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Discussion Starter #1
In the ongoing saga of changing my rear turn signals, there's a new development. I installed some Kury bullet signals (LED) on the rear and a load adapter. Now, when I turn on either signal, the rears work as they should (left when I push the switch left and right when I push the switch right), but BOTH front signals blink when the switch is pushed either way. The rear sigs were pretty straight forward, just took the two wires from each of the old signals and connected them to the new ones.

It seems like the problem would more likely be the load adapter. Does that seem right that it could affect the fronts and not the rears? For those who have used one, which wires did you splice it to? I'm gonna do some investigating after work, but I thought I might be able to learn from someone's expertise/experience.

Thanks!
 

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IF you still have the stock lamps in the turn signals and are adding LED lights, you do not need a load adapter. Post back and we'll figure this out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
IF you still have the stock lamps in the turn signals and are adding LED lights, you do not need a load adapter. Post back and we'll figure this out.
My headlight and taillight are stock, but all my turn signals are LEDs.
 

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Did you also install the diode package in the dash turn signal lamp? LEDs draw so little current that they cna cross feed through the single dash iidicator lamp. Try removing the lamp and see if that fixes the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you also install the diode package in the dash turn signal lamp? LEDs draw so little current that they cna cross feed through the single dash iidicator lamp. Try removing the lamp and see if that fixes the issue.
Never heard of it. I'll give it a try. Where would one get this diode package you speak of?
 

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I've seen many of them on eBay, larger bike shops, etc. If you are electrically minded, you can get 2 diodes from Radio Shack, or the like, and just wire them into the circuit yourself. (One into each wire feeding the indicator lamp, with the banded end towards the lamp socket.)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now, what if I just added a second load equalizer? They're flashing kinda fast, so I think I should add one any way. Do you think this will take care of the load problem? Or are we talking two separate issues here?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK. I just looked closer at the part description and it says to use 1 for each pair of lights. Here's the deal. My fronts are snub nose jobbies from Bike Master. I like em, but they just came with a couple resistors. They always did let the signals flash kinda fast. I bet this is lightening the load too much. I'm gonna order a second equalizer.

It still seems funny to me that it's just affecting the front signals, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I put LED signals on rear only. 1 Equalizer on each side, no problems and hyper flash is gone.
One on each signal? What kind of lights? I guess I'm wondering if the equalizers are like the little ones I got from Bike Master or the larger one I got from Kuryakyn?
 

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It might be easier to just purchase an electronic flasher. Available on eBay. Then it will not matter how many LEDs you run as the unit is preset with flash rate Stock flasher is load dependant. As you reduce the current draw the flasher will flash faster. Adding load equalizers fixes the flash rate issue, however, it does nothing to increase the available power for other accessories. Equalizers are simply resistors that shunt electricity to ground, and it is dissapated as heat. Wasted energy. If you want to add electrical things later, like heated grips, fog lamps or the like you may not have enough available. JMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I thought about that, but after your earlier post I wondered how (or if) that would help the load issue you spoke of that may be causing the cross talk issue at the indicator. I doubt if I'll ever add any accessories, but if that changed I'd like to know I could if I wanted to.

Thanks for the help.
 

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One on each signal? What kind of lights? I guess I'm wondering if the equalizers are like the little ones I got from Bike Master or the larger one I got from Kuryakyn?
Just cheap leds from local shop. The resistors came from NAPA. 6ohm 20 watt
I think. Just a ceramic body housing the resistor and a wire out each end. These- [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004C-Light-Bulb-Resistor/dp/B001FCRX3Y[/ame] . The leds aren't bright enough for my liking, so will probably switch them out with these. [ame]http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/drag-specialties-bullet-marker-light-with-dual-filament-red-lens-ea/part/DS-280070[/ame]
They are currently unavailable in Canada till the beginning of May. I will wait, rather than pay the shipping, duty etc from U.S.
 

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Mmmm

I thought about that, but after your earlier post I wondered how (or if) that would help the load issue you spoke of that may be causing the cross talk issue at the indicator. I doubt if I'll ever add any accessories, but if that changed I'd like to know I could if I wanted to.

Thanks for the help.
Cross talk and flash rate are separate, but remotely related issues caused by going to LED lights. The stock flasher is load dependant. Lower load = faster flash rate. Using load equalisers, resistors, or whatever, simply adds a load to the flasher to bring the LED circuit up to where it consumes the sae power as the standard lamps. (be advised that 20 watt ceramic resistors get hot enough to burn you. Mount them safely and in a locatin where they will not contact anything that can melt. I use a 20/35 watt switchable range soldering iron. They are ceramic for a reason! The easiest, and most efficient method to cure the flash rate issue is to change the flasher unit. Load equalisers came out before electronic flasher came on the market in volume. The were a cure. Since back then many manufacturers have stepped up and make solid state flashers for many applications. The increasing use of LEDs is driving that developement and bringing costs down. It also frees up that, otherwise wasted as heat, electrical current for use in other devices.

Crosstalk is caused by the low current draw (and much lower resistance of LEDs). LEDs can actually draw current through the incandescent indicator lamp. When that happens both sides of the bikes lights work at the same time. Think of diodes as one-way electrical valves. By placing one in each turn signal circuit pointed towards the lamp, the electricity can flow to the lamp from each turn signal circuit but not flow against the diode (one way flow) to the other side. Follow?
 

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I'm running all LED's, front, back, brake, tail.

Like Bear said, the issue with the "both sides flashing" is bleed over.

Our bikes have one blinker indicator light on the "dash". Both blinkers, left and right, connect to it.

The bulb actually allows the current to flow on thru to the other side, hitting the opposite blinkers.

Normal bulbs use enough power, there is not enough "left over" power to light up the other side bulbs.

LED's use very little power, so it's double wammy. Lot's of power makes it to the "other side" and that "other side" does not need much to cause it to light up.

Hence..the flashing.

It took me FOREVER to figure that out. Remember, I had totally torn all 4 of my blinkers apart, down to just the housing, then rebuilt them, ran custom wiring, ect. MUST have been something I'd done right??

Anyways, the diode can be bought at any of the online shops. Kuryakyn makes one.

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/diode-kit-for-metric-bikes-each/part/KY-4709


To TEST if this is indeed the problem, unhook the larger electrical connection behind the coil, the one that goes to the tank console. This keeps the power from going to the indicator light. If the multiple flash goes away, then that is indeed your problem. If not..well..it's something else then.

Btw, that's why it took me so long to figure out the issue. The bike was apart when I tore down and rebuilt the blinkers..and everything worked fine. Put the bike together (tank on), and..what? Flashers? Take the bike apart, and the blinkers work. Put it together and the blinkers don't. Ugh! I must have a short! Rebuild the blinkers multiple times..

If you do need to do the diode, it's really easy. Here is a slide show that a guy from one of the other forums put together. It's really helpful.

https://plus.google.com/photos/114064829442182665630/albums/5817890162145543809

I did mine a bit different. I ended up taking the tank off (just could not bring myself to solder on top of this paint, no matter how much I protected it).

Anyways, by doing that, I had access to the entire cable length. About half way down, I split open the plastic wrap some, and installed the diode there. Then closed everything back up and wrapped it nice and tight with electrical tape.


Also, you COULD simply remove the little LED blinker indicator light inside the console. No more bleed over. I ran like that for awhile.




The flashing rate is due to the fact the "flasher" thinks there is a bulb out. This is due to so little power being used.

I fixed that by using a Load Equalizer. If that is the route you choose, I'd advise not skimping on the cost.

the "less expensive" ones simply syphon the power into a heat sink. The heat sink can get pretty darn hot, specially if you leave the blinkers on to long.

the "better ones" don't use heat sinks. They actually funnel the extra power back into the battery.

Due to the fact I'm using a run-turn-brake controller, I had to use 2 of the Load Equalizers.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK, so the short answer?;) If I add another load equalizer, bringing the draw back up closer to incandescent bulb territory, should that fix my crosstalk problem (I hope so, cuz I already ordered it)?

It still seems curious to me that the cross talk only affects the front blinkers. They are completely different lights, though.

Thanks for you time & input, guys.
 

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No, the second load eq won't fix the crosstalk.

it will draw off enough power to fool the flasher into thinking all is ok and will slow down the flash rate.

But you will still get the "bleed" over thru the indicator bulb.

Try unhooking that center electrical connection (the big one) behind the coil cover. See if you still have the flashing thingy going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No, the second load eq won't fix the crosstalk.

it will draw off enough power to fool the flasher into thinking all is ok and will slow down the flash rate.

But you will still get the "bleed" over thru the indicator bulb.

Try unhooking that center electrical connection (the big one) behind the coil cover. See if you still have the flashing thingy going on.
I was afraid of that. Looks like I'll be doing the diode kit, too.

I will do the test you're suggesting to confirm, though. Thanks.

I still need to do the EQ. They're flashing pretty fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, smedlin, what all do you have on yours now? 2 EQs and the diode kit? And it's working OK?

I read through your old thread and I really appreciate you chiming in. If it helps me avoid going through what you went through (and I think it will) you're saving me a LOT of heartache and despair.

Thanks again. To everyone.
 

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So, smedlin, what all do you have on yours now? 2 EQs and the diode kit? And it's working OK?

I read through your old thread and I really appreciate you chiming in. If it helps me avoid going through what you went through (and I think it will) you're saving me a LOT of heartache and despair.

Thanks again. To everyone.
Yeppers, 2 eq and the diode kit.

you don't REALLY need a eq thingy IF your ok with the fast blinking.

I had to use them because I also installed a run-turn-brake controller, and it was getting way to much juice. But remember, even my tail lights are LED's.
 
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