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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone put a scootworks front pully on in the last year or so? Wondering if all the bad rap is from the initial design which I read has been revised. I know folks love the Barons but I guess I didn't fully do my research and ordered a Scootworks. I know I got one that was just made in the last month because there was a delay in shipping while more were being produced. Any body have any recent feedback on this subject?
 

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Try and get your money back !, Scootworks pulleys are junk, know from experience. They may or may not ship your order and the customer service does not exist. You may get one call into them after order is put in but after that they forget how to answer the phone. You'll get better service and satisfaction talking to your dog about pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I have the scootworks, and on visual inspection it looks ok. Doesn't appear to be bad manufacturing or any rough spots. Guess I will install it and see how it goes. Doubt anyone wants to buy it with all the bad rap going around. If it squeal's though, its coming off and I will order the Barons. I am going to approach it with an open mind and hope they fixed whatever issues they were having. I have to think the aluminum one weighs less anyway, so better performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Put my scootworks pully on last night. I didn't snap any pics but I left all the covers off so I can check belt alignment once I can get the snow off my driveway. Install was fairly easy as long as you have the right tools. Re-aligning the rear wheel was my biggest worry but I did plenty of measuring and got it back in the same shape it was in before so hopefully its good. I forgot to check any belt tension spec's but I had previously felt the belt and I remember it being stiffer than expected. I set it where I thought it felt good so I guess I will just have to drive it and see what happens.

I tried to compare my stock pully to the scootworks, and all I can say is that they appear to be of similar construction, and weight. The scootworks has a bit taller teeth and slightly less rounded and smooth vs stock. I only have 75 miles on the stock pully so I don't know if any amount of break-in was done during that time. Cant wait to get it out on the road for a ride. Hopefully this is a better part than some of the older ones everyone complains about.

Note - if anyone is putting a front only overdrive pully on, I found that my front wheel was sitting exactly 9/32" further forward on both sides when I got everything adjusted to what I feel was proper tension. Obviously I haven't tested that yet as mentioned above, but will update this post when I find the final adjustment assuming this is not it. That should be a good bit of info for anyone attempting the mod. Mark your frame before you begin.
 

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BOTM Winner, June 2015
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Preaching to the choir

Try and get your money back !, Scootworks pulleys are junk, know from experience. They may or may not ship your order and the customer service does not exist. You may get one call into them after order is put in but after that they forget how to answer the phone. You'll get better service and satisfaction talking to your dog about pulleys.
HAHAHAHAHA! Couldn't have said it better myself! My Scootworks fiasco is well documented here. I will NEVER buy ANYTHING from them again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I have to say I have not had any of these bad experiences everyone talks about with scootworks so far. My pulley seems to be working good for now since I got my belt tension proper, and I did email them a couple of times for technical assistance. They were prompt and very informative with their responses. Only time will tell on the longevity of my pulley, but based on my experience alone they are as good or better of a company (now at least) as any I have worked with. I would say that anyone on the fence should make their own decisions, but don't be afraid to go with the lighter pulley if you want better performance.
 

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Put my scootworks pully on last night. I didn't snap any pics but I left all the covers off so I can check belt alignment once I can get the snow off my driveway. Install was fairly easy as long as you have the right tools. Re-aligning the rear wheel was my biggest worry but I did plenty of measuring and got it back in the same shape it was in before so hopefully its good. I forgot to check any belt tension spec's but I had previously felt the belt and I remember it being stiffer than expected. I set it where I thought it felt good so I guess I will just have to drive it and see what happens.

I tried to compare my stock pully to the scootworks, and all I can say is that they appear to be of similar construction, and weight. The scootworks has a bit taller teeth and slightly less rounded and smooth vs stock. I only have 75 miles on the stock pully so I don't know if any amount of break-in was done during that time. Cant wait to get it out on the road for a ride. Hopefully this is a better part than some of the older ones everyone complains about.

Note - if anyone is putting a front only overdrive pully on, I found that my front wheel was sitting exactly 9/32" further forward on both sides when I got everything adjusted to what I feel was proper tension. Obviously I haven't tested that yet as mentioned above, but will update this post when I find the final adjustment assuming this is not it. That should be a good bit of info for anyone attempting the mod. Mark your frame before you begin.

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89218

Here's a link to a thread with a lot of good info on issues with belt tension on these bikes. You really should get a belt tension gauge. It can be had from Amazon for like $10. Then you will know where you are at or where you want to be. Common consensus is that Kawi sets the belt way too tight from the factory. Us more experienced riders have set the tension closer to HD specs. (8-10mm @ 10lbs force) I suggest you get a factory service manual for reference, or at least a Clymers manual. Both can be had on ebay for relatively cheap. Myself I have a digital copy (for my phone and at work) and a paper copy of the factory service manual, and a Clymers manual. Guess I am a bit anal that way. I buy them for everything I work on, my library is rather extensive.
 

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BOTM Winner, June 2015
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http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89218

Here's a link to a thread with a lot of good info on issues with belt tension on these bikes. You really should get a belt tension gauge. It can be had from Amazon for like $10. Then you will know where you are at or where you want to be. Common consensus is that Kawi sets the belt way too tight from the factory. Us more experienced riders have set the tension closer to HD specs. (8-10mm @ 10lbs force) I suggest you get a factory service manual for reference, or at least a Clymers manual. Both can be had on ebay for relatively cheap. Myself I have a digital copy (for my phone and at work) and a paper copy of the factory service manual, and a Clymers manual. Guess I am a bit anal that way. I buy them for everything I work on, my library is rather extensive.
I agree that belt tension is too tight from factory as well as from Kawasaki dealers' service departments. When I had my rear tire replaced at the dealer they put the belt to factory specs and within 100 miles of riding the front pulley retaining nut started to work loose as a result. I put my belt tension (as DeputyLoud stated) closer to HD specs and no issues since. Just my 2 cents.
 

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What tension gauge do you use DeputyLoud?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got the kawi tension gague. Ended up setting tension at the 4-5mm mark just past the end of the kawi range. Seems to be working good, if anything its still plenty tight.
 

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