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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking through a service manual I downloaded and unless im reading it wrong it says i have to take off the entire tank to put in fresh coolant which I think i need to do since it sat for the most part for two years from the previous owner. Is that correct?, I want to put in fresh engine ice per smedlin, figure if it keeps his cool in Texas it'll keep mine really cool in MI, also want to run some kind of fine injector fuel line cleaner through it only half a tank when i bought it so it may have condensation, and I still need to change the oil, don't want to keep riding it without doing the maintenance
 

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I have the 900 bit they should be similar. You must remove the tank to fill through the radiator cap, highest point in the system.

I changed spark plugs while in there since it was time for that too.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Taking the tank off is easier than you might think. Making sure it's close to empty is a big help. If you leave the gas cap closed (why wouldn't you?) the gas won't spill out when you take off the fuel line (no more than a few drops, anyway). Just make sure you have someplace to set it before you lift it off (guess how I learned that?).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its down to two bars of fuel right now, shouldnt be hard to empty that out, really want to change that coolant, hear its kind of manditory for that year vulcan to keep fresh coolant in there
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The guy changed the oil last year, only rode about 200 miles, do I really need to change it since it was in a heated garage the whole winter? The maintenance i have to do is killing is gonna kill my riding time.
 

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Taking off the tank is REALLY simple.

And like Bill said, it's easier the less gas you have in there. But that's really only cause of a weight thingy. I've taken it off when it's full several times. Does weight a lot though.

And like Bill said, make sure you have place laid out to put it. Somewhere out of the way (no risk of it getting kicked or scratched).

To remove the tank, take off the seat and remove the tank bolt. That's the single large bolt at the very "end" of the tank, right under the front of where the seat would be.

At this point, I'll lift the tank up a few inches and slide something under where the bolt goes. I have big hands and those few inches of space help to access the fuel hose.

Below the coil, are three electrical connections. Make note of how the wires are "run/wrapped", so you can redo it (quick snapshot from cell phone is handy). Undo all three.

Find the fuel hose behind the coil. See the red/orange clamp? Take a flat head screw driver and poke each side of the clamp in towards the hose, then push the clamp back. Pull off hose from pump. A bit of gas will leak out from the hose, it's ok.

Don't forget breather hose, located on the underside by that first tank bolt you took off.

The tank lifts up and toward the seat. Don't bang it on the handlebars.

i was nervous when I first did it. Now I can have it off in less than five minutes.
 

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The guy changed the oil last year, only rode about 200 miles, do I really need to change it since it was in a heated garage the whole winter? The maintenance i have to do is killing is gonna kill my riding time.
Personally, I would.

Even though it's only had 200 miles on it, the oil is a year old.

The first 6 years I had the bike, I always had the dealer change the oil. I started changing my own last year. Done it twice now. It's SUPER easy.

For a good chuckle, you can read about my adventurers last year when I changed the oil for the first time.

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23883
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Taking off the tank is REALLY simple.

And like Bill said, it's easier the less gas you have in there. But that's really only cause of a weight thingy. I've taken it off when it's full several times. Does weight a lot though.

And like Bill said, make sure you have place laid out to put it. Somewhere out of the way (no risk of it getting kicked or scratched).

To remove the tank, take off the seat and remove the tank bolt. That's the single large bolt at the very "end" of the tank, right under the front of where the seat would be.

At this point, I'll lift the tank up a few inches and slide something under where the bolt goes. I have big hands and those few inches of space help to access the fuel hose.

Below the coil, are three electrical connections. Make note of how the wires are "run/wrapped", so you can redo it (quick snapshot from cell phone is handy). Undo all three.

Find the fuel hose behind the coil. See the red/orange clamp? Take a flat head screw driver and poke each side of the clamp in towards the hose, then push the clamp back. Pull off hose from pump. A bit of gas will leak out from the hose, it's ok.

Don't forget breather hose, located on the underside by that first tank bolt you took off.

The tank lifts up and toward the seat. Don't bang it on the handlebars.

i was nervous when I first did it. Now I can have it off in less than five minutes.
that actually sounds pretty easy, I have the manual that I downloaded off the internet, think its for the v2k a1, any big changes i should be aware of between A1and A2?

Personally, I would.

Even though it's only had 200 miles on it, the oil is a year old.

The first 6 years I had the bike, I always had the dealer change the oil. I started changing my own last year. Done it twice now. It's SUPER easy.

For a good chuckle, you can read about my adventurers last year when I changed the oil for the first time.

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23883
Im using you as a measure of what to do to keep my bike purring, the engine ice, the amsoil 10w40 synthetic, as much as you love that bike I figure following you is a smart thing and bare care of course, the man is awesome
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I find that an old tire works well to set the tank on when you have it off. Actually, the one I use is a new tire that I had on my bike for a while and didn't like. In any event, works well.

Good idea and I have a few old tire around
 

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Probably dont need to mention this but just to be sure fill it with distilled water along with the coolant ! I also tighten up all the hose clamps ( easy to do when the tanks off ) . Couple of years ago i changed my coolant put it all back together and the first ride i went on one of the hoses started leaking cause the clamp was loose I ENDED UP taking it all apart again. bd
 

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Probably dont need to mention this but just to be sure fill it with distilled water along with the coolant ! I also tighten up all the hose clamps ( easy to do when the tanks off ) . Couple of years ago i changed my coolant put it all back together and the first ride i went on one of the hoses started leaking cause the clamp was loose I ENDED UP taking it all apart again. bd
negative with the engine ice. No mixing needed, it comes ready to pour in.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well my intention was to go and clean the bike, check and see what i needed to get and have dinner with my woman, but somehow my key fell into the ignition snd Sh*t happened!, a pissed off woman but 4 hours of throttle therapy. On another note this v2k with all the upgrades is noticanly faster than my stock v2k classic i had, feels like i could do a hundred all day long without breaking a sweat, of course felt like that stock but moreso now
 

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well my intention was to go and clean the bike, check and see what i needed to get and have dinner with my woman, but somehow my key fell into the ignition snd Sh*t happened!, a pissed off woman but 4 hours of throttle therapy. On another note this v2k with all the upgrades is noticanly faster than my stock v2k classic i had, feels like i could do a hundred all day long without breaking a sweat, of course felt like that stock but moreso now
Yeppers.. gotta open her up and let her breath.

You have an 05.. done the resistor mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i have no idea what a resistor mod is and in any case no mechanical abilities at sll, lol
 

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When your ready, let us know, it's VERY easy.

Bascially, Kawasaki thought the V2K has TO much power. So, using the ECU (the computer that controls everthing), they retarded the timing in gears 1-4. Bascially, they but back on the max output each gear can produce.

they kept changing it up for the first several years. The 04's have the most to gain. Not only are they "cut back" the most, but they can produce their "max timing" is higher if not held back.

The 05's are next, having the 2nd most gain.

I don't remember the exact numbers, but the 04's have something like a 40% reduction in 1st gear.

The "resistor" mod is to "by pass" the circuit that tells the ECU to cut back on the torque.


It really is the single best mod you can do. Mainly cause if you use ONLY the resistor, it cost less than 2 bucks.

2 bucks for a kick in the pants increase in power.

There is a "coupling" you can buy for like 20 bucks. You can make changes to IT, then plug it in. This way your not modifying any of the "stock wiring".

A lot of us do it that way (including myself).

and there is nothing really mechanical about it. More electrical. You have to cut 2 or 3 wires, soldier in a resistor, and that's it.

Let us know when you are ready, and we can walk ya thru it.
 

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The coupling smedlin speaks of is the wiring harness for a Speedo-Healer. You just need the harness, not the Speedo-Healer.

Here's a thread that explains how to to it using the harness (go down to post #15). It also gives more exact info on the part info.
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/129276-completed-resistor-mod-v2k.html

If you're interested, I've got 1 resistor left. It's the exact right one for the mod. And it will cost you a lot less than $2.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
dont need more power but ill take it, lol
 
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