Transition ports are clogged just behind the butterfly..gonna have to take it back out and run some guitar string through them .Hey everyone, so ive made a couple posts since picking this bike up. Its a 2001 1500 classic carb model. Had been sitting for about 2 years and didn't run. 45k miles on the clock but in excellent overall shape. When the owner initially told me all it needed was a battery to run I knew that wouldn't be the case. Hooked up a battery and attempted tonstart and all it did was pour fuel from a vent line that runs unto the back of the intake.
I pulled the tank and carb and went through it. Nothing looked bad inside and I feel like I did a decent job. Installed a new fuel filter, changed the oil and new battery. Hooked up a small auxilary tank so I could run the bike and be able to look for leaks without having the main tank on. It fired up and once again poured fuel from that vent hose. After idling for about a minute fuel stopped comming from that hose. If I don't touch the throttle it will idle and sounds good. Apply throttle and wants to fall on it face and die. If I feather it a little I can get it to rev up and seems to rev pretty clean. Let it back to idle and once again wants to die out with just a little throttle applied.
Bike has vance and hines longshots, kuryakyn hypercharger, carb has been jetted with a dynojet kit. I had received the packaging with extra jets. I didnt make any changes to the carb itself as I was told it ran well prior to sitting so didn't want to throw anything off blindly swapping jets or making adjustments. Im not a fan of carbs so this drives me nuts seeing as ill probably have to take it apart again. Any initial impressions or thoughts?
You have to bend the wire and it has to be stiff enough..may be able to use a single strand from an old clutch cable.Bummer, knew I'd have to pull it out again. At least having done it once it should be easier a second time. I do have a couple guitars but not sure I have any extra string. Anything else that would work? And its safe to put something into those ports and not cause issues? I'll get the carb back off and see what I can make happen.
Two and a quarter will be close..with the 48.you can start with two and half if you want...is the mix screw easy enough to get to with the carb on?Jets are all nice and clean. I do have a 48 pilot on hand i can swap in. Just worried I won't get the mixture set right and it's not accessible once the carb is on the bike from what I can tell anyway. I could do the 48 pilot and 2 1/4 on the mixture and would get me in the ball park? Its at 3.5 turns out on the 45 right now. It did idle well when I wasnt touching the throttle.
I did attempt to spray through that hole on the left but probably didn't have the pilot in at the time. Also ran out of carb cleaner so need to pick up a few cans as well as a can of compressed air. I also tried using a strand of wire from a metal bristle brush and even that I couldn't get an angle to drop the wire into those small ports. Ill leave the main alone for now since ive yet to be able to ride the bike and see how it performs but have 2 more larger sizes if needed. As far as the needle goes ill just leave it as it was with the clip position and washers. Ill just keep spraying away and hope I get it clean enough to run better.
If its hard to get to..go with two and a half...if your idle turns out a touch rich..turning up the idle a scosh leans it a little...just like that starving for fuel just coming off idle thing..as the transition port isn't slotted but has holes which create 'dead spots'...its just like a Harley..its why they pop and backfire just off idle...sometimes just turning out the mix fixes them..if not then next pilot up in size..the last trick but only if it can not be cured with jetting is to bevel a couple millimeters on the butterfly where they line up with the transfer ports...its last resort but does work..last resort as its permanent.Ive read that its suggested to get an extended mixture screw, baron makes one for around $25 which is costly for one screw. But otherwise its barely accessible once the carb is installed. Partly why id almost want to leave everything as it was and just make sure it clean. Ive had carbs before with the screw turned 3.5 out and thats about max before youd worry about it possible rattling loose. Maybe ill do the 48 at 2.5 turns out and see if I can maybe find a tool that allows me to reach the screw. But im sure the 48 would provide some benefits. Im considering picking up a can of berryman chem dip from the auto store and letting the carb soak in it overnight just as as extra method of cleaning.
I read some more later after I posted that.some was coming with the 42 and some 45..dependant upon model.It does appear that a 42 is stock so the 45 i have now is upgraded. Mixture screw is pretty far out still for having a larger pilot. But ill keep settings as they were and just make sure everything clean. If I have to remove everything again I will but hope to be able to actually test ride once back together. One question I have is about the needle. I know its a different needle and has the adjustable clip. Usually ive read people will shin the stock needle with a washer under the clip to raise the needle a hair. In my case there was 3 washers on top of the clip. Wouls this just be adding slight more tension to the spring that sits on the needle retainer? I believe in the jet kit instructions I read about putting the washers on top. Not something I've done before. But as mentioned above jll leave everything as it was and get things clean. Ran before so should run again. Should be able to to test again this afternoon.
I wont go the dip route. Worried about the plastic elbows having issues in the solution. And im sure they will break if I attempt to remove them. Will pick up a few more cans of carb clean and compressed air and go through the passageways as much as I can.
The increased spring tension may have been an effort by the aftermarket supplier to prevent slide quiver..they usually don't quiver when they are running right though..some people drill out the port hole to make the slide raise faster..which can induce quiver.Whats odd is the washers aren't under the clip they are on top. Ive shimmed needles before and always put the washers under the clip which would then raise the needle. But these washers sit on top of the clip. Pretty sure the jet kit instructions even said to do this but ill double check. Its how it was when I originally took it all apart and threw me off a little. But that would cause more tension on the spring with the washers being on top thus pushing the retainer up a hair but only a very small bit. Id almost want to start from scratch on the jetting but ill just get things clean and go from there. It idled and revved just didn't want to come off idle so I should be okay once that pilot circuit is clear.
No holes drilled in the butterfly. Everything looks correct as far as the jetting kit instructions from what I can tell.
Got you.The supplied jet kit included drill bits and instructions talking about drilling out the hole in the slide. Not 100% sure if it was drilled though. Ill pull the carb back back off if need be but for now will keep everything as it was for a baseline and try to get it rideable and go from there.