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Would this feeler gauge be accurate enough for the job ?

http://www.vehicletools.co.uk/laser-feeler-gauge-afmm-2483-3091-112514
No, that one only goes down to .20mm. You need down to .10 for the intake and up to .30 for the exhaust. I just bought these from Sears:

https://sears.rsys4.net/servlet/cc6?kLHjkQWSTYQqAVIHgKjLOkxIllLJoQhjnVaVATVy60Gv2Xb9VRRDWRCRTRRRyV2fb9XV0bWQ2f41SQBADQoUgzfkUjkQSSYAUDTRVXLX

It is hard to find an offset set with the right size ranges. These have it though.
 

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Ok I have my shim kit. Question the caliper, I'm assuming it is only used to measure the old shim so you'll know where to start when replacing with a new shim. Is it absolutely necessary to have one or can I guess at it fairly easily? Maybe I can get one on the tool loan at the Zone.

Torque wrench, I seen somewhere that someone mentioned avoiding conversion charts by getting one that reads in metric, centimeter ft lbs I assume. Does the Zone have them on the loan a tool program I wonder?

Hopefully I'll get it sorted out and get rid of the pollution crap at the same time in just a few hours.
 

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Ok I have my shim kit. Question the caliper, I'm assuming it is only used to measure the old shim so you'll know where to start when replacing with a new shim. Is it absolutely necessary to have one or can I guess at it fairly easily? Maybe I can get one on the tool loan at the Zone.

Torque wrench, I seen somewhere that someone mentioned avoiding conversion charts by getting one that reads in metric, centimeter ft lbs I assume. Does the Zone have them on the loan a tool program I wonder?

Hopefully I'll get it sorted out and get rid of the pollution crap at the same time in just a few hours.
Calipers are not an absolute necessity as you mentioned it's just to measure the old shim, but it takes a little more trial and error to put different shims in and remeasure. I personally bought digital calipers for around $30.00. Thing is now that I have them they really do come in handy for other things, needed to know my frame diameter for some thing a while back got both mm and sae in a push of a button. I just pulled my EPA stuff off Fri BTW
 

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Ok I have my shim kit. Question the caliper, I'm assuming it is only used to measure the old shim so you'll know where to start when replacing with a new shim. Is it absolutely necessary to have one or can I guess at it fairly easily? Maybe I can get one on the tool loan at the Zone.

Torque wrench, I seen somewhere that someone mentioned avoiding conversion charts by getting one that reads in metric, centimeter ft lbs I assume. Does the Zone have them on the loan a tool program I wonder?

Hopefully I'll get it sorted out and get rid of the pollution crap at the same time in just a few hours.
You should be able to pick up whatever you need at the Harbor Freight in Birmingham. To properly work on bikes you will need more than one torque wrench. Most torque charts are in two or three different standards so not too much need for conversions. A good 3/8" wrench will go from 30 to 250 inch pounds, perfect for smaller items like spark plugs and drain plugs. A 1/2" drive torque wrench is needed for things like axle nuts. I have a torque screwdriver that only goes from 2 to 36 inch pounds. It doesn't get used much, but it was just the thing for replacing my fuel petcock on the 800 which called for 22 inch pounds of torque. (That's less than two foot pounds!)
A digital caliper can be purchased at Harbor Freight very cheaply, and it is one of the items they almost always have on sale.
 

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I just pulled my EPA stuff off Fri BTW
I removed the EPA stuff from my wife's 800 when I did the new petcock and carburetor work last week. I didn't notice any difference in the heat output; the bike still runs really hot! Have you seen any changes?
 

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I removed the EPA stuff from my wife's 800 when I did the new petcock and carburetor work last week. I didn't notice any difference in the heat output; the bike still runs really hot! Have you seen any changes?
I think I can tell a little difference , it's so hot and humid here right now it's hard to tell much. I haven't spent much time in town since I did it either, thats when I get cooked. One of those rare times it would be nice to have one of these to really see if there's a difference.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-62-Mini-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1341164542&sr=8-4&keywords=infrared+heat+gun[/ame]
 

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Well I went out riding last night a while in town , if it's running cooler my body hasn't noticed much difference.
 

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I think I can tell a little difference , it's so hot and humid here right now it's hard to tell much. I haven't spent much time in town since I did it either, thats when I get cooked. One of those rare times it would be nice to have one of these to really see if there's a difference.

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-62-Mini-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1341164542&sr=8-4&keywords=infrared+heat+gun
I've got one of those thermometers too, just can't find it after a move...:(
 
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I bought an inferred temperature gun for 45 bucks. It will tell you exactly what it's running. Except you don't have a comparison to check against.

Goobe
 

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Did mine saturday. Got feelers guage at O'Rileys, the one in .001 incruments. Just held the stock shim up next to one that was about the same from the kit, trial and error. Took about hr and a 1/2. Left front intake felt good as it was, snug at .006, loose at .004 so didnt change it.
 

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I bought an inferred temperature gun for 45 bucks. It will tell you exactly what it's running. Except you don't have a comparison to check against.

Goobe
Yeah I do! My wife and I ride a lot together, her on the 800 and me on the 900. Same road, same speeds, so comparison would be easy. Now where did I put that stupid thermometer.....?
 

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These vn800's are great bikes and leave so many memories to there owners or ex-owners. :p

The vn800 bug is calling you again Mambo so go out and save another one of these great scoots before they become harder to find..!!
 

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I just searched up this post as my 1999 Vulcan 800 (about 10,800 miles on the bike) has a tap going and I have been trying to figure out if it is the heat shield on my Vance and Hynes pipes or if it was the valves. I need to find the time but these directions and info make it sound like a project I can do.

I just wanted to say THANK YOU for sharing this years ago! It is very much so appreciated!!!
 

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...I've learned that if you trust someone else to take the time, and to care, that valves are set up and adjusted well, that person better be an immediate blood relative...
Dave is DEAD ON RIGHT!

If you even dream that some tech will take ALL the time & care to double-check everything to make certain these valve shim clearances are set as close to perfect as they can be, you need to wake up.

The better this job is done, the better it will run and the longer it will stay within spec.

Until Dave shared his tips on this process with me prior to the first time I attmepted it 20,000 miles ago, I was not confident that I had the skills to do it myself. After some minor trial & error (my stupidity, not Dave's information), everything was great and some bothersome engine noises disappeared forever.

I follow his process, to the letter, each time I re-do the job and this bike continues to run much better (at 42,000 miles) than when I got it (with less than 7,000 miles). Anyone who can DO & TEACH something really knows it.
 

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Hello,

I'm on the process to change the shims to my wife's VN800A, from 1995.

I would have few questions, please :

1. In my Service Manual it's written IN 0,10-0,15 and EXT 0,20-0,25. I have read sometimes different values, spacialy for the EXT (exhausts), like 0,25-0,30. Why this differences, because should be the same engine ?

2. I do not understand the manual table for chosing the correct shim thicknes and the examples there (page 4-18 for intake and 4-19 for exhausts) :
In the example for exhausts, please see the attach : if I remove the old shim, total distance between head of valve and rocker arm is 2,55 + 0,50 = 3,05. In the example it's says to put a new shim, 2,75 thick. Out of a simple calculation, 3,05 - 2.75 = 0.3 mm clearance. Which is out of spec (spec is 0.2 - 0.25).
I don't get it...
 

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I have been using the EXT 0.25-0.30 setting on mine. I understand they changed the setting to 0.20-0.25 later on. As for the thickness you'll need, if your mesurement is .10 too tight, get a shim that much thinner than what is in there now. Measure each vlave, they most likely wont all bee the same. If you buy a kit, you can simply try thicker or thinner shims till you get the reading you need. Valve tend to get tighter as they wear, so should need thinner shim than what is in it now.
 
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