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2010 Kawasaki Voyager 1700 ABS
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
Cruser2 hear. I have a 2010 Voyager 1700 and with 62,000k on it and I'm changing out the steering bearings to tapered. I can't seem to find any information on the torquing specs on the bearings. Now that been said, I had 2 GL1800 Goldwings that I had replace the head bearings and the preset was 29 ft-lbs, torque and release twice with a final setting of 19 ft-lbs. Bike rode strait as an arrow at any speed with no issues. Being the GL1800 and the Voyager 1700 are similar in weight, would it be safe to say to use the same method on my Voyager as I had on the Goldwing? Any thoughts?
 

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From the manual:
Tighten the steering stem nut with 55 N·m (5.6 kgf·m, 41ft·lb) of torque first, and loosen it a fraction of a turn until it turns lightly. Afterward tighten it again with specified torque using a stem nut wrench [A] in the direction shown. ○Check that there is no play and the steering stem turns smoothly without rattles. If not, the steering stem bearings may be damaged. Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100 Torque - Steering Stem Nut: 29 N·m (3.0 kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)
So a little tighter than your Goldwing. Kaw specs are for the OEM ball bearings, but I've used the same numbers for my All Balls roller bearings, without issue.
 

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2010 Kawasaki Voyager 1700 ABS
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Discussion Starter #3
From the manual:


So a little tighter than your Goldwing. Kaw specs are for the OEM ball bearings, but I've used the same numbers for my All Balls roller bearings, without issue.
Hi Paul (Peg),
Thank you for the insight and shared information. I'm hoping, if parts all come in tomorrow that i will tackle the steering.
Deano
 

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there's also the "fork flop" method, tighten to point where forks bind or don't easily flop side to side, then back off.
I didn't have a proper stem nut wrench that fit a torque wrench. used a #44 bicycle crank wrench to hand tighten, and then hammer tap.
biggest issue is getting the bearing inner seat to lodge proper against stop. it took a couple of road trials and bearing adjusts.
now that the handlebar wobble is gone, I can feel the lower fork tubes have a bit of "slosh" with stanchion tubes, when checking the head bearing. time for bushing change?
 
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