashing the motor.

I was also glad I had bought the full shim kit as mine was so out of spec on the rear cylinder I had to rotate the cam to get the over tight shims out and then dropped smaller ones in to even get a base measure once I got top center again.

It made me wonder if someone did the front cylinder but never did the rear one hence it was so far off compared to the front???

Anyways, thanks for everyone sharing and I wish I had done this over the winter before I put the extra 1000 miles on it. It wasn't hard - other then that silly screw!

EDIT TO ADD: After a couple days driving the bike to work I have noticed that the sound of the bike has changed too. Before it had more of a lobbing sound that was more "Harley-Like" where now the bike is smoother running with a lower thump factor. The bike definitely is performing better however and I have to see if my gas mileage improves but in my traffic laden commute that will be hard to compare accurately!
 

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Did mine last weekend. Every valve took a thinner shim (ranging -.05mm to-.20 mm) to bring back into spec @ 12,500mi. I doubt the previous owner ever did it. Also glad I bought the HotCams kit off Amazon. Some of the intake shims could be used on the exhaust but the intakes all needed thinner shims. I was concerned with the noise after doing the valve job, but after reading here it seems normal. Before the job it was more of a clank---clank---clank. Now it's just a smooth ptptptptptptptpt, if that makes sense.
 

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This might be a fairly stupid question, but as I'm reading over the instructions, I do not see the figures labeled VA0x... I looked in the manual as well and didn't see them. I'm going to work on this this weekend as I'm finding out I'm WELL overdue.
 

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I got 2 boxes, but were 1/2 that size. Range looks like what I have and the 9.48 dia. is what you need. Looks right to me. I got mine about 5 years ago, so packaging may have changed.
 

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Did mine last weekend. The front cylinder was too tight, rear too loose. Man, I'm falling in love with my bike again....
 

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I'm about to reach the 12k mark and will be doing this adjustment soon. Was draining the coolant necessary or is it just a recommended step? Also will any other fluids need to be drained in order to do this procedure?
 

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I'm about to reach the 12k mark and will be doing this adjustment soon. Was draining the coolant necessary or is it just a recommended step? Also will any other fluids need to be drained in order to do this procedure?
I've never drained mine, I just pull the hose off so I can swing filler thingy out of the way to get the covers off. You lose a little fluid but it's not much. Nothing else needs drained.

Probably not the environmentally correct thing to do when I lose those two tablespoons of spillage but I'm a country redneck and so far my grass isn't glowing or anything from it.
 

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Maybe I missed a step when doing mine, but I've never taken any hoses loose to do a valve adjustment. That rear cover is a tight fit, but it will come out and go back in .
 

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Just did the valve adjustment, some tips from my personal experience, try to take the covers off without taking the coolant tubes off the heads. The little amount lost amounted to more than a cup of coolant that created a mess everywhere. Adjustment was done at 13,300 and every valve were tight and needed a thinner shim. The main problem with the kit was it only included 3 of each. On my intake valves, all the shims needed to be changed to 2.40mm from 2.48mm. with only three being available two valves were changed to 2.35mm hopefully being this loose will not cause to much problems. Another thing, the pdf file states to just use our finger to slide off the spark plug tube, I had a hard time and actually had to use a hammer and screwdriver to loosen the tube. The rear cover, came out either side for me. It was my first time and took me 6 hours. Things did not so simply as described by the pdf file. I would probably drain my coolant the next time I perform this.
 
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