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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody here ever tried running with the stock header and just straight pipes or no pipes at all? I know it would be loud as hell, but how did it work? Poncho runs a stock header with glass packs, but they don't look like the perforated core type, more likely the louvered core type, which actually offer a fair amount of back-pressure. There are the freedom pipes, which look (and sound) like straight through drag pipes, but I think they have removable cores. Anybody got those with the cores out? I'm wondering if I'm going to need to go to a power commander for sure if I run straight drag pipes off the stock header. My experience is mostly with carbed bikes, and I'll always rejet going from a stock exhaust to drag pipes, so my hunch is that a FI "rejet" with a power commander will be necessary, but I know that there are people here who have already done some work on these bikes and I'd really appreciate hearing your experience. Thanks in advance!
 

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You will need some type of fuel management with straight drags... in my opinion, you at the very least need to run lolipops. The further up the pipe you can get them the better... me personally? After building a performance oriented motor, if you care about performance at all, I would leave baffles in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Drags

Yes, that's pretty much what I thought. Thanks for confirming it. I'll probably run glasspacks like Poncho's on the stock header. I like the simplicity of that setup, and he's running without a PC. The other possibility is to run the two pipes of the stock header together into one and then through a 2 1/4" glasspack.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Yes, that's pretty much what I thought. Thanks for confirming it. I'll probably run glasspacks like Poncho's on the stock header. I like the simplicity of that setup, and he's running without a PC. The other possibility is to run the two pipes of the stock header together into one and then through a 2 1/4" glasspack.
doomie, don't scrabble aroun. git er dun. Cost ya 50bux tops. You don't got stok headers? There's fellers here can't give em away. Post a note in this section where the action is. Not over where them cheapskates are trying to milk it for bucks.
2x glass pax 1.75" auto zone. Keep it simple. poncho

That 2n1 sounds nasty but won't work well as you will lose tremendous bak pressure wen you open the pipe that much. Straight drags work only because they honor the header size full length. It's much like tuning a instrument, exhaust gases must flow at high velocity and bak pressure, you lose both wen you expand the area of the pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dun!

Already got the glass packs and exhaust wrap on order! ( I order everything - just hate shopping. Let them bring it to me.)

Picked up a stock header on E-bay - tried asking here but got no response and then my post got moved (where to?). Guess it was deemed inappropriate. Oh well.

Your setup has to be the simplest, lightest and cheapest way to go, and that in itself makes it very aesthetically pleasing to me.

I just have to put a little jog in the front pipe to raise it up a bit so it will clear my rear foot peg. Also been looking at the pics you posted trying to figure out how you're supporting them.

The 2-into-1 pipe would work great on an engine that could turn some rpm, but it would probably come on just as the Vulcan is signing off. I'm happy with the stock power anyway. I'm just looking to shave weight, but I don't want to reduce the engine's output, of course.

And you know, the stock pipes aren't really drag pipes. That crossover tube is pretty big, and gives a kind of 2-into-1-into-2 thing. Whatever. It works.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Plain or ruffles?

doomie, don't scrabble aroun. git er dun. Cost ya 50bux tops. You don't got stok headers? There's fellers here can't give em away. Post a note in this section where the action is. Not over where them cheapskates are trying to milk it for bucks.
2x glass pax 1.75" auto zone. Keep it simple. poncho

That 2n1 sounds nasty but won't work well as you will lose tremendous bak pressure wen you open the pipe that much. Straight drags work only because they honor the header size full length. It's much like tuning a instrument, exhaust gases must flow at high velocity and bak pressure, you lose both wen you expand the area of the pipe.
So I'm looking at the pics you have put up of your exhaust and I see that you tried two different types of glasspacks: one set is painted flat black and has the perforated core, the other set is red and has the louvered core. Should be some difference in flow on these. Which one worked better?
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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So I'm looking at the pics you have put up of your exhaust and I see that you tried two different types of glasspacks: one set is painted flat black and has the perforated core, the other set is red and has the louvered core. Should be some difference in flow on these. Which one worked better?
dooms, they both are cherry bomb brand. Both are red outa the box.

First are 2"ID x 24" long too big! They slide over the stok header about 4", so you lose that much plus it is not a good fit requires extensive fitment and hangers. I just slipped them on for looks and took them back.
Dos are 1.75"ID x 18" long just rite. Very snug fit, I beat them on with a rubber mallet. They fit so good I never even secured them further. They ran like this 20k miles b4 I had to cut a groove, pry open and beat them back off. This pair I painted my signature BBQ flat blak invisible paint.

I welded a piece of flat stok on the backside of the pair, drilled a hole lined up with thread on the frame, I put a long bolt, washers, spacer and secured it to the frame (pix later).
Rigid mount, the bolt snapped. I replaced it several times, same o snap. Too much vibration, needs a flexible rubber thingy absorb high frequency waves.

These things are lite and short and fit so tite, they never budged. I just left them hang out there by themselves. With the stok header and welded by pass, is a stout anchor. Ther is no issue with suspending these. Pix later, poncho
 

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