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I have just over 15,000 km on my 2013 Classic. Is it okay to use synthetic oil for my next oil change? Is there any benefit to the synthetic over regular oil?
 

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I use Shell Rotela T6. It's cheap, I already have it around for my Cummins, it's synthetic and it works fine.

Changing your oil often is probably more important than what kind you use if you want to get a lot of miles out of your bike. Changing your oil often with synthetic is even better.
 

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oil to oil or not to oil?????????/??

All those oil issues from the past just ran through my mind. all those discussions were so much fun. I think we decided to stick with 10-40 on the liquid cooled engines, and every oil I ever heard of was discussed and some I hadn't heard of. I use syn. and just found out this yr. that my dealer uses Motul, for what ever reason. Supposed to run cooler etc. I still change at the beginning of the riding season and after long trips and at the close of the season, no particular reason other than it's easy to do, I enjoy it and it's not overly expensive. Nuff said from me.
 

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Almost nuff said. Make sure you get the proper oil with the correct formulas for motorcycles as it can affect the clutches.
 

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Valvoline does make a full synthetic that has the JASO rating
 

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I run the Kawasaki 10w-40 Full Synthetic. She seams to like it. Also runs smoother.
 

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The oil can froth and foam if it isn't correctly formulated....
conversely, what often happens is that with Rotella: or other oils designed for Diesels, is that they're formulated for typical diesel engines to which have a redline of about 2500 RPM.

When that said oil is used in engines that have redlines of over 7k RPM, or (god forbid) in sportbike engines that have redlines of 13k or higher, you'll find these (intended for diesel) oils will froth heavily and not offer the fluid film protection you'd have for oils actually designed for these applications.

Not only that, but as most people know, diesels run very dirty with heavy carbon fouling that occurs. These diesel specific oils are often laden with scrubbing additives that are very harmful for gasoline engine seals, of which are not designed to cope with these scrubbing agents. So its really not often to see higher KM gas engines that have leaking seals if these typical Rotella type oils were used consistently.

I remember having this convo with my dad when I was 16 trying to explain these things, since most of our gas engines at the farm were leaking all over from failed seals and premature wear. Finally one day he tried using nothing but conventional oils in the gas engines and ever since we've never had the problem replicate itself.

While its true, higher viscosity oils will have a stronger fluid film strength, (which is ideal) but often the smaller passages in the engine restrict the flow to these thicker oils, which almost defeats the purpose.
 

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Oh no not another synth v dino oil q? I prefer semi synth motorcycle oil with the appropriate specs. My Triumph specifies only synth or semi synth but on the vulcan it doesn't reeally matter. They are not high performance motors.
 

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Fawlty oil and Gfish

Exactly, I would have thought my Kawasaki dealer would use Kaw. Syn. I couldn't think of the JASO rating to save my butt. Gettin old. Oh Yeah, once again. We sure have had some fun with this oil issue. I bet that all of our bikes are running good and haven't had any engine failures, so all must be well or oil is well that ends well. If anybody blows an engine let us know what oil you were using.
 

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All those oil issues from the past just ran through my mind. all those discussions were so much fun. I think we decided to stick with 10-40 on the liquid cooled engines, and every oil I ever heard of was discussed and some I hadn't heard of. I use syn. and just found out this yr. that my dealer uses Motul, for what ever reason. Supposed to run cooler etc. I still change at the beginning of the riding season and after long trips and at the close of the season, no particular reason other than it's easy to do, I enjoy it and it's not overly expensive. Nuff said from me.
+1. Pick a good, reputable oil and filter, and change often and regularly. I think everything beyond this is in the realm of pure theory.
 

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I have always used whatever oil the owner's manual calls for. Manufacturers all cover new bikes under warranty and the last thing they want to do is pay a dealer to correct engine problems. I'm sure they pay their engineers a lot of money to safeguard against having to do so...seems like a simple concept to me.
 

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I run the Kawasaki 10w-40 Full Synthetic. She seams to like it. Also runs smoother.
I would use this or Mobil 1 motorcycle. Running the Kawi non synthetic now until I get to around 1500 miles then I'm switching to synthetic.
 

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I've always used Motul syn or Amsoil in my bikes and have never had a single issue, they always run like a top, and I used to beat on my Triumph 675 sport bike like a red headed step child at the track doing track days, still at 50k km's on it, never an issue and still didn't burn oil. For my 900, I'll probably just use the OEM kawi oil, it's very good stuff as well
 

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I have always used whatever oil the owner's manual calls for. Manufacturers all cover new bikes under warranty and the last thing they want to do is pay a dealer to correct engine problems. I'm sure they pay their engineers a lot of money to safeguard against having to do so...seems like a simple concept to me.
That simple concept shouldn't give anyone any problems.

Sometimes it does get a little less simple though.

For instance.
My 2011 Rocket has a recommendation of Mobil 1.
The 2014 Rockets now have a recommendation of Castrol.

I'd be willing to bet that either would work just fine.

Oh, and here's a picture of the Castrol Rocket III.

So, there's that.......:)
 

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OEM oil recommendations

I have wondered if the Mfg. don't work a deal and say like "How much will you pay us to use your oil?"
 

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Just switched out the bike I have now to Rotella T6 and it does a fine job so far. I will be keeping this in the bike from here on out as I know Rotella makes a good oil. I used it for years in my Ford Power Stroke diesel and it ran great in that one too.
 

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conversely, what often happens is that with Rotella: or other oils designed for Diesels, is that they're formulated for typical diesel engines to which have a redline of about 2500 RPM.

When that said oil is used in engines that have redlines of over 7k RPM, or (god forbid) in sportbike engines that have redlines of 13k or higher, you'll find these (intended for diesel) oils will froth heavily and not offer the fluid film protection you'd have for oils actually designed for these applications.

Not only that, but as most people know, diesels run very dirty with heavy carbon fouling that occurs. These diesel specific oils are often laden with scrubbing additives that are very harmful for gasoline engine seals, of which are not designed to cope with these scrubbing agents. So its really not often to see higher KM gas engines that have leaking seals if these typical Rotella type oils were used consistently.

I remember having this convo with my dad when I was 16 trying to explain these things, since most of our gas engines at the farm were leaking all over from failed seals and premature wear. Finally one day he tried using nothing but conventional oils in the gas engines and ever since we've never had the problem replicate itself.

While its true, higher viscosity oils will have a stronger fluid film strength, (which is ideal) but often the smaller passages in the engine restrict the flow to these thicker oils, which almost defeats the purpose.
Interesting theory, but Rotella is JASO MA certified and I very much doubt that the anal Japanese would approve anything that would destroy the seals on their engines or froth and foam in a deleterious manner.

I have not heard of one reported incidence of anyone ever having a foaming or frothing problem using JASO MA approved Rotella in their M/C's on any forum anywhere...

Nor have I ever read of nor heard mention of any seal failure issues regarding the use of JASO MA approved Rotella in a M/C engine.

What happened with unspecified diesel oil's in farm equipment years ago really doesn't apply to Rotela T6 which is JASO MA approved as specified in the Kawasaki owners manual.

But use whatever you want... I am very satisfied with T6 in my Vulcan and V-Strom (V-Strom redline is 10,000 something.)

I did mention that Rotella T6 is JASO MA certified, didn't I? :D
 
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