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1946-2014
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630 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If there is anyone who has had to change their tail light bulb on their vulcan you will understand why I am about to go severly beat some dips%i$ engineer about the head and shoulders until his eyeballs bleed.

Ok, my tail light bulb burned out. Gonna change it this morning. There are three 10mm nuts to take off the bezel and three socket head set screws to remove the cover for the turn signal wiring(just to get to the third nut on the tail light bezel)
If you are large like me you CAN NOT get you arm between the rear tire and the fender to remove the nuts and screws. So, I jack the bike up to let the rear tire down a bit and then can just barely get my hand and arm in to remove said nuts and screws. Only one hand, mind you, and there is precious little room in that miniature space. Finally get the dang thing loose and am able to get the bezel off the fender to get to the bulb. Now I gotta go to NAPA for a new bulb. Can you buy just one? Heck no, you gotta but two of the blamed things.
Brought both my new bulbs home and put one in the socket. Checked it for operation before I reinstalled the dastardly bezel, nuts and screws. thankfully it all worked and after about twenty more minutes wrestling with wrenches, nuts that keep dropping to the floor and running to the other side of the garage and three socket head set screws that now decide they will not re thread into the holes from whence they came, I fina'y get my apeoirhguh oawuihoetjm [iweucy icouhw tail light working again.

There is an engineer somewhere that is going to catch all manner of trouble when I find him/her/it.

Nothng should be that difficult.
 

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Love it..... I thought maybe it was only me and this darn bike and how its put together.
I'll tell you..... I love it. The simplest thing on this bike has huge gains for my ego once I finish a task.

By they way your not the only one that has bolts that like to scoot to the ground and take a little mini-vacation
on the other side of the garage. Mine like going there often as well.
Got to be the hottie washers that are there from other tasks that attract them.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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5,618 Posts
not being large has its advantages and sometimes not

been there, done that. I find plenty room to work in most confined spaces. bet then again, am not double, er triple x plus.

did change that whole entire light assembly for a LED unit w/integrated turn sigs. later I added back the xmas tree to give more rear end visibility.. for the texters, et al.

Several short cuts to under fender work; a few bolts on each side and two under the seat will put that fender upside down on your work bench. you can do lots of mods there and never risk spilling your beer. also makes for rear wheel service more eazy.

Also, here is a secret formula for reigning in those scampy little fasteners n tools that like to take leave of the work area and hide in deep crevaces of your work shop... most likely they are making thier escape from your big furry hands and all the cussing vibrations eminating from your vicinity... ok, here is the secret; put a large towel or rug under your work area and dont work above a hard surfaces where those fasteners can get rebound and gain traction. A soft towel will stop them on impact. they be doomed to refitment. but seeing yor no longer cussing up a storm they may quit shaking so hard... is likely where they get thier energy to flee your presence in the first place.
 

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Good tips Poncho......
and never work in a poorly lit garage in the evening.
You'll find yourself not sleeping well that night thinking about the morning
and the hunt for that elusive nut or bolt.
Don't ask me how I know that ;)
*
*
 

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I have taken the tail lamp assembly off. Bike is new, but I needed to for some wiring of a rear safety accessory light (LED). I had no problems.

Used a "wobbly" on a long extension, quarter inch drive. Yes, it is a little tricky to get the nuts back on and would be nice to use your fingers, but you can get them on using the wobbly or get a set of wobbly sockets (I have those too, they work great). For hard to get at allen head bolts, you use a ball head allen wrench so it can be used at an angle.
 

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I just went thru the same pains as you except I have a trailer hitch mounted to the inside of my fender and Im running a car tire so space is even tighter. I actualy thought it may have been easier to pull the rear wheel but after about 2 hours and many choice words the job was done.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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take the dang fender off in less than 5 minutes

I actualy thought it may have been easier to pull the rear wheel but after about 2 hours and many choice words the job was done.
ratman, why is everybody so quik to pull off the rear wheel? some's even go so far as to lift the skoot a mile in the air, not to mention they remove the exhaust system to get more work room.? never can figur that one out. seems like hard work, not smart work.

when any maintenance is required back of the seat, I just pop the fender off with 6..8 bolts. Gives me plenty of access to whatever needs doin. including removing the rear wheel..as I dont have to lift the bike a mile in the air. it just rolls right out the back. just saying; work smart, not hard. out, ponch
 

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ratman, why is everybody so quik to pull off the rear wheel? some's even go so far as to lift the skoot a mile in the air, not to mention they remove the exhaust system to get more work room.? never can figur that one out. seems like hard work, not smart work.

when any maintenance is required back of the seat, I just pop the fender off with 6..8 bolts. Gives me plenty of access to whatever needs doin. including removing the rear wheel..as I dont have to lift the bike a mile in the air. it just rolls right out the back. just saying; work smart, not hard. out, ponch
My biggest fear would be scratching the paint but in my case it would mean also pulling the trailer hitch which would be a pain as well.
Which ct did you put on your bike and how do you like it?
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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My biggest fear would be scratching the paint but in my case it would mean also pulling the trailer hitch which would be a pain as well. Which ct did you put on your bike and how do you like it?
rat'rs, paint scratch? are you working in a cave? use some shop towels(scammed from the bathroom) to cover your work.

I take it your trailer hitch bolts up to the frame under the fender? Those are the same bolts that hold your fender in place. 'cept 2 more under the driver seat. would think that the trailer hitch n fender would all come off as one subassembly... it you are not hardwired into the bikes main harness.? yikes!

ct is a mich hydroedge. it works good. cuts corners hard, will drag boards. takes a little more steering at slow speeds, but does so just fine. wears like tank. 7k miles, rubber still looks new, no wear. is rated at 90k for cars. if'n I get 30k will be pleased = 3x longer than mc's.
 

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I have my shock set to the max, so maybe that is why (with it jacked up) I
have no problem. 3xl gloves here, big hands. My first Clear Alternatives
taillight died out of warranty. I liked it so much, I just installed the second
one. I hope I get at least two years out of this one.

Oh, and this second one (Clear ALternatives) has a few spots where the
LEDs aren't lit. Ain't worth sending back though. Too many lit spots to lose
sleep over.



Herb
 
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