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Discussion Starter #1
As a 2nd owner of a "new" 04 2000 I find the suspension a little on the soft side and I want to adjust the shock of which there is no spanner wrench that came with the bike so my question to the more experienced owners what can I use to adjust the shock without having to buy a spanner wrench and also is there any tricks that I can use to jack up the rear wheel without the bike falling over? Thanks
 

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A channel lock pliers will work on some shock adjusters. I haven't tried it on the V2K.

Harbor freight sells a bike lift for $99 (they're usually on sale for less).
 

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Harbor freight sells a bike lift for $99 (they're usually on sale for less).
If you have the room (home garage, etc) I highly suggest picking up a lift.

Go to Barn & Nobel (or any bookstore) and look thru the motorcycle magazines. Harbor Fright will have a full page coupon advertisement thingy in almost every magazine.

I bought the Harbor Freight lift 2 years ago for $59. It cost (much) more than that just to fill my V8 truck with gas every week.

It was one of the better investments I did.

 

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One of the lifts like Smedlin shows in his pic is probably the best and cheapest route to go. I use a floor lift and a 2x to lift mine but you have to take it slow and block up each side as you go up because you are trying to balance that beast as you lift. Not fun or safe. But I am cheap and I just have not broke down and got one yet.

As for the shock. I used a cheap one I got from Dennis Kirk. It connects to a 3/8 drive ratchet and you can turn it with it. Or the old hammer and flat head screwdriver will do the trick.

 

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Flat head screwdriver and hammer or mallet will turn the shock but as cheap as I am I'd even pick up a lift.


What am I saying? I've still got my co-workers lift from the last time I borrowed it. I did try to return it but he told me just to keep it until he needed it.
 

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Oh also the specs are listed in the service manual for how much you can adjust your spring pre load. I can't remember them right off hand but I did not take mine up to the max, but I am close. I have it in a range that I can fiddle around with the dampener to adjust for luggage or passenger.
 

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I started trying to adjust mine with a hammer and screew driver, did not like what i was seeing so i went online. Amazon 17 bucks shipped i figured $20 alot better than replaceing that nut from beating the hell out of it.

Check Clist i see lifts on there all the time around me. If you have ever had a bike fall on you, you would not mess around with alternative methods. Even with a lift i strap that bad boy down.
 

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as another add. spray that bad boy down the pb blaster or similar product and let it sit a while before you do. Those suckers can be tight.
 

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Thanks for the replies everyone I will definitely look into a jack for sure.
All very good advice, and not much more to add. PBBlaster, 3in1 oil or similar on th nut, I then used a LARGE pair of channel lock pliers on mine. Turned the preload as far as I could and set the shock to full firm. Have not messed with it since.

For the read wheel; buddy has a lift, I use it for major stuff. For quick work, I have a 6-ton floor jack from HF. I have to stand the beast up a little to get it under the low frame rail, then a 1x4 on the jack under the other frame rail. This stands the bike up straight, and gets one or the other wheel about an inch off the ground. I do this for accessory adjustment, tuning, fiddling, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks HawkWolf I just got it Saturday and feels just a bit too soft for my liking.
 

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I felt the same. Unfortunately, I feel like it could use more damping. It still bounces a bit too much. It is TONS better set full firm.

In the front, I pumped out the 5w oil with an oil extractor, and replaced with 15w. That is much better as well. Eventually, I will get a new shock and progressive front springs.
 

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with the Roadstar, I leave on side stand & use car jack to raise the rear wheel high enough to slip out from under the exhaust, was much easier than from underneath with a bike lift.
Have not tried it on the Nomad yet, but with care, it is worth a try
 

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Advice on the harbour freight lifts. Some will drop fast if you try to let it down slow, push the release all at once and it drops slower. A friend has one, scared the h#ll out of me the 1st time I used it. Thouht I was going to drop the bike off the jack.


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Advice on the harbour freight lifts. Some will drop fast if you try to let it down slow, push the release all at once and it drops slower. A friend has one, scared the h#ll out of me the 1st time I used it. Thouht I was going to drop the bike off the jack.


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That's so true. They really designed the release mechanism ass-backwards! You've got to stomp on it!
 

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Advice on the harbour freight lifts. Some will drop fast if you try to let it down slow, push the release all at once and it drops slower. A friend has one, scared the h#ll out of me the 1st time I used it. Thouht I was going to drop the bike off the jack.


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that's true.. and so odd.

Push drop lever slowly (half way) and it drops fast.

Push drop level all the way down, and it's a more controlled drop.

but.. you will wanna hold on to that bike firm as your lowering it.

I always lift it from the non-pipe side. Don't want anything banging the pipes. The kickstand is usually down the entire time it's up on the lift (the lift will actually be in the way if you try to move the kickstand, so you have to plan ahead if you want it that way).

anyways, so when I lower it down, I'm standing next to the bike, left hand on handle bar, right hand stretch across the bike and gripping the frame. Kind of pressing the bike between my thigh and my hand.

As I drop it, I'm pulling it somewhat toward me, and making sure it leaning towards the kickstand.

I learned pretty quick to do that. I'm a big guy; 6'3 250lbs. But the bike is a heavy mother when your dropping it and it starts to lean away from the kickstand.
 
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