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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, sorry if this topic has been beat to death, but I couldn't find any definitive answers via the search....
I have a 2000 Classic 1500 with 13000 miles and the clutch is gone...

I've ordered a new one and have been watching youtube videos..

It's seems pretty straight forward, but I'm concerned about torquing it correctly...

I'd like to do it myself, more satisfying that way.

Thoughts? Am I making too big of a deal of it?

thanks guys
 

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.... I took my 2004 1500 in for a master cylinder rebuild and fluid flush, routine maintenance right, and when I got it out, the clutch had ridiculous slippage that they didn't 'notice'. well after 2 months back in the shop and replacing the master cylinder again, and also the slave cylinder, and not being able to figure it out, the tech took the clutch handle off again and found a tiny ball bearing was packed in grease in between the clutch piston and the master cylinder. One of the techs must have picked up a loose ball bearing in his grease can and got it wedged in the master cylinder. Yes that 1/8 inch ball bearing spaced it enough to mess with the clutch grabbing correctly.

My 2004 has 30,000 miles. Your 2000 seems to have too low mileage for a new clutch. Could be something similar to what my shop did wrong.

Keep us posted
 

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Does the clutch seem ok when engine is cold, but starts to slip as engine warms?
This is just my curiosity here but, what would those symptoms be indicative of?
 

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Easyrider,
I don't think the clutch job is difficult. It's been several years since I was into mine, but I remember only one tricky thing that was important. There were three spacers that had a slight curve to them and the orientation was critical. They had an orientation like (() or ))(. I was using a Clymer manual and it was pretty clear on how that went, but it is important got get that right or your clutch will slip when you're done and you'll have to go back in and fix it.
 

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This is just my curiosity here but, what would those symptoms be indicative of?
A plugged master cylinder relief port.
As the fluid heats up and expands due to engine heat, if it cannot return to master cylinder reservoir, it will start to release clutch instead.
When the fluid cools, clutch will "usually" operate as normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I think the clutch slips pretty good pretty quickly. The bike hasn't performed anything like a 1500cc bike should in months, honestly. 13000 miles, this bike has done some sitting....I probably didn't do it any favors, moved to the super hilly/curvy country right after getting it, may have been a little hard on it. The bike cooled for almost 2 hours and 1st gear would barely engage and then I still had to push it up on the trailer. I'm hoping the new clutch gives me a new bike...buddy at work has the identical bike and it did just that for him....if so, putting apes on (hoping I can avoid new cables, but I haven't researched that yet) thanks guys
 

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Lots of sitting = plugged relief port.

I would check that first. 13,000 miles is very low for actual clutch issues. (plates, spring or otherwise)

Has the oil been changed? If so, what did you fill with?

Do not want you to tear down the clutch only for the problem to still be there.

Post back with any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep....I wasn't the one who did the oil change though, but I trust it was/hope it was done correctly. Looks like all of my parts will be in within a day or 2...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
While at Autozone on an unrelated mission I learned that one of the employees works on bikes...$75....couldn't pass that up. I pick the bike up tonight. I suppose the next mission is figuring our what is the maximum size apes i can go with without changing cables....thanks guys


update: she runs like new, has power it has never had since I owned her, very pleased
 
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