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Discussion Starter #22
Its down to oils, still doing so more research on the site, etc....I am sure I cant do wrong either way.

Castrol Power 1 full syn 10$ or Castrol Aceveto Part synethtic 6.5$

I like the full syn vs part , b/c I don thave to change as soon (5k miles i hope).And better vs TX heat than part synethic, so leaning there. What do you think guys?

btw, kawasaki dealer wantd 13$ qt. for their full synthetic.
 

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That link I gave you to Amazon has 6 quarts to a case and $42.00 a case. That's just over $7.00 a quart. That's a great price for a full synthetic oil.
 

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Sixth Gear, sometimes, if you catch it at the right time, you can get the oil lower than that at Amazon. I bought a 6 pack of Qt sized Castrol Power 1 4T 10w50 for 27.00 last year at about this time. That's $4.50 a quart. I use 4 Qts each year when I change the oil, and save the rest until the following year.
 

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What is NOT being understood here is that ANY oil listed as synthetic can be of one or more of three DIFFERENT types of synthetic oil. When a synthetic oil sells for 6-7 bucks a quart it is a good chance it is NOT a true synthetic oil as it starts out as a petroleum oil that is HIGHLY refined in a process called HYDRO-CRACKING, and can be legally called synthetic, and is called a Group 3 oil. Group 4 and 5 oils are TRUE synthetics that have no petroleum in their formula.

Semi or "part synthetic" will have some percentage of petroleum oil, but WHAT is the synthetic portion? Cheap Group 3 or a higher grade Group 4 or 5? Maxima semi syn oil is listed on the package as containing 50% Ester oil, the esters being in the Group 5 and commonly known to have the best overall characteristics.

The OP is seriously over complicating this issue. VERY FEW oil companies list what Group their oils are in, and what additives are in the oil. Asking so many questions on what oil is better without probably ANYONE having taken the time to have the used oil analyzed to determine how good it REALLY is after it has been in service is never gonna get any definitive answers.

These are Kawi's recommended specs for oil right outa the service manual...

API service rating SE,SF,SG,SH,SJ. These are old service ratings. Kawi also specifies JASO MA which was the first wet clutch compatible spec. MA1 and MA2 have higher specs for wet clutch operation and CAN be used where only MA is recommended. Finally 10-40 is the recommended oil viscosity.

The OP's quest was to perform an oil change to FULL synthetic, then BUY oil labeled as full synthetic in that $5-$7 range and report back how the engine/shifting/ clutch reacts to the oil.

As a 43+ professional M/C technician I have learned more than most anyone about oils, anyone can feel free to call my shop 954-455-9665 for more info!

RACNRAY
 

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Spot on Racnray
If I'm not mistaken the Castrol Power One 4T motorcycle oil is group three.
I seriously doubt anyone here is going to see a difference in group three and a group 4 oil in their bike.
So why pay double the price for a group 4 oil ?

I do believe the one or two dollar difference between dino and synthetic is worth it because of the extended change interval.

Too many people get hung up on the difference between group 3 and group 4 oils.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
i went with POWER 1 full syn, 10w40, aftr hearing back from yall, didn't wana worry abot the heat with part syn. almost 4$ more a qt. so ill let u know how it shifts aftr i put it in! Thanks yall.....
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I will,, thanks raynac! I appreciate it, did have some more ques. went with the more exp. syn oil like u said! ;o)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Now I heard there is a pick up oil screen, that needs to be pulled out and cleaned during oil changes, it filters more crap before getting to the oil pump, is it necessary for v900s? any how to info and HOW OFTEN u must do it? ......wonder if its every other oil change...etc....Thanks yall!
 

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Liondog, I get the impression that the oil screen should be pulled out and cleaned at least once. Then infrequently after that. I read that some look at it every oil change, but don't see anything to clean off. That screen has a large surface area, and is very unlikely to EVER get clogged up. I would look at it once, if you haven't yet. Then infrequently afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
thanks bud, that makes sense.......do you know how to , link? should i b worried with 1 dealer oil change so far , under 5k mile son it?
 

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do you know how to , link?

post number 2
 

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Thanks guys, I got more input. I am left with two oils to choose from, want to know which u think is best?

6.5$ qt. "Part Synthetic"-CASTROL ACTEVO , 10w40 .......OR

7.5$ QT. Valvoline "All synthetic" 10w40

Both exceed JA2...etc. standards, BUT I am turned off by the PART SYNETHETIC Castrol, but actevo brand
boasts about special bonding oil engineering..........but confused, should I go with synethetic FULL w Valvoline....great price? even Kawasaki syn OIL is 12$ a qt.

2ndly, even if i went with either oil, wat would you think the next oil change should be for either 2 above?

Let me know what you think please? !!! Thanks Yall

PS...i went with fram ultra guard filter, 5$
I have used Actevo 10-40 on all my bikes but I do maintain the schedule of changing oil always
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks guys! Interesting dilema for yall.

Hey I am in the process of doing the oil change, almost complete. But wanted to check the oil screen.
Question theirs the chassis bar right infront of the bar, 2 inches, how is that long screen and the big bolt have enough clearance to come out with the spring and parts?

I even leaned it so it is straight up and not the kickstand (leaning on the same side)? I seen videos where there is way more clearance to sneak it out, but i cant see that on my end, any suggestions? If not , I am just gna fill her up with oil and forget it for now........... thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
thanks jbiggers, what abot the spring? hard to bend that, ? so no way to sway the bike one way, so i get more clearance? nitemare
 

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Discussion Starter #38
also , i dont have 'flash' solvent, will simple green or a degreaser work? or even mild soap and water?
 

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Many here have done it, but I have not. My understanding is the only thing you have to bend is the screen itself. Reuse the o-ring. Maybe you just compress the spring. Many here have said it is fairly easy once you know what to do. I would think any petroleum based solvent would work, like gasoline for example.
 

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The instructions posted by Du-Ron specifically state to NOT use gasoline or other low flash point solvents. I suspect that gas would be OK providing you let it dry completely. A low odor mineral spirits would probably be better and is cheap. High flash mineral spirits would be even better, if you can find it.
 
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