Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an '09 Voyager that makes a horrible sound when shifting from 1st to 2nd, a little less from 2nd to 3rd and so on.. from 5th to 6th, you hardly hear it at all... but, that first shift... wow... kinda reminds you of the way the old Harley's used to sound... a resounding CLUNK that would make you think the whole tranny fell OUT of the thing !!! Anyone else have this problem ?

Also, as soon as I turn on the key, I hear a humming sound from the motor, even before I start it up. I would assume this is the fuel pump or something. When I hit the kill switch before I get off the bike, I can still hear the pump humming. Is this normal ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
I have an '11 Nomad and it upshifts the same way, the lower the gear the bigger the clunk especially first to second. Fourth to fifth and fifth to sixth are barely audible. Although I seem to get less of a clunk in the lower gears if I wind it out a bit more. Also, the clunk is reduced for a bit after oil changes. My next change I'm going synthetic.

The noises you hear when you turn the key on or turn the bike off are normal. The 1700's have electronic throttle controls and the noise is from some throttle position sensors cycling to find home. If you ever start it before the cycle completes itself the bike won't run right. If that happens, just shut it down completely and then turn it back on. But be sure to let it finish the cycle before starting up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
135 Posts
I have an '11 Nomad and it upshifts the same way, the lower the gear the bigger the clunk especially first to second. Fourth to fifth and fifth to sixth are barely audible. Although I seem to get less of a clunk in the lower gears if I wind it out a bit more. Also, the clunk is reduced for a bit after oil changes. My next change I'm going synthetic.
+1. I have an '11 and even though synthetic has reduced it somewhat, it still clunks...just the characteristic of our bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
very typical...mine is the same...trans will quiet some with miles....full synthetic helps too...I run mobil 1 10w40 m/c oil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
I used Amsoil in my 900C and was very pleased with how smooth the transmission shifted and how quiet the engine ran. I never had the knocks and pings others complained about with the 900. And the oil never seemd to get too dark or dirty between changes (less ash in the oil is my understanding). And yes, I do realize that the 1700 is almost double the displacement, torque and HP. Couple that with moving a bike that's 200 plus pounds more and there's bound to be more noise. It was just a little disconcerting at first because the 900 didn't come close to making that big CLUNK from 1st to 2nd. I do like the ride of the 1700. It's smooth and comfortable while still being quite responsive and maneuverable even at parking lot speeds. I hardly can notice the difference when my wife is onboard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
I have an '09 Voyager that makes a horrible sound when shifting from 1st to 2nd, a little less from 2nd to 3rd and so on.. from 5th to 6th, you hardly hear it at all... but, that first shift... wow... kinda reminds you of the way the old Harley's used to sound... a resounding CLUNK that would make you think the whole tranny fell OUT of the thing !!! Anyone else have this problem ?

Also, as soon as I turn on the key, I hear a humming sound from the motor, even before I start it up. I would assume this is the fuel pump or something. When I hit the kill switch before I get off the bike, I can still hear the pump humming. Is this normal ?
Yep...nature of the beast. :cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,115 Posts
The good thing is we didnt have to pay a $5000 premium to get the same clunk as other bikes offer.
Yeah too funny. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Good synthetic oil will make a difference.
Beware, the cheap stuff won't...
Last oil change (about 1500 miles ago), I used Mobil One 20W-50 (full synthetic, and, at $12/quart, not really cheap) LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The good thing is we didnt have to pay a $5000 premium to get the same clunk as other bikes offer.
Haha.... well, thank God for THAT, at least !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Try loading up before u shift ...

Put your foot under the lever, apply light pressure, pull the clutch in. Before you've moved the lever a fraction of an inch, the lever will smoothly move up and shift to the next gear, release the clutch. Same thing going down in gears.

it reduces the clunking , I did this by chance , it shifted so smooth I couldn't beleve how a loud trany can be so quite ? also when I first start the bike I let it warm up for good 3 minutes then I hold and release the cluch for 3 or 4 times then I shift to 1st ? I swear no sound , the 1700 transmition needs special treatment :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
The clunk is not an accepted sound from the transmission, it is the sound of not knowing how to shift. Sorry for all the hurt feelings, but the shift must be done while the rotational speed of the gears are in their own sync. The clunk is the hard impact of the teeth and dogs slapping into mesh.
As FYSI said, you have to think about the shift a little and prepare for it. that is done by loading the shifter with a light pressure moments before the actual shift. It will quietly and smoothly click into gear and be ready for having been went already !
The down shift when done correctly can be a big help when making a stop too. Here we again apply light load, then, blip clutch / throttle / shifter / clutch and it will drop gear and help in stopping. Plus it sounds off cool as hell if you have nice resounding pipes. The key is bringing rpm's up to the same speed as would be an up shift point.
A warmed up engine should not care what oil it has in it for shifting. It is much the same as double clutching with the OLD style non synchro gear boxes of days long ago.
When I teach a newbie the ins and outs of a MC, I always start off with shifting, stopping, with down shifting & lock to lock maneuvering till they can do a reasonable clover leaf in a parking lot. The next lesson was always the Waking up of observation.
As an exercise, next time your riding in a group, LISTEN ! Who clunks and who down shifts. Also, watch the pkng lots to see who drags their boots ! and who confidently keeps boots on pegs ! Then, bring it up for discussion and listen to the ones that really know. It will not only enlighten you but those who are afraid to ask or worse yet, think they know it all and clunk !
Now its time to learn how to shift your C of G for real control. Then, >>>>>>>>> OOPS I feel I just wore out my welcome !
Sorry ! now I think I'll go out for a ride all by myself ! Boo Hoo ! hehehehhahahaha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
The clunk is not an accepted sound from the transmission, it is the sound of not knowing how to shift. Sorry for all the hurt feelings, but the shift must be done while the rotational speed of the gears are in their own sync. The clunk is the hard impact of the teeth and dogs slapping into mesh.
As FYSI said, you have to think about the shift a little and prepare for it. that is done by loading the shifter with a light pressure moments before the actual shift. It will quietly and smoothly click into gear and be ready for having been went already !
The down shift when done correctly can be a big help when making a stop too. Here we again apply light load, then, blip clutch / throttle / shifter / clutch and it will drop gear and help in stopping. Plus it sounds off cool as hell if you have nice resounding pipes. The key is bringing rpm's up to the same speed as would be an up shift point.
A warmed up engine should not care what oil it has in it for shifting. It is much the same as double clutching with the OLD style non synchro gear boxes of days long ago.
When I teach a newbie the ins and outs of a MC, I always start off with shifting, stopping, with down shifting & lock to lock maneuvering till they can do a reasonable clover leaf in a parking lot. The next lesson was always the Waking up of observation.
As an exercise, next time your riding in a group, LISTEN ! Who clunks and who down shifts. Also, watch the pkng lots to see who drags their boots ! and who confidently keeps boots on pegs ! Then, bring it up for discussion and listen to the ones that really know. It will not only enlighten you but those who are afraid to ask or worse yet, think they know it all and clunk !
Now its time to learn how to shift your C of G for real control. Then, >>>>>>>>> OOPS I feel I just wore out my welcome !
Sorry ! now I think I'll go out for a ride all by myself ! Boo Hoo ! hehehehhahahaha
"but the shift must be done while the rotational speed of the gears are in their own sync. The clunk is the hard impact of the teeth and dogs slapping into mesh."

OK, can someone tell me why we get the clunk while sitting perfectly still shifting into first gear? :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
The "clunk" is a well documented feature of the bike. They changed the gear ratios of the 2011s on up to reduce the clunk, but it is not damaging. You can find an explanation of the hum on page 105 of the owner's manual. "After the ignition switch is turned off, the throttle valve opens and closes for about 5 seconds..."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Another one to try for that start up change to 1st.
Bike on.
Clutch in.
Roll the bike back a short distance. (Not do-able all the time).
Change into 1st.
...... SNICK ...... 9 times out of 10.
Why, don't have any idea, not a tech sort of guy.
VEE02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
"
OK, can someone tell me why we get the clunk while sitting perfectly still shifting into first gear? :confused:


When the clutch is pulled, the shafts are not running at the same speeds, The clunk is the non rotating output shaft being brought up to speed with a hit and the inertia of the clutch having to change to mesh gears. It is common because of the clutch wants to drag and keep turning. It can help to pull in clutch and rev a couple times or too rock bike to get oil in between the clutch disc's to help the speed transitions that takes place.
I'm not a word smith, but at least I know and understand what I mean, you know what I mean ?
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top