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Discussion Starter #1
Just installed the Thunder air kit for stock cover and followed instructions including mounting the IAT in thier mounting plate.I must admit this is a well engineered kit.
I expected more suction noise like most of the air kits i have put on many bikes in the past.But not the mechanical noise under part throttle from about 2000 rpm to about 3500 rpm.Almost like a knock but its not fuel knock.Way more mechanical noise is hearable over the stock air cleaner set up.Proably coming through the throttle body somewhat.
Anybody else notice more mechanical noise when you ngot rid of the stock set up and went to an air kit like this Thunder kit?
 

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Yep, I added a thunder air kit and it changed the sound. Not sure I like the sound, but I like everything else about adding the air kit.
 

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Yes I noticed. I left the left side on which probably helps and wear a full helmet. It's a muffled mechanical noise. I wonder about the round filter getting enough fresh cold air. My stock cover is still hot as hell using the stock thunder air. Thunder's best kit is the forced air kit. I confirmed with Thunder and they claim it makes more power at the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not sure if I like all the mechanical noise also,but I will leave it on for now.Seems to have more get up and go from 3000 rpm and up,as i expected.And yes it still has a lot of warm air around it but still seems to improve performance somewhat anyways.I am going to study the situation and do some experimintation on reducing the audible engine noise and getting cooler air to the filter.
 

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You took half the stock air box out I'm sure that piece helped muffle the the valve train noise that is probably what you are now hearing in addition to the more open air element noise. Get louder exhaust you won't notice it as much.
 

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Just installed the Thunder air kit for stock cover and followed instructions including mounting the IAT in thier mounting plate.I must admit this is a well engineered kit.
I expected more suction noise like most of the air kits i have put on many bikes in the past.But not the mechanical noise under part throttle from about 2000 rpm to about 3500 rpm.Almost like a knock but its not fuel knock.Way more mechanical noise is hearable over the stock air cleaner set up.Proably coming through the throttle body somewhat.
Anybody else notice more mechanical noise when you ngot rid of the stock set up and went to an air kit like this Thunder kit?

I sometimes hear what sounds similar from my VN2K (even though it has stock air cleaner). I'm not yet unconvinced it's not spark knock because it seems to go away with more throttle or less throttle. You'd think with more throttle it would be worse but I'm wondering if it's not a lean range in the map that happens to coincide with that range of RPM and certain range of percent throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Louder exhaust would help thats for sure.LOL and yes I have just put some 91 octane fuel in the tank to see if the noise is reduced.I have been using 89 with the stock air kit and maybe it was muffling any pre ignition issues.We even have 94 octane up here also.It also has been in the 90,s up here lately and the ambient heat probably is not helping the situation.
 

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Not sure if I like all the mechanical noise also,but I will leave it on for now.Seems to have more get up and go from 3000 rpm and up,as i expected.And yes it still has a lot of warm air around it but still seems to improve performance somewhat anyways.I am going to study the situation and do some experimintation on reducing the audible engine noise and getting cooler air to the filter.
I solved my problem by wearing earplugs. Try it! Seriously. :)
 

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Not to put too fine a point on this, it's a V-twin... they make noise and that's part of their charm, people that don't find it charming end up on Gold Wings and Beemers. If I don't hear the bike breathing and clunking and rumbling I'd think something was wrong. I do wear earplugs, it removes the wind noise and brings the mechanical music into focus...

You should hear her breath, she sounds alive...



 

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I got Chuckster's Kit installed last night, but have yet to properly road test it. First impressions though are that I like the sound!...sort of the throaty sound of a 4 barrel V8 when blipping the throttle. I left the left side open and did not replace the stock filter housing or cover. The sight of the open left side is growing on me. It gives the tall, unobstructed cylinders kind of a Victory appearance.

Just sitting in the garage though, without the engine under true load is not a good test. Are these added objectionable engine noises I am reading about only heard while driving?

When I first fired her up I noticed a pop or two from the exhaust, but once she was warmed up and the ECU had time to settle down, I could not get it to pop, no matter how I turned the throttle or backed it off. I have the stock Classic Shotgun Exhaust and No Fuel Manager.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I too like the throaty carb sound but it's the under heavy part throttle that I hear the knocking noise ,like a knocking rod in a v8 engine,not the marble like pinging of preignition you would suspect under part throttle loads.
But maybe it's just me,noises are subjective to ones hearing and likes.I have had many V twins,but none that sounded like this one.I am still in testing mode yet on the noise.I may get use to it or find that higher octane fuel may cure an issue I did not expect.you would not think giving it part throttle at 2500 rpm would be considered lugging it without shifting down,would ya?
 

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I too like the throaty carb sound but it's the under heavy part throttle that I hear the knocking noise ,like a knocking rod in a v8 engine,not the marble like pinging of preignition you would suspect under part throttle loads.
RACNRAY mentioned that some BAK's can suffer from "intake reversion" due to the shorter intake tract. On some bikes you can actually hear this "air hammering" which may sound like a rod knock. My 2004 Roadstar did this at certain rpm. So far, I haven't heard this with the Chuckster 1700 BAK.
 

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Under some acceleration I have been getting a squealing sound like what a belt would sound like. Pushing my leg against the stock cover changes the sound so I know it's coming from the BAK. A check of torque to the bolts will be the first thing although Thunder, like most bolt on mods, does not specify torque values. The bike is running strong with the Cobra fuel box, slip on mufflers, and sensor relocate. Best setting on Cobra is 4.9,4.5,3.5.

I took some surface temperature readings with a infrared thermometer just after a 40 mile ride to see how much cooler the sensor may be in its relocated area and the results show the BAK plate gets good and hot, much more so than the location on the neck. The outside of the stock cover and the sensor on the neck were only a couple of degrees off while the back plate was much hotter. I can't remember the exact numbers. I'll post the pictures up when I get a chance.
 

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Under some acceleration I have been getting a squealing sound like what a belt would sound like. Pushing my leg against the stock cover changes the sound so I know it's coming from the BAK. A check of torque to the bolts will be the first thing although Thunder, like most bolt on mods, does not specify torque values.
A thorough test of my Chuckster unit revealed that I have the "BAK Chirp" under acceleration as well. It is less pronounced when the bike is fully warmed up. This alone would be enough to sour me on the whole thing.

Something must be rubbing or vibrating during acceleration. I took the air cover off after my ride and noticed that the K&N seal to the air cover was worn dry near the top where it contacts the cover. I put some high temp grease on this seal to see if this is the cause. The chirping could also come from any one of the four threaded posts where they contact the cover. This metal to metal contact does not really exist with the stock air box.

My 2 hour test drive left me less than impressed with this BAK. It only sounds good at idle or when the engine is not under load. It revs much more freely, but I do not feel any real improvement in acceleration. Engine braking power is greatly reduced and I'm not sure what to make of this symptom. I'm not getting the extreme knock that ta-kid describes, but there is definite "air hammering" if you let the revs drop too low.

There may be a bit more power, but only if you keep the revs up. Overall, the stock setup provided me much better drivability and real-world torque. I'm going to give it one more good run to see if I keep it on the bike or not. If the "CHIRPING" is still there on my next ride I may chalk this up to another costly motorcycle performance experiment - although, I have spent more on other failed experiments ;).
 

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Hammer,

I'm going to change my oil tomorrow and pop off the cover. The thunder kit comes with grease for the ends of the K&N. I'm going to inspect, add more grease if needed, and check the crankcase hose puke. I've got about 300 miles on this mod and the bike is running great. Rare! I posted my latest Cobra pot settings and have had the Powerpro (although it failed) both processors produced gains in the seat o pants acceleration.

Don't give up on the air kit. You got to get more fuel in. At the minimum I'd move the sensor up to see if acceleration improves. I've done rides with these fuel boxes on and then off back to back and there is a difference in rider satisfaction. It has been my experience with the classic that once you start modding from bone stock no matter how small the change the frustration and struggles begin.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
RACNRAY mentioned that some BAK's can suffer from "intake reversion" due to the shorter intake tract. On some bikes you can actually hear this "air hammering" which may sound like a rod knock. My 2004 Roadstar did this at certain rpm. So far, I haven't heard this with the Chuckster 1700 BAK.
Interesting comment.The original air box has two short velocity tubes as part of the intake trac and maybe that may help reduce the problem.I may try movig the IAT also..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I could see no easy way to mount the stock rubber velocity stacks onto the thunder kit base plate other then glueing them in place,but what would you use as I would imagine that plate gets quite warm.And i am not sure if that would get rid of the part throttle reversion knock in the end anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok I have done some research and there is some automotive bonding agents out there that can withstand heat and bond rubber to metal like Locktite 410/411 3m scotch weld etc...I think I will go shopping and see what comes of it as the original rubber velocity stacks are removable and I can try bonding to the metal mounting plate.I will update you with the end result.Any other ideas let me know guys.
 

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Well I could see no easy way to mount the stock rubber velocity stacks onto the thunder kit base plate other then glueing them in place,but what would you use as I would imagine that plate gets quite warm.And i am not sure if that would get rid of the part throttle reversion knock in the end anyways.
It would be better to use Thunder's forced air kit rather than the stock kit if this was a concern. The intake acts as a large velocity stack coming off the throttle bodies. The air is probably "colder" coming in the filter as it sits off the motor.

I confirmed with Thunder that this kit makes the most power particularly in higher RPMs.

http://www.thundermfg.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=364
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes you are correct 1700classic,but that means another $250+ for me and this mod I am thinking of doing may work for now.?besides I have a VV and with all the fairing and lowers, I Proably do not get the cool air flow like you would on a classic.
 
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