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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My setup was cobra tri-ovals and the fi2000 powerpro . The tri-ovals caused my bike to pop like crazy, so i plugged the hole and put washers behind the acorn nuts on the head pipes and then i put a throttle body gasket on, and she still poped like crazy , Then i went with the powerpro wich seemed to work for a week , Then it seemed to do nothing but make it run like crap , surging and sputtering at 60 mph , idle was all over the place. It just seems this bike dont like anything i do . So i just took it all off and went to stock. For a week now ive been riding and loving it, Rocking away with my infinity speakers . Stress free. Its just a big waste of money.. now in my garage i have the tri-ovals, fi2000r tri pod , fi2000 powere pro, im not saying im going to stay stock , I think im gonna go a diffrent way. but i cant just keep spending alot of money on something i end up not happy with. i am going to get rays throttle mode. If anyone wants them lets make a deal,
 

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I did the same thing. I had the tri-ovals, powerpro, and thunder air kit. I lost around 30 miles + per tank, it was too loud, popped all the time, and ran so rich that black soot came out of ever screw or crack on the tri-ovals. I'm back to stock now and it is stress free riding. I keep thinking I should do something, but the bike is performing much better now.
 

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Sad to hear. These 1700's really do respond well to intake/exhaust/tuning mods, and done properly will enhance the riding experience.

My Vaq has the Big 3, done my way of course. I could never think bout goin back to stock as the power is so much greater and my gas mileage has improved quite a bit.

Other 1700 owners have had similar positive results so finding the right combination, especially in the fine tuning of all the components is so very important.

RACNRAY
 

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I am going to try to use steel wool packing in my tri-ovals to reduce the sound a bit and I am going to put the air kit back on, but I am not using a power pro. My mechanic told me as log as your exhaust has some baffles and not just a straight pipe, you won't need a fuel manager like the power pro or other.
 

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I am going to try to use steel wool packing in my tri-ovals to reduce the sound a bit and I am going to put the air kit back on, but I am not using a power pro. My mechanic told me as log as your exhaust has some baffles and not just a straight pipe, you won't need a fuel manager like the power pro or other.
Here's a link to a thread I started a while back pertaining to baffle wraps. Might work for you too? I have the big 3, all cobra products tho. No popping, just a nice rumble on decel. Make sure you are running 87 octane here in the states. Higher octane than that will result in unburned fuel in the exhaust which results in it getting burnt off there, hence the popping.

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88106&page=3
 

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I am going to try to use steel wool packing in my tri-ovals to reduce the sound a bit and I am going to put the air kit back on, but I am not using a power pro. My mechanic told me as log as your exhaust has some baffles and not just a straight pipe, you won't need a fuel manager like the power pro or other.
I have the same set up you have and love it. I don't know why your having a problem with it. I did lose about 4mpg, but to me it was worth it. I will tell you your mechanic is wrong and you can hurt your motor if you run a intake and exhaust with no fuel controller at all of any kind. These motors are very lean from the factory to pass EPA pollution control. If you research you will find the popping is in all of the 1700's. I found over time as the exhaust seasons itself it got quieter. Good luck with whatever you choose to do to your bike.
 

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Confused. My Kawasaki mechanic says the ECU will adjust (increase fuel) to meet the air kit and exhaust, but the forum says you need the fuel mod??? Calgon take me away!
The ECU can only adjust over a very limited range such as acting as a choke during warm up, but that is assuming everything is stock. It might help if it was a closed loop system with an 02 sensor, then it may actually provide the required fuel based on actual readings. Unfortunately, the North American ECU can only respond to a few inputs like intake air temperature and throttle position readings and then uses preprogrammed algorithms based on EPA data, not true performance data. Even a stock 1700 will be running lean most of the time.

You might be able to get away with adding pipes, but once you change the intake too, you will definitely need to add more fuel to compensate, or you will be running seriously lean. Only a good Aftermarket fuel manager can do that.
 

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Thanks Hammer that makes sense. Maybe 87 octain is the answer to my problems. A quick indication of the engine running too lean should be an increase in engine temp. So, I will try a few things and watch the temps.
 

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Wondering if you have the right power tune module. When I purchased mine, there was a module made for the classic, and one for the voyager. I know there is some differences between the classic and the voyager and vaq engine (even know they are the same engine). Forget if it was in the actually tune of the ECU or slight internal mechanical differences with the gearing. I never lost mpg's after I put on my power tune, actually gained .7 mph and another full 1.3 mpg when using lucas fuel treatment (and that was like instantly almost) upon riding after adding it.

Other things I could think of is the slip ons to the OEM head pipes. Those OEM head pipes are very questionable looking after removing the heat shields and removing the head pipes. I was actually shocked to see how they looked design wise (at least for the classic).

Have no complaints at all after installing cobra speedster pipes and Fi2000 power tune. Have the badass sound of what a V twin should sound like, and picked up close to 2 extra mpg's. Will be getting it back on the dyno very soon to see if I gained anything from intial dyno run when I had stock pipes, air filter and no tuner of any kind.
 

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How much do you want for your power pro? I might be interested in one soon.
 

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I do have the correct powerpro for the Voyager, verified. Based on today's discussion I am probably going to give it one more try. Let you know. Another factor is the cold weather we are having here in Michigan and that is probably taking a toll on mpg (thick air).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i'm going to give it another shot and see what happens..
 

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I do have the correct powerpro for the Voyager, verified. Based on today's discussion I am probably going to give it one more try. Let you know. Another factor is the cold weather we are having here in Michigan and that is probably taking a toll on mpg (thick air).
I will add that during the winter months in NC where I reside my Classic does consume more fuel (2-4mpg) less on average.
 

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I am going to try to use steel wool packing in my tri-ovals to reduce the sound a bit and I am going to put the air kit back on, but I am not using a power pro. My mechanic told me as log as your exhaust has some baffles and not just a straight pipe, you won't need a fuel manager like the power pro or other.
I put the Tri-Ovals, a PCV fuel manager and a K&N filter on my 2010 Vulcan Nomad about two years ago. The stock maps from Power Commander sucked, but once I had the fuel manager set up on a Dyno, it ran and sounded 100% better. I took it back to be adjusted once to see if they could help reduce the high decel pops. The pops are not totally gone, but were substantially reduced. If you want a copy of the map, email me at [email protected].

G. McDonald
Katy, TX
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
In all my bikes ive had i never had such a fikle one like this. What scared me was it almost stalled on the highway just like i was running out of gas, This weekend im going to install the powerpro again including the pipes and see what happens. if it does it again im just going to get a pcv and have it dynoed. i might order a thunder air kit , which one works best for my vaquero ?
 

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I have the big 3...D&D exhaust, Tornado air kit ans the PCV. The wife and I went on a 325 mile ride yesterday to Anamosa IA/J&P Cycle and I got 41 mpg running about 70-75 mph most of the time and the temp was 85 and I only got 1 maybe 2 pops out of it all day.

Reading all the guys with the Power Pro VS use guys with the PCV it seems that everyone with the Power Pro get crappy mpg mid 30's or less. Where the guys that run the PCV might lose a couple like I did or even gain mileage. I don't understand why guys would run a fuel module that all you can do is plug it in and hope it does what it says it does. When I see the bad gas mileage you guys are getting it makes me think how well does the Power Pro really work. I don't really care about mileage over performance but I am happy to know I can still avg 40+ mpg after doing the big 3.
 

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Sad to hear. These 1700's really do respond well to intake/exhaust/tuning mods, and done properly will enhance the riding experience.

My Vaq has the Big 3, done my way of course. I could never think bout goin back to stock as the power is so much greater and my gas mileage has improved quite a bit.

Other 1700 owners have had similar positive results so finding the right combination, especially in the fine tuning of all the components is so very important.

RACNRAY
I have Tri-Ovals and would love to get a Power Commander but my problem is I winter in Florida and summer in the mountains out west. I would have to have the bike tuned while in Florida and again while in the mountains correct? That would be 3 tune jobs a year, not only a pain in the butt but $ too!
 

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I have Tri-Ovals and would love to get a Power Commander but my problem is I winter in Florida and summer in the mountains out west. I would have to have the bike tuned while in Florida and again while in the mountains correct? That would be 3 tune jobs a year, not only a pain in the butt but $ too!
Doesn't the PCV have an optional 2-Position Map Switch? You would only need to get the bike mapped for both altitudes once, then switch back and forth depending on your geographic location. At least, I'm assuming that is how it works...should save you some money.

Or, you could go lower tech with the EJK/Bully and change settings on the fly.
 

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Vulcan Hammer is correct there are two map positions in the PCV, all it takes is a small switch to ground to change between maps, also when you get the PCV you get the software with it, have it tuned, down load the maps in your computer and change it your self, only takes 5 minutes, and most of that time is pluging it in, it is real simple.
 

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I have Tri-Ovals and would love to get a Power Commander but my problem is I winter in Florida and summer in the mountains out west. I would have to have the bike tuned while in Florida and again while in the mountains correct? That would be 3 tune jobs a year, not only a pain in the butt but $ too!
Fuel injected engines have the ability to somewhat compensate for prevailing conditions via the various sensors.

Coolant temp, intake air temperature and more importantly a manifold air pressure sensor aka map sensor or as Kawi calls it a intake pressure sensor.
Kawi has eliminated the barometric pressure sensor on the 1700's as found on most fi engines.

So if ur drivin in a low altitude/high barometric pressure scenario the map sensor will feed a voltage signal that the ECU will be able to operate the injectors as deemed by the ECU mapping.

Ride around at a higher altitude where the barometric pressure is lower due to the less dense air and you will also have lower intake pressure, the signal from that sensor will again cause the ECU to operate the injectors accordingly. The injectors will not deliver as much fuel to the engine.

So basically the ECU on FI engines can somewhat compensate for temp and
altitude changes, no need for different maps.

Unless you want it to run absolutely perfect at 2 different altitudes, and only those 2 altitudes. There are always the potential for huge altitude changes on a ride and the ECU will accommodate those changes.

RACNRAY
 
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