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I just bought (today) a 2004 1600 Classic. The previous owner told me not to use synthetic, as he had it cause clutch slippage in the past. Has anyone else had this issue? Is he pulling my leg? Or is this valid and I should use regular oil? Or?
 

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I can't speak for the 1600 but I switched to synthetic on my 9 and saw better performance and smoother shifting.
 

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Synthetic oil isn't the issue, friction modifiers are. If the label says something about enhancing fuel efficiency, keep it away from your clutch.
 

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I read an article a while back about some synthetics viscosity levels and inhibitors. Been awhile and can't remember much of the article anymore. But I do remember that my decided fix for the problem was to get synthetic oil made specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches. It has worked for me so far, but it can cause some light oil leaks on some 1500's that may need patching up. Usually older ones that have a little more worn O-rings and fittings.
 

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well let's see... the previous owner tells you that the bike had clutch slippage when using synthetic, and you seem to think he was pulling your leg... What would be the harm to believe him and use recommended bike oil for a wet clutch bikes? Why the need to use synthetic?
 

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another thing, since a Trade Panel ruling on the word 'Synthetic' printed on oil containers determined that 'Synthetic' on any manufacturers container is a 'Marketing term only', let us know what oil you are thinking of putting in your 1600 because not all oil jugs that say 'Synthetic' are actually synthetic. The consumer has to do their own oil chemical composition research on what's actually in the oil jug first before buying it thanks to the Trade Panel ruling. In other words... 'Synthetic' printed on oil jugs has no meaning whatsoever now.
 

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what I mean is this,, some guy said he uses 'Synthetic' oil in his wet clutch bike but is it real 'synthetic' or 'marketing synthetic'? because some oil companies print synthetic on their jugs but its actually group II base oil that's steam cleaned and does not harm to wet clutches, so when he tells you that synthetic is ok for your bike, and you go out and buy a jug of oil from a different manufacturer that says 'synthetic' on the jug and it really is Synthetic oil and your clutch starts slipping, do you see the confusion here? some oils that say synthetic are not and some that say synthetic actually will slip your clutch, so be cautious of who is telling you they use synthetic oil cause they may not actually know that it could actually be Group II dino oil that's marketed and sold as 'Synthetic'. Buyer beware.
 

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OK, the 1600 manual states to use: API SE, SF or SG class, or API SH or SJ class with JASO MA. And the viscosity to use is SAE 10W-40. As long as you abide by those specs, it makes no difference if its synthetic or not. And it will not cause clutch slippage. A good synthetic oil does not break down as easily as standard oil which is one reason why some folks switch over. But either is fine to use especially when we are changing our oil so often it seems.
 

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Just avoid any oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API seal. Those contain friction modifiers that will cause a wet clutch to slip.
 

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Suggest using oil which is JASO approved. These are approved for motorcycle use because they do not have friction reducing properties and contain metals which aid in clutch use. These are not necessarily motorcycle-specific oils. Example - I use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic, basically an oil for trucks but is JASO approved. Other riders obviously have different preferences - this is NOT intended to start another motorcycle oil war!
 

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I bought a 1600 Nomad in 2007 and sold it a few weeks ago and always used full synthetic since the first oil change and never had a problem. The bike also had the smoothest shifting of all the bikes i ever owned. I always used oil specifically labelled for motorcycles and for the first 5 or so years i bought full synthetic from the Kawasaki dealer. Yes Kawasaki makes full synthetic for your bike but now i buy mobile-1 full synthetic labeled for motorcycles. Their is some truth to the report about some oils labeled synthetic but really are not but not the quality brand names.
 

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***** Ha!

This'll stump all of ya'!

I use dinosaur oil and change it every 3000 miles. Filter also and I check the screen.... bahahahahahahaha


Sorry guys, I just felt like I had to chime in...... I'm going back to my corner now...
 

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Just a side note.....I used to have a 1500 Classic and the 1st time I used Mobil 1 Racing 4T 4 Stroke Synthetic oil it caused my starter to not engage sporadically. The starter would just spin and I would have to hit the start button 2 or 3 times before it turned the engine over. I thought it was my starter clutch so I ordered the parts. The next oil change (before I changed the starter parts) I went back to dino oil and the problem disappeared....very strange.
 

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A Class III Synthetic you should try !!!

Hey Everyone,
I've researched this for over 40 hours...
Bob The Oil Guy and Vulcan Gadgets just to name a couple and countless others...
I've read scientific papers as well as information from folks like us who sent their oil in for analysis...
The whole debate about what is truly synthetic or isn't, over and over again...

Bottom line is if you don't have the time, or the inclination to do this for yourself...

I switched to Valvoline MOTORCYCLE Synthetic 4T 10w-40 racing oil in my 2005 1600 Classic and my shifting improved dramatically !!!
IMMEDIATELY !!!
1st to 2nd is as smooth as butta!!!
And after a few miles it got even better !!!
Change it as often as you like...
When you feel your shifting isn't as smooth as you remember...
Time to Change It !!!

HIGHLY Recommended and...
Available at yer local Wally World for $6.67 per quart...

I'm telling you Boys and Girls...
The folks in Ashland got this one right !!!


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Full-Synthetic-10W-40-Motorcycle-Oil-1-Quart/16777818


Let'er Buck,
Seven O'Nine !!!
Luckymann77
:grin2:
 

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Btom, you are right on. An easy way to know if you’re buying a real synthetic is to look on the label. It should read “100% synthetic “ as opposed to “full synthetic” which is modified conventional oil.
 

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Hey Everyone,
I've researched this for over 40 hours...
Bob The Oil Guy and Vulcan Gadgets just to name a couple and countless others...
I've read scientific papers as well as information from folks like us who sent their oil in for analysis...
The whole debate about what is truly synthetic or isn't, over and over again...

Bottom line is if you don't have the time, or the inclination to do this for yourself...

I switched to Valvoline MOTORCYCLE Synthetic 4T 10w-40 racing oil in my 2005 1600 Classic and my shifting improved dramatically !!!
IMMEDIATELY !!!
1st to 2nd is as smooth as butta!!!
And after a few miles it got even better !!!
Change it as often as you like...
When you feel your shifting isn't as smooth as you remember...
Time to Change It !!!

HIGHLY Recommended and...
Available at yer local Wally World for $6.67 per quart...

I'm telling you Boys and Girls...
The folks in Ashland got this one right !!!


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Full-Synthetic-10W-40-Motorcycle-Oil-1-Quart/16777818


Let'er Buck,
Seven O'Nine !!!
Luckymann77
:grin2:
Been using valv f/syth 10-40 for bout 8 years,in my 9,now in my Nad,Not One complaint,Happy bike,Happy life:wink2:
 

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Went to full Synthetic on my 9 and noticed smooth shifting out the gate.
 

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100% synthetic only in my 1700 Nomad. When performance faltered, time for a new air filter. Went to k&n 5x the airflow & much improved throttle response, performance and mileage. Tried Mobile 1 last oil change - shifted ok, but mileage dropped. I figured ok for winter. Lately, 4000 miles later it was shifting hard & mileage dropped. Changed oil back to royal purple cycle max and k&n oil filter, immediate smooth shifting, better performance and best mileage yet. Only down side is 17 bucks a quart. K&N air filter last 5x longer and can be cleaned & reused - much better than a new stock filter each year. I run about 8000 miles a year. What a great bike.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Mobil One V-twin 20w50 does NOT state JASO, JAOS MA or JASO MA2 compliant...
And is NOT listed as a 4T racing oil...


Reference Mobil 1 website:
https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/product-faqs/product-faqs?By+product+type=Motorcycle+oils&By+brand=Mobil+1&View=20&Page=1


This concerns me due to the fact that they list their Mobil 1 10w40 4T Racing oil SPECIFICALLY as being totally JASO compliant...


From what I can glean from this is that if anyone is using Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 in anything but a bike with a dry sump, AKA Harley...
You are using the INCORRECT OIL!!!
Apparently it isn't suitable for a WET CLUTCH !!!
Or at least not tested as such...
And not recommended as such according to their own information...
Although they dance around the wording quite a bit...


https://www.mobil.com/english-au/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-1-v-twin-20w50


I have heard and read nothing but good about Mobil 1 4T Racing 10w40...
However, Vulcans or any other V-Twin bike that utilizes a WET clutch IMHO, should stay away from Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50...


Let'er Buck,
Seven O'Nine !!!
Luckymann77
 
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