Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi...lets see if I have any luck with this topic...I have a 2000 Vulcan 1500E
( CVK40 ) single carb Classic...Recently install a set of Vance & Hines pipes...
Love them...Now I want to remove the stock air filter setup and replace it to
a simple air filter on the right side...Money is a issue...those high end intakes
are out the question...As long as the bike runs good...Thats fine...Surely others
have done this on a limited budget...The more details on back plate...mounting
...vacuum lines that needs to be block off...re-jetting and pilot screw...filters
that will fit stock parts...The more details the better...I look at the Gadget info
...A lot of great info...However, the prices for parts are a lot more since that
article was written and I didn't see much on what lines need to be capped off
and stuff...If you are willing to help out...please PM me and I will send you my
email address and phone number...Hopefully someone will be willing enough to
pull their filter cover off or whatever and take a few pictures of their setup...
like they say...a picture is worth a 1000 words...For some reason...pictures
really help with written instruction...As stated above...need to to be as cheap
as it can be done...not so cheap that it will harm the engine...OK...Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,146 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks...As stated in my post...Read it...a lot of great info...Some of the links
are no longer working and I'm trying to use as many stock parts as possible to
save money...Also, I may need to read it again...but it isn't to clear on what to
do with the lines...vacuum or others...and I was hoping others has come up with
their own version of this mod that save them some money on like the cover or
other things they got from a local parts store...Doesn't the crank vent need a filter
and what's the best vacuum lines (size) caps to use on the reed valve and any
little tips they would care to share...Later
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,146 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's what I want to do...but you need to block off vacuum lines and stuff...The air
enters under the tank...it isn't as simple as that...there is re-jetting also...I wish there
was a plug & play mod...Did you just put the filter from the left side on the right side
side or put a auto pod filter on the right side...I'm listening...please share more...thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,146 Posts
That's what I want to do...but you need to block off vacuum lines and stuff...The air
enters under the tank...it isn't as simple as that...there is re-jetting also...I wish there
was a plug & play mod...Did you just put the filter from the left side on the right side
side or put a auto pod filter on the right side...I'm listening...please share more...thanks
Actually, it is quite simple. There are no vacuum lines to block off. All you need do is plug the large tube that goes to the reed valves ( I used a large wire nut; some guys use marbles, which is why it's called "marbling") and connect the crank case breather tube to the intake. That's it.

I sprung for a Baron's kit, mounted it right to the carb. The backing plate has a nipple for the crank case tube. I cut out the crossover tube and got rid of the left side filter altogether. Leave the underframe air box where it is. It won't be doing anything, but it helps keep everything else in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks...as soon as this deep freeze breaks and rolls out and it gets above 50 or so I'm
going to get on this...need to pick up a filter and jets...I think advanced auto has the K&N
8 1/2" filter and the local Harley or bike shops should have the jets...thinking 46/48 pilot
and 165/170 main...i think I have some shims for the needle if needed...should put me in
the ball park...i rather go a little bigger on the jets...that way I won't have to turn the pilot screw out to 3 turns or more...open to hear what others used for jetting...PatC can
you help me with this " Leave the underframe air box where it is. It won't be doing anything, but it helps keep everything else in place. " whats the underframe air box ? I
don't recall seeing it when I had the tank off...I'm assuming its what that plastic piece on the left side that you put up into the frame area and the backing plate as well...why
not remove it all...I think I'm going to cap off the reed valves at the reed valves at the
engine with big vacuum caps and clamps...hows that sound...that way I can remove the
hoses and that air valve...thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,146 Posts
PatC can
you help me with this " Leave the underframe air box where it is. It won't be doing anything, but it helps keep everything else in place. " whats the underframe air box ? I
don't recall seeing it when I had the tank off...I'm assuming its what that plastic piece on the left side that you put up into the frame area and the backing plate as well...why
not remove it all...I think I'm going to cap off the reed valves at the reed valves at the
engine with big vacuum caps and clamps...hows that sound...that way I can remove the
hoses and that air valve...thanks

http://www.motosport.com/cruiser/oem-parts/kawasaki/1998/vulcan-1500-classic-_-vn1500e/air-cleaner
Part 11011
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
I would try a 46 with 165 with everything else on the carb stock. Pilot screw 2 and 1/4 turns out. If its hard to start in this cold weather with full choke applied thats a sign you need to turn out pilot screw a little more. That's been the jetting combo for most on vroc anyway. Worked great on my old setup too. A dyno would likely reveal a slightly lean midrange with that setup but it will pull hard and give nice fuel mileage and run fine. Some use the dynojet needle or a 48 to richen midrange. I wouldn't bother.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,146 Posts
I would try a 46 with 165 with everything else on the carb stock. Pilot screw 2 and 1/4 turns out. If its hard to start in this cold weather with full choke applied thats a sign you need to turn out pilot screw a little more. That's been the jetting combo for most on vroc anyway. Worked great on my old setup too. A dyno would likely reveal a slightly lean midrange with that setup but it will pull hard and give nice fuel mileage and run fine. Some use the dynojet needle or a 48 to richen midrange. I wouldn't bother.
Just be aware that different manufacturers use different jet numbering. For instance, a stock Keihin CVK 40 main jet is a 138. The equivalent Dynojet is a 128. A Mikuni equivalent is a 120. Thus, if you go with a Dynojet 160, that's a Keihin 178, WAY too big.

I went with a Dynojet 140, which is a 152 in Keihin. Where I live at 2300 hundred feet with lots of changing mountain elevations and an average of 70-something degrees and midrange humidity, that's plenty big. At lower elevations a larger main my be called for, but one size does not fit all. Jetting depends on where you live, how you ride, and whether you're after mileage or more on the performance side. It also depends on the individual bike.

 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top